UKC

I'm starting this thread mostly so I can highlight the, for me, highly unusual experience of queuing for routes on Dovestone Tor on Sunday. Especially as it was pretty grim weather for the first part of the day, before brightening up in the afternoon.

Still, it goes to show, whatever one person can think is a good idea (It's a bank holiday weekend, lets go to Dovestone Tor as no one else will be bothered with the walk in), an intrepid team from CUMC can also think is a good idea.

Climbed the excellent 'Route 1' - confirming a climbing partner's hypothesis that Peak grades get stiffer the further you get from the road.

In reply to planetmarshall:

On each of the three times I've gone to Dovestones expecting a quiet crag, there has been a massive group there.
On Sunday we were going to go to Kinder North to "avoid the crowds" but when we got to the parking, there was a wind up and we were in a cloud....I expect that it brightened up and would possibly have been quite OK after the 1 hour walk in but we didn't fancy the risk and instead went to the "honeypot, insane to bother going on a summer weekend day let alone Bank Holiday weekend", Froggatt. At 10.15am there were 2 other cars parked there...

In reply to planetmarshall:

Only managed to get out on the Saturday morning. We were over at Buckstone How in Buttermere and had the whole place to ourselves. We could see a lot of folk still on Shepherds Crag on the drive out through the torrential rain.. That's what I can optimism!

In reply to planetmarshall:

Shepherds Crag - Donkeys Ears, Ardus, Eve & C.D.M
Black Crag - Troutdale "Piccadilly Circus" Pinnacle, Troutdale Pinnacle Direct & The Shroud

All very nice routes in a very nice setting. Shame about the monsoon on Monday but Saturday & Sunday truly made up for it.

In reply to planetmarshall:
Saturday we sacked off the idea of going over to Wales due to a very uncertain forecast. We ended up going to Cratcliffe where it drizzled. I'm a bit rubbish for most of the routes there, but we did an HS and a VS. Then we went to Robin Hood's Stride and did a couple more, short but knarly! After coffee we relocated to Stoney and Simon led Fe Fi Fo Fum, which was a good route. Went to my folks' place Sunday so Monday afternoon I rode 40 Kms mainly off road and 'climbed' Worcestershire Beacon, the highest of the Malverns, on my mountain bike. Bivvied on the top, rode back this morning, getting incredibly muddy in the process.

In reply to planetmarshall:

No queueing for me. No bank holiday either, but did manage to get out briefly yesterday to do the FA of one of the two remaining unclimbed lines on the crag behind our village that I've been equipping for quite a while. 30m or so, gently overhanging, very sustained and technical. Went at hardish 7c, which is only three grades harder than I expected when I bolted it! Only the last one left now - revised estimate is that it will be 8a. Can't wait.

In reply to planetmarshall:

Fontainebleau bouldering - it got a bit hot at times, but I've only been there before when the weathers a bit cold and damp. On this trip we were looking for shady venues, so went to a load of places I'd not been to before.

Highlight was getting round some 40ish problems on an entire AD (Orange) circuit in one day despite the heat (only missing one, but adding several 'bis' alternates)

In reply to john arran:

I should clarify that I didn't really queue - just that I was surprised to find anyone else on the crag at all.

In reply to planetmarshall:

We risked the drive to Wales and got a mix of stuff done at Tremadog. Got a couple extra days off beforehand too and managed to get really sunburnt on a 3 hour ascent of Cordon Bleu (HVS 5a), a fantastic introduction to the main cliff at Gogarth. Sorry to brag about time off in the week, but I have to get some rewards for working nights and weekends on an acute mental health ward...

In reply to TobyA:

>"Saturday we sacked off the idea of going over to Wales due to a very uncertain forecast..."

I was up in North Wales over the weekend, Friday was brilliant and we climbed a load on Idwal slabs and continuation walls, Saturday was better than we thought it would be, on and off really, so we got about 6 short routes done in the quarries, Sunday was ace at Holyhead where we got a load done on the mountain. Monday was rubbish but you should have chanced it if just for the Sunday.

In reply to planetmarshall:

Was in Somerset & on Sunday, climbed at Hurlstone Point, an experience I shall not repeat!

In reply to planetmarshall:

Headed up to mid wales to be rained on. Despite the weather I managed a few easy solos on Barmouth Slabs on Saturday, followed by backing off the HVS/E1.

Sunday involved a trip to Cyfwry, where all the routes we wanted to do were too wet to contemplate. After wasting ages looking for something suitable we decided to slither up a somewhat slimy "Pisa" and rescue the day.

Monday was just filthy so we had ashort walk and a look down some mines.

In reply to planetmarshall:

North Wales for the first time. Saturday on the slate, leading Seamstress and then doing a bunch of abseils into Twll Mawr. Sunday me and two friends tackled Grooved Arete on Tryfan as our first trad multi-pitch. Plenty of people on it, and we were definitely slow, so apologies to those caught behind us. Ended up being a 13 hour round trip from leaving the car to getting back to it.... Lessons will be learnt

In reply to rumblesan:

I have long had a plan to do GA or FPR siege style over a bank holiday weekend. With porters, intermediate camps, champagne, hemp rope and tweeds.

13 hours is fast!

In reply to planetmarshall:

Lots of routes really at the weekend, but the outstanding climb was Bow/Great combination at Cloggy on the Friday in superb conditions. Just couldn't be bettered!

In reply to planetmarshall:

Finally got to do The Needle on the Shelterstone, amazing route! Write up and some pictures here: http://www.mistymountainhop.net/2017/06/its-not-over-til-its-over-the-needl...

Dave

In reply to MrRiley:
That looks bloody brilliant. Bit hard for me though.

In reply to planetmarshall:

I climbed up on the bar stool at MBC bar after decking out on my first attempt, luckily someone caught the stool and steadied it for my second attempt!