UKC

New Avon Gorge guidebook

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 BStar 31 Jan 2017
No match for crag id:46

New climbers club guide to Avon Gorge is now out... So far it look like a great book (well done Martin). The 2004 guide did need updating and it is good to see something more substantial than the select guidebook for the South West.

So as always, any discussion points about the guide?

Dexter (VS 4b) has been given VS 4b... compared to S 4a in 2004 (and I'm sure there are plenty of people who call it VD too!) I'd certainly agree with the new grade, I jumped on it a few years back when I was starting out and thought it was much harder than S, it's HS4b on rockfax which doesn't really inform you enough about the long scary (for the grade) run out blank slab!

The arete is now a Severe... which with the polish it could be heading that way

Anyone else spotted anything interesting?
 Bobling 31 Jan 2017
In reply to BStar:

Crikey this one flew under the radar for me. That old Brown book emblazoned simply with the legend "AVON" is now obsolete, I feel kind of sad....but also can't wait to get my hands on the new one!
 Angrypenguin 31 Jan 2017
In reply to BStar:

Overall it seems an excellent guide. I think it is fitting it receives a guide of its own considering the long history and recent development from the efforts of Climb Bristol group and others.

That end of main wall has seen a few adjectival grades increased, particularly Central Buttress. I those routes were just terrifying because that is the "Avon style"! Mike's Mistake (E2 5b) felt good value for E2 the other day with the seepage at the top mind.

The photo topos are excellent. Clearly much trickier in Leigh Woods due to the confined spaces but even those are pretty good. My only complaint would be that in some of the colour images the contrast seems a bit high, the dark bits are really quite dark.
 Martin Hore 31 Jan 2017
In reply to Angrypenguin:

Mike's Mistake (E2 5b) felt good value for E2 the other day with the seepage at the top mind.

No wonder I found it hard at VS in 1975...............

Martin
 Mark Kemball 31 Jan 2017
In reply to Angrypenguin:


> That end of main wall has seen a few adjectival grades increased, particularly Central Buttress. I those routes were just terrifying because that is the "Avon style"! Mike's Mistake (E2 5b) felt good value for E2 the other day with the seepage at the top mind.

VS in my 1972 Ed Drummond guide! Not that I've ever climbed it.

 Angrypenguin 31 Jan 2017
In reply to Mark Kemball:

The guide does say it lost some holds in the 80's though I'm not sure that makes up the whole difference!
 Kevster 31 Jan 2017
In reply to Mark Kemball:

I think it has a bolt o two in it now as well?
though reliable pegs may also have been common back then too.
I like Avon, I'll look forward to leafing through the book.
In reply to BStar: My copy hasn't arrived yet, although it was on pre-order so I imagine it will be here imminently.

Look forward to seeing it.

abseil 01 Feb 2017
In reply to Angrypenguin:

> The guide does say it lost some holds in the 80's though I'm not sure that makes up the whole difference!

I did it a couple of times in the 60s [and not since] when it seemed right at VS. It lost a large crucial block and I think other holds too.
 Rob Morgan 01 Feb 2017
In reply to BStar:

I'd be curious to know if Hell Gates has changed at all? A hold broke off on the 2nd pitch.
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In reply to The Ex-Engineer: It has now arrived in today's post!

Generally, it's really inspirational. It will certainly make things a lot easier in terms of working out where everything is

The double page photos at the start of each chapter are really good and accurately portray the unique ambience of Avon. Unfortunately, the single page portrait format photos are slightly underwhelming. Far too many of them are rather similar. There are only so many times that you can look at a climber in the centre of wide expanse of rock before getting a feeling of deja vu...

The topos are good and generally up to scratch. They compare well enough with the latest Rockfax (South Wales Sport Climbs) but are not quite as consistently good as Niall Grimes' superb efforts in Peak Limestone North.

The entire book in terms of photos and topos seems slightly on the dark side. This is very noticeable when compared side by side with Peak Limestone North.

The access maps are really good and there is a comprehensive set of panoramas to help locate crags. However I can't help but think printing the crag pictures much largerk - either sideways on a single page or across a double page like the one for The Unknown Area through to The New Quarry would have helped.

The inclusion of a crag selector table is excellent but the lack of a graded list or any ticklists is slightly disappointing and a real missed opportunity. The "crag character" table and overview map are also good but the layout is dreadful as these absolutely need to be overleaf from the crag selector table and not buried 25 pages away.

The omission of grades and stars from the index is also dissappointing.

The chapter headings are colour coded but frankly don't work. The edge bleed photos just mess things up and find the start to chapters is not nearly as easy as it could be in a modern guidebook.

Anyway not much more I can really add as the only thing that matters is whether it does the job at the crag and I won't know that for a good while.
pasbury 01 Feb 2017
In reply to BStar:

Dexter at VS 4b is reasonable - maybe VS 4a. A good example of sandbagging this. I led Dexter after a long lay off, having just moved to Bristol, not knowing the gorge climbs, and scared my self quite a lot.
 drpetermorgan 02 Feb 2017
In reply to BStar:

In the 60's and 70's (and as described in Ed Drummond's guidebook) , the second pitch of Mike's Mistake traversed out right from the orange block then went up to the horizontal break whence it traversed back left to above what is now the crux. ( there was a peg to protect the return) Drummond gave this 4b which seemed about right then. It was nice bit of steady Morning Slab climbing and found the easiest way up this bit of rock. I did the now described direct variant in the late nineties and found it polished and rather unpleasant. it seems a pity that this original way of doing the crux is nowhere described any longer as an alternative and more elegant way of doing it.
 sheelba 02 Feb 2017
In reply to BStar:

Mike's mistake was my first proper E1 and it didn't feel particularly hard. I always found the routes in the gorge generally low in the grade, particularly on morning slab, but I guess I was very used to them and they suited my style. The VS's and below felt pretty slabby and cruxy. The HVS's were a big step up for someone as weak and puny as me given the fact that you actually got pumped on them.
 alam_kouh 03 Feb 2017
In reply to Martin Hore:

> Mike's Mistake (E2 5b) felt good value for E2 the other day with the seepage at the top mind.

> No wonder I found it hard at VS in 1975...............

> Martin

And still VS in 1961.

Vic
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

Good feedback there Ex-Engineer, some poignant observations too.

I've just received a copy through the post for review, only had a quick scan through so far but will have a better look at through over the weekend.

One thought, following on from the absence of any tick-lists, is that we get some ideas together for us to include within either the review itself or a separate destination articles - suggestions welcome.



In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

That's a very sensible suggestion Rob. There are several current UKC ticklists including;
Rockfax select routes https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?sort=gr&id=262
The Main Wall Mal Challenge https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?sort=gr&id=1263

Probably what would be most useful is a list highlighting the best routes that are NOT in either Rockfax West Country Climbs or the CC SW Climbs Vol 1.
 Mike Highbury 06 Feb 2017
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:
> Good feedback there Ex-Engineer, some poignant observations too...

OK, here's my less generous one. The book is too large and it's far too heavy. Let's hope that the CC does not adopt this style for locations where it's useful to carry the guidebook on a route.
Post edited at 16:21
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 bpmclimb 06 Feb 2017
In reply to Mike Highbury:

> OK, here's my less generous one. The book is too large and it's far too heavy. Let's hope that the CC does not adopt this style for locations where it's useful to carry the guidebook on a route.



I wouldn't call that a style, exactly, although the things which influence size and weight do include some stylistic choices.

In order to cut down on size and weight, what changes would you suggest? For example:

Fewer words per route (i.e. less thorough route descriptions)
Fewer routes (i.e. a non-definitive book)
Fewer action photos (or none)
Fewer topos (or none)
Smaller print
Paring down (or removal) of intro/ecology/FA info/historical/indexes.
 Dave 06 Feb 2017
In reply to BStar:
Dexter (VS 4b) has been given VS 4b... compared to S 4a in 2004 (and I'm sure there are plenty of people who call it VD too!)

Blimey... I just checked my Steve Monks guidebook with notes. It was VD 3c in that and I soloed it in 1987, a year after I started climbing, and wrote a note to self 'Don't do it again!'
 stoneback 06 Feb 2017
In reply to Mike Highbury:

> OK, here's my less generous one. The book is too large and it's far too heavy. Let's hope that the CC does not adopt this style for locations where it's useful to carry the guidebook on a route.

You're right of course, it does make it less practical for carrying up a route, as is the way with some rockfax guides, and others. Personally I'd much rather have it this way round and have the book as a piece of literature. I enjoy the additional info found in the larger books and I'm sure I'm not alone in spending rather a lot of time flicking through these lovely colourful books getting psyched about routes and venues (most of which I'll never climb or visit)

If I wanted to take some route info up - say a multi pitch route at Avon, I'd photocopy the page or take my old little pocket sized one.
In reply to Mike Highbury: All those I climb with rarely, if ever, carry a guidebook with them on a route any more.

We all carry smartphones, so can photograph the topo and descriptions before setting off. I just assumed everyone else also took advantage of living in the 21st century.

That said, for winter climbing, I did disassemble and laminate an entire copy of Scottish Winter Climbs. I now only ever need to take a handful of pages with me even if unsure of what route we'll actually climb.
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 Mike Highbury 07 Feb 2017
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
> All those I climb with rarely, if ever, carry a guidebook with them on a route any more.We all carry smartphones, so can photograph the topo and descriptions before setting off. I just assumed everyone else also took advantage of living in the 21st century.

I must say that, when catching a fall, I'd sooner drop the guidebook that I was reading than my phone.

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In reply to Mike Highbury:

> OK, here's my less generous one. The book is too large and it's far too heavy. Let's hope that the CC does not adopt this style for locations where it's useful to carry the guidebook on a route.

Hi Mike,

I think the matter of guidebook size is a topic that will inevitably divide people - you either like it or you don't. As things happen I like it, particularly with the guide in question.

For somewhere like Avon I see the size/format is perfectly acceptable, being that virtually all of the crags are roadside and few are longer than 3 pitches; as such, having the larger/clearer topos makes finding (and hopefully climbing) the routes a lot easier and hassle-free.

That said, I can understand the desire for a smaller guide in mountain areas and sea cliffs, but even then I - like the Ex-Engineer - take a photo of the pages on my camera (not my phone) which I carry with me on a lanyard so it's impossible to drop.
In reply to alam_kouh:

> And still VS in 1961.Vic

[Mike's Mistake] And still VS 4b in 1972 - the Drummond guide. I didn't do it – partly because it was a death route - but I did do nearby Reveille which was also VS 4b and felt about right for the grade, though it was perhaps a little harsh at 4b, probably 4c. Also, the guidebook measured a mere 4 1/2 x 6 1/4 x 1/4 inches and weighed just a few ounces.

Dexter was V Diff and The Arete Diff.
Post edited at 08:01
 GrahamD 07 Feb 2017
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

> I just assumed everyone else also took advantage of living in the 21st century.

Don't assume that. Not everyone has a smart phone and plenty more people wouldn't risk climbing with one.
In reply to BStar: Had a look through it yesterday and it has made me want to visit the area again after driving past it for years - and that's one of the things a guidebook must do.

The front cover displays a very weird choice of shot, which is not at all representative of the area. From looking at the picture alone it's impossible to say where the guide is for.

 GridNorth 07 Feb 2017
In reply to Frank the Husky:

Interesting, it just goes to show. I thought the route on the front was instantly recognisable and the route itself very representative.

Al
 Simon Caldwell 07 Feb 2017
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

> We all carry smartphones

Some of us don't even own one...
 duncan 07 Feb 2017
In reply to BStar:

Review on the other channel: https://tinyurl.com/zrx28jd
In reply to GridNorth: I guess if you know the area it certainly is those things but for me, it could have been any limestone quarry. Nothing about it says "Avon Gorge". The previous guide with Lucy Creamer on the front was unmistakable. It won't stop people buying it nor will it detract from the inner quality.

 GridNorth 07 Feb 2017
In reply to Frank the Husky:

Point taken

Al
 GridNorth 07 Feb 2017
In reply to Bobling:

I think it's Pink Wall Traverse.

Al
 Bobling 07 Feb 2017
In reply to GridNorth:

Thanks!

I found the answer in the UKB decription line 1 so binned my question but you'd already got back to me.

I was terrified that it was going to be Unknown Wall as the photo looks nails and that's on my tick list!
 Mike Highbury 07 Feb 2017
In reply to duncan: Excellent, thanks.

In reply to GridNorth:

> I think it's Pink Wall Traverse.Al

If it is PWT (and if you tip it back, it looks v like it), it's highly misleading because, stupendous as PWT is, the picture makes Avon Gorge, or some hitherto undiscovered part of it?, overhang in the manner of Kilnsey. The essence of virtually all the routes at Avon is that it's a kind of very steep balance climbing. On the steeper routes you pull over a little overlap then you're more or less in balance again, typically in a wide-bridged position, and then you teeter quite a long way up to the next overlap, and so on.
 GridNorth 07 Feb 2017
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Yes I think there may have been a little artistic licence applied there. I can't for the life of me workout what the belayer is doing !

Al
 Cheese Monkey 07 Feb 2017
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Yes teeter is certainly the word. Although some days when I'm going well it feels like a walk. Other days its a jibber fest.

Looking forward to getting my hands on a copy
 JamieAyres 08 Feb 2017
In reply to GridNorth:

The belayer is lying on their back on the Aerodrome. Whenever I've done that traverse, it's felt as overhanging as that photo makes it look! I wonder when the pegs were last renewed?
 d_b 08 Feb 2017
In reply to BStar:

I was unexpectedly given a copy this morning. Looks good so far, and the leigh woods section looks very interesting.
 The Ivanator 08 Feb 2017
In reply to BStar:

The guide is on my birthday wishlist (early March), just curious is the Blaise Castle Gorge included?
 d_b 08 Feb 2017
In reply to The Ivanator:

It doesn't seem to be. You will need to hang on to your old book for a little longer.
 GridNorth 08 Feb 2017
In reply to The Ivanator:

> The guide is on my birthday wishlist (early March), just curious is the Blaise Castle Gorge included?

No. Other outlying areas have also been dropped so it's purely the Avon Gorge.

Al
 Tom F Harding 08 Feb 2017
In reply to BStar:

We wait patiently for Pylon Kings medip-opus!
In reply to Tom F Harding:

Funnily enough I just had a check on the CC Website to see if there was any information about a guide to the surrounding area (Mendips, Portishead, Brean, Twym Valley etc...) but couldn't find anything, do you know any more Tom?

Obvioulsy there's the info in South West Climbs Volume 1 + West Country Climbs, but I was thinking along a definitive line.
 Fatclimber 08 Feb 2017
In reply to The Ivanator:

A copy of this (and the new Dartmoor guide) somehow fell into my shopping basket this weekend. Will bring it with me next time we meet up, so you can have a butchers.

Regards

Steve
In reply to Fatclimber:

> A copy of this (and the new Dartmoor guide) somehow fell into my shopping basket this weekend.

Something very similar happens to me every time I walk into an outdoor shop
 The Ivanator 08 Feb 2017
In reply to Fatclimber:

Hi Steve, I've already succumbed to the Dartmoor guide, but a sneak preview of the Avon book would be good. Hope you had a good Peak weekend.

In reply to Rob Greenwood:
I know that there is a Mendip comprehensive guide in the pipeline (Brean, Goblin, Portishead, Fairy Cave etc. just no Cheddar or Avon), but it does seem to have mysteriously disappeared from the CC "in preparation" page. Pylon King is the main author and I think the forthcoming Wye Sport guide has probably been more of a focus recently. The Mendip guide was (I think) loosely scheduled for 2017/18, but I reckon it will be next year at the earliest.
In reply to The Ivanator:

Brill, thanks for the update - that's good to know.
 Tom F Harding 09 Feb 2017
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Sorry Rob not sure. All I have heard is that it will follow on from the Avon guide and be released in 2016.... We wait.
 The Ivanator 09 Feb 2017
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:
Full update from Mark (Pylon King) on forthcoming guides he sent me via email. The reason it has gone from the CC guides in preparation page is because Mark is now publishing independently as "Great Western Rock":

"As well as the Wye valley Sport book I am also publishing a definitive Bristol area book at the same time in the spring this year. This book will cover Goblin Combe, Portishead Quarry and Trym Valley etc. There's also the Frome Valley Sandstone book that will be out the same time.
In spring 2018 there will be a Mendips book covering everything from Brean to Vallis Vale but obviously not including Cheddar.
There will also be a website going live full of information.
Look out for Great Western Rock "

Ivan
Post edited at 10:26
 Ollie Keynes 11 Feb 2017
In reply to BStar:

V grades.. ugh.
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