UKC

On the cover, is this the Vicar in the NC? That has a reputation as a stiff VII,8. Does Andy do much winter? I haven't ever read any of his books. I don't really read climbing books.

In reply to French Erick:

Pretty sure it is. Might not be him though?

In reply to French Erick:

Considering his knowledge about crampons and other winter gear questions on his blog I bet he's done his fair share of winter climbing. Wasn't his climb of the Troll Wall in winter?

In reply to TheFasting:


I think it was a pure artificial climb up a slightly overhanging wall near the bottom of the Troll Wall – I don't think any ice was involved. (But I could be wrong...)

In reply to French Erick:


What a strange post. What do you think the book is about? Sport climbing on Thailand? Easy enough to look up a synopsis online even if you don't want to buy the book.

In reply to Scotch Bingington:


Andy K isn't really known for Scottish winter exploits so it seems like a reasonable enough question to me.

In reply to DaveHK:


Not to me it doesn't - unless you don't bother to do even the most basic of research. I stand by my comment.

In reply to DaveHK:

Well, no. He is however known for all kinds of incredibly challenging winter routes in Patagonia and the Alps among others, which might make it reasonable to assume he can winter climb fairly well.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=640338

In this thread, fourth post or so, he states that he has climbed Scottish 8.

In reply to Scotch Bingington:

I assume the book is about climbing...
May be strange to you. I had never clocked him as a winter climber. That he is hard as nails is pretty much the extent of my knowledge of AK. As stated in my own post, I don't read climbing literature as it doesn't interest me.
It's a great photo of the Vicar and well done to him if he climbed that!

In reply to French Erick:

From memory, he talks briefly in the book about doing a little Scottish mixed climbing, e.g. in the Norries. He says he found it more to his strengths than rock climbing, and when doing a route in the Alps(?) is surprised when his partner struggles to lead something around tech 6. I imagine much of his Alpine or Patagonian stuff has had its fair share of tricky mixed climbing...

In reply to French Erick:

I'm pretty sure I've read pieces by him about leads of White Magic and Prore - certainly not punter routes.

In reply to French Erick:

The photo was taken by AK and is of Ian Parnell climbing "The Vicar".

In reply to Alastair MacSween:


An actual answer to the question. There's a novelty!

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

I think it was only rock, but it's still winter mountaineering isn't it? Or do you guys use a different definition

In reply to Scotch Bingington:

He's asking what climb the cover photo is. You're bitching out the OP as if he's asking what the book is about?

In reply to French Erick:
I haven't climbed with him in winter..........

Think he did a bit in the late 90's, there used to be a contingent from Sheffield, that I used to bump into frequently. My friend Dave Rudd used to travel up with that same group to climb with me.

My claim to fame, AK was giving a lecture in Tiso, Glasgow about winter/alpine climbing, etc. Then up popped a slide of me, sitting beneath Les Droites on Argientiere Glacier! I was also beneath him on Les Dru, when he repeated 'Cold Haul' route. Think we met him in The Office a few days later, some off his kit found it's way into our car, as I drove Dave back to Sheffield.

He also wrote a 'Scottish Winter' article for Climber, pic of him on White Magic.

Stuart

PS. Don't think he was as prolific as you.......!

In reply to Stuart the postie:

Just been directed to this one! Yes it's the vicar, and I led the 1st two pitches in 1 then Ian led the crux, so he get's the tick. The image was chosen by VG not me and the credit is clear that it's Ian climbing. I climbed quite a lot of VII's and one VIII (Prore) back when VIII was still hard enough to get people talking back in the pub (back then so was White Magic). Also climbed lots of ice (soloed up to French WI6). As an aside, and in my defence as nothing but a fat aid climber, my mixed climbing abilities saw my 1st alpine route a WA of the Frendo, then WA of NE Spur Driotes, then Dru couloir, followed by a W solo of Driotes NF (messner) which I'd say was non too shabby for my younger self. Also I' need to take Gordon to task about Troll route as being a "slightly overhanging wall near the bottom of the Troll Wall", having spent over a month on the Troll in winter and summer, Suser gjennom Harryland (18 pitch Scottish VII, E3 5b, A3) should be viewed a 'hard route ON the Troll wall', not a Troll footnote.

In reply to andy kirkpatrick:

Thanks for that definite answer Andy. I did not doubt your doings for a second and I quoted " that he is hard as nails is the extent of my knowledge of AK".
I really want to step-up my game and climb the Vicar but I fear it might spank me somehow. Nocando crack has always been the line on that buttress I wanted to do but I have been put off by it being described as a necky hard lead. Not being as hard as the likes of you I may well never try either!

Anyways, cheers for a proper definite answer. A rarity on our forum of nit-pickers and squabblers...that one is firmly put to rest.
Happy climbing.

In reply to French Erick:

Nocando Crack is only necky if it's icy, which it often is. Doing it under rime but otherwise dry conditions, you can lace it up. Jonathan Preston and I took some fair falls on earlier attempts, but we weren't strong enough to hang around and place gear. On the FFA, Brian Davison got 13 runners in the big pitch, and it's only something like 25m.

In reply to French Erick:

Erick, next time the conditions look good gimme a shout for the Vicar - most of my regular partners have already done it...