UKC

Hi All,

I am moving for work to the area around Perth, Scotland (within 40 mins travel).
The most pertinent question being, where can I train. It seems I am looking at The Peak in Stirling, Avertical in Dundee or Ratho in Edinburgh.

So first off, are any of these any good, or should they be avoided?

Second, any general advice on location in terms of indoor walls, biking, other training or clubs, and access before after work (i.e. rush hour through Edinburgh?!)?

*No mention of outdoor, as willing to travel much further for it.

In reply to Stuart_Burbidge:

There is a shiny new wall opening very soon in Perth. All the others you mention are all worth the odd visit too from time to time. The peak is a smaller wall and there are no overhangs, but we do our best with route setting etc to keep things interesting. Ratho is best avoided until summer! Dundee is pretty good, and if you can be bothered with the trek down from Perth then Glasgow climbing centre is also well worth the trip.

In reply to Stuart_Burbidge:

Like the OP said, great new wall at Perth College opening end of third week of January: https://www.facebook.com/dreamclimbingwalls/posts/1309200109118863?qsefr=1

In reply to Stuart_Burbidge:
Don't know about the new wall in Perth.

Avertical World in Dundee is a good 'converted church'. Compared to GCC there's a lot more bouldering but less roped climbing. It's the easiest drive of the centres outside Perth.

The Peak is a few walls in a corner of a sports centre - much smaller.

Ratho is huge, world class for roped climbing, not bad for bouldering and has arguably the best setters in Scotland. The setting and frequent updates make up for lack of bouldering area - still far more than GCC / The Peak, maybe a bit less than Avertical world. Ratho used to be freezing in winter but the roof is fixed now, it has brilliant new lighting and its a fairly mild winter so actually not bad at the moment.

Can't see any reason to go to The Peak or GCC when Avertical World is closer. Ratho is in a different class, but further and if you hit it at the wrong time on a weekday the traffic between the bridge and Ratho can be terrible. TCA in Glasgow should be on the list for occasional visits if bouldering is your thing.

In reply to tom_in_edinburgh:

I think your very accurate reply pretty much wraps up this thread!

In reply to Stuart_Burbidge:

Not quite Fraser.

Glasgow is an hour from Perth, unless in rush hour, so your 'within 40 mins,' is quite a wide area, is it somewhere you have in mind, or do you have a choice? Stirling and Dundee are both within that. Ratho isn't in Edinburgh, but south of the m8 and is a pain in the neck to get to from north, especially during rush hour, when the m8 becomes a traffic jam.

Dunkeld is close to Perth and has trad, sport and drytooling, so it depends on your poison.

In reply to jonnie3430:

Fair point, I missed the 40 minute part somehow. Is there still dry tooling available at Dunkeld? I thought last year's attempt to introduce it there was squashed on pretty fast, quite rightly imo.

In reply to Fraser:

the dry tooling isn't actually at Polney crag, its a little further east at Birnam/newtyle quarry

https://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Newtyle_Quarry

In reply to drunken monkey:

Yeah that's the venue I was thinking about, but I thought it was being implied that tooling was available (still) at Dunkeld / Cave Crag

In reply to Fraser:

I think that would upset quite a few folk. Certainly never seen anyone tooling at the main crags (thankfully)

In reply to Fraser:

No implication from me that drytooling is anywhere other than newtyle quarry at dunkeld.

In reply to jonnie3430:

Okay, my inference then, but Newtyle is usually knows as Birnam, not Dunkeld. Some plonkers tried tooling at Dunkeld last year, just down the hill from Upper Cave Crag. That was the venue I thought you were saying was still 'toolable'.

So basically we both agree: for tooling Newtyle/Birnam - yes, Dunkeld-no.

In reply to Fraser:

Pedant. Birnam is on the other side of the river, you go through dunkeld to get to Newtyle!

In reply to jonnie3430:

I know it is, but it's still known as Birnam, not Dunkeld.

Whatever - it's no biggie either way.

In reply to girlymonkey:


Ratho is fine in the winter. Awesome I'm fact. Just warm up and wrap up on cold days.

In reply to Robert Durran:

I think it depends a lot person to person Personally, I can't afford to go to Ratho so it makes little difference, but it is not a place I would climb in winter even if I could. Likewise, the Peak would not be my summer venue of choice! (I do some work there, so have no choice, but wouldn't do summer in there if I did have a choice!). We are lucky to have so many to choose from and everyone can find something that suits them

In reply to jonnie3430:
Within 40 mins of Perth is where I need to be based for work. Driving for climbing is out from that location, where ever I end up.

From the replys (thankyou everyone, massively helpful), I am thinking to stick with a base near Perth; close to work and ability to easily access all mentioned walls (including the strange dry tooling tangent - Not Dunkeld), while waiting for the Perth wall to come about.

At least that sounds like a plan for now.

In reply to girlymonkey:

That Perth wall looks fantastic!!

In reply to Stuart_Burbidge:
Welcome to ukc, everything takes a tangent.

I think you're right to stay as close to Perth as you can, Dundee is only a short trip up the road till the Perth wall opens and you are in a great place for getting north once the weather improves (if you haven't figured it out, Scotland is world famous for winter climbing and the summer trad, especially early season is outstanding.)

To find partners or even accommodation, post on here, or look up all the climbers Facebook pages for the town's local to you. Enjoy.

And it is dunkeld, don't listen to the twazock. Just don't drytool anywhere but Newtyle quarry.