/ NEWS: James McHaffie makes the first ascent of 'The Cumbrian Face' E8 7a

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UKC News - on 22 Jun 2017
Cloggy Cropped, 3 kbContinuing his theme of bold mountain routes protected by skyhooks, James McHaffie makes the first ascent of a The Cumbrian Face at Clogwyn D'ur Arddu

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Alun - on 22 Jun 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Amazing ascent and great write-up.

Minor correction: Clogwyn du'r arddu. Du = black.
In reply to Alun:

Noooooooo, you're right!!

You can't imagine how embarrassed I am by this, having lived in Wales for 10 years, knowing the correct spelling, and having more than 3 editions of the guidebook within 2.5m of where I was sitting when I wrote it; however, in a fit of trade-show fatigue clearly fluffed it...

Spelling aside I really enjoyed putting together this report, not least because I infrequently put together anything news related (that's Natalie + Nick's domain, but they're otherwise occupied currently), but also because Caff's insight and honesty is always quite refreshing - as is Dan's for that matter.

For those that haven't read Caff's blog on the FA of Moonlight Kingdom it's worth checking out: http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/moonrise-kingdom
lithos on 22 Jun 2017
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

> Noooooooo, you're right!!

> You can't imagine how embarrassed I am by this,

> For those that haven't read Caff's blog on the FA of Moonlight Kingdom it's worth checking out:

Moonlight ?
In reply to lithos:

I'll get my coat...
purplemonkeyelephant - on 22 Jun 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Did I read that right, he placed a piton on this route?
Coel Hellier - on 22 Jun 2017
In reply to purplemonkeyelephant:

> Did I read that right, he placed a piton on this route?

Sounds like a hand-placed piton, which is generally accepted.
Wood for Trees on 22 Jun 2017
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Nothing to add here, that was hillarious

Toerag - on 23 Jun 2017
In reply to Coel Hellier:

> Sounds like a hand-placed piton, which is generally accepted.

I'd have thought Dan would have pulled it out when he followed up if it were hand-placed. I think Caff's approach of leaving it in for the summer for other people to use is entirely sensible. Martin Crocker sometimes puts pegs in his routes (hammered) and removes them afterwards whilst mentioning the placement and peg needed in the route description. This results in a cliff without rotting fixed gear, yet little problems for subsequent ascentionists. If people place and remove pegs correctly the placement wears to take normal trad gear anyway.
Question for Caff - did you consider using a ballnut instead of a peg?
CurlyStevo - on 23 Jun 2017
In reply to Toerag:
Do you think a ballnut would go in to a "thin shallow knifeblade" slot? There isn't really much / any crossover between knifeblades and the smallest ballnut.
Post edited at 11:45
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purplemonkeyelephant - on 23 Jun 2017
In reply to Toerag:

> If people place and remove pegs correctly the placement wears to take normal trad gear anyway.

If we don't care about damaging the rock why not just stick a bolt in there?
Andy Peak 1 - on 23 Jun 2017
In reply to purplemonkeyelephant:

He hand placed trad gear, blade peg in trad route, non issue. If you think a bolt and a poor peg are the same thing then you need your head testing.
As for Damaging the rock it won't damage it any more than cleaning a nut placement.
Sean Kelly - on 24 Jun 2017
In reply to UKC News:

I'm not sure about this but I may actually have a photo of James making an ascent of this route. Looking across from Great/Bow, I thought the climber was on Troach, but I may be wrong. Colour of clothing looks the same. Photo was shot @ 15.22hrs on 26.05.17 if that helps Rob.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=294115
purplemonkeyelephant - on 24 Jun 2017
In reply to Andy Peak 1:

Look, I'm all for trad routes staying trad routes but if someone thinks it's fine to use pegs until the rock is damaged enough to take a nut, then why should you get a say how I damage the rock? People get all high and mighty about bolts whilst simultaneously blowing out flakes with cams, polishing holds to mirrors, and creating peg scars (apparently thats fine now?).

I don't have a problem with cam hooks, or someone passively placing a knifeblade, but if we can wear out the rock until our trad gear fits...

> If people place and remove pegs correctly the placement wears to take normal trad gear anyway.

...then maybe we should just stick a bolt in it. I'm not pro-bolting, I just don't see the logic in your argument.

Andy Peak 1 - on 24 Jun 2017
In reply to purplemonkeyelephant:
It's E8 7a on cloggy I don't think anything will be getting worn out any time soon.

The route has bean created if you want to step up and do it with a bolt by all means do! im the last person to tell anyone how they should climb and in what style.

Overused quote but true all climbing damages the rock. if you can't cope with that it's probably time to stop.
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

In future Rob, just blame it on 'NB'
Michael Gordon - on 26 Jun 2017
In reply to purplemonkeyelephant:

Andy said: "As for damaging the rock it won't damage it any more than cleaning a nut placement." Again, this is hand-placed gear and is not going to cause a crack to widen (unless the rock around it was loose anyway).
jon on 26 Jun 2017
In reply to Sean Kelly:

I think the new route is over by Llithrig so a long way left (and out of sight) of the route in your photo. I'd say you were right with Troach, or maybe Purrspire?

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