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Sport Climbing in Europe

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 Amyola 24 Feb 2017
Hello,

I'm thinking of a sport trip at the start of April. I would like a good range of sport climbs and grades, with lots of low level grades (5s and low 6s). I don't mind hiring a car, but I will be there for a couple of weeks so it would be good to have a range of crags to visit.

I've just got back from the Costa Blanca and that was brilliant, but it'd be good to explore somewhere new. Somewhere like the Orange House where other climbers stay, would be really good.


Thanks for all your help and advice.
 Kevster 24 Feb 2017
In reply to langirl:

El Chorro, olive branch is good, and normally full of climbers, is the first to spring to mind. Grade range, not so many in the lower grades, but that depends on you.
Orpiere, Buis Les Baronnes etc in France is good lower grade areas. But no hostel style accomodation.
Thailand.

 Sam Mayfield 24 Feb 2017
In reply to langirl:

I am not sure how many other climbers will be around but you could come over here to BG and help us setup Orange House number 2!

Sam Orange House
 john arran 24 Feb 2017
In reply to langirl:

Here in Ariège would tick all the climbing boxes very well indeed, with a big range of crags and loads of easier grade routes all within a very short drive. What's less easy here is picking up partners, as there simply aren't that many climbers about, so you'd be well advised to have partners already arranged. The upside of that though is that the crags are almost never busy and you'll very often find yourselves at a great crag and the only ones there.
 Rog Wilko 25 Feb 2017
In reply to langirl:
Haute Provence around Buis les Baronnies has a lot going for it. April should be good weather. There's a wide range of crags with plenty of stuff in the sub 6a grades. A car is useful.
Here are some useful links, but it's far from an exhaustive list.
Baume Rousse
Chaine du Grand Travers (Dentelles de Montmirail)
Aiguille de Buis
Ubrieux
Combe Obscure
Chaine de Gigondas (Dentelles de Montmirail)
Chaine du Clapis (Dentelles de Montmirail)
Saint Christophe (Dentelles de Montmirail)
The first two on the list are particularly good for 5s.
This place might be good for your needs, though I have no direct experience of it:
www.alauzon.com
Post edited at 12:45
In reply to langirl: It's a bit dated (2002) but it might be worth getting hold of a copy of Europe Sport Vertical which describes pretty much every sport venue in Europe.
Copies are currently available via Amazon Marketplace for £0.01 (plus £2.80 postage) - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Europe-Vertical-Complete-European-Climbing/dp/1873...
or try https://www.worldofbooks.com/europe-sport-vertical-the-complete-european-cl... if you're not a fan of Amazon.
 GridNorth 25 Feb 2017
In reply to langirl:

I've climbed sport extensively all over Europe but I can't think of anywhere that compares for the sheer quality and quantity of route on Kalymnos especially within the bounds of such a small geographic area. Masouri, the best base, is full of climbers in Spring and Autumn. I would highly recommend it.

Al
2
 flash13 25 Feb 2017
In reply to langirl:

Should get yourself over to kalymnos! i know someone who is going over on her own in early april who would be looking for a partner.
1
 john arran 25 Feb 2017
In reply to GridNorth:

> I've climbed sport extensively all over Europe but I can't think of anywhere that compares for the sheer quality and quantity of route on Kalymnos especially within the bounds of such a small geographic area.

I agree. We're going there again this Spring. Part of the problem with living in a great climbing area is that there are too many home and work distractions that stop you making as much of it as you would like, so it's good to get away to somewhere else with fantastic climbing but a lot fewer distractions!
 andyb211 26 Feb 2017
In reply to GridNorth:

And remember to belay properly when in the presence of irate French royalty and wear a gum shield!

Sorry Al, see you there in May??

Andy x

 GridNorth 26 Feb 2017
In reply to andyb211:

Hi Andy, no I'm booked for 18th April for 2 weeks.

Did you not know, he apologised and we are now best of mates. Just as well really I couldn't get away from him in October.

Al
In reply to langirl:

I agree - Kalymnos is very hard to beat and there are lots of places you can enquire about climbing partners. I can also recommend Majorca for great quality climbs at the right grade, although I don't know of any accommodation bases like The Orange House for meeting climbers.
OP Amyola 27 Feb 2017
In reply to Kevster:

Thanks for your help.

I think I might venture to France this time. The olive branch sounds like a good one to keep in mind for a trip when I have good head game!
OP Amyola 27 Feb 2017
In reply to Sam Mayfield:

Hello,

That would definitely be worth a visit! It might have to be later on in the year though! It should still have places to climb all summer though, right?
OP Amyola 27 Feb 2017
In reply to john arran:

Hello,

I had already had ariege recommended and I think it's won this time. Now to start finding somewhere to stay and the best April crags! Is the weather usually good by then?
OP Amyola 27 Feb 2017
In reply to Rog Wilko:

This is amazing! Thanks for all your help. There are just so many places to choose from!
OP Amyola 27 Feb 2017
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

Thanks for the suggestion. Sounds like quite a large book!
OP Amyola 27 Feb 2017
In reply to GridNorth:

That was where I was meant to be going. However flights don't seem to be direct until after easter. When I have to be back at work! So it'll have to be one for another time

Enjoy!
OP Amyola 27 Feb 2017
In reply to Pink Marshmallow:

I hadn't thought of majorca, thanks!
 john arran 28 Feb 2017
In reply to langirl:

> Hello,I had already had ariege recommended and I think it's won this time. Now to start finding somewhere to stay and the best April crags! Is the weather usually good by then?

The temperatures in April are usually really good for climbing. It's often quite variable at that time of year, as we may still get the occasional winter-pattern storm come through or a sudden heatwave. But by and large you should expect pretty nice climbing weather with mainly sunny days and only occasional rain that should clear after just a few hours.

As for accommodation, we may know somewhere nice ...
OP Amyola 01 Mar 2017
In reply to john arran:

I've emailed you to ask for prices....but you haven't replied! Fingers crossed I might gt a reply soon

Im very excited!
 john arran 01 Mar 2017
In reply to langirl:

> I've emailed you to ask for prices....but you haven't replied! Fingers crossed I might gt a reply soon Im very excited!

Give us a chance - you emailed after midnight!

Unfortunately our smallest apartment is booked for some of your stay but we'll see what we can do. Anne's the one who handles most of the bookings and she'll reply to your email very soon.
OP Amyola 01 Mar 2017
In reply to john arran:

Hello,

I sent a message on your Internet contact the page earlier than that. You emailed back very fast! I look forward to meeting you guys soon

 john arran 02 Mar 2017
In reply to Amyola:

Glad we managed to sort something out. See you here next month.

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