UKC

Hey guys, just a quick one really. I have never been to Pembroke and with there being so much there I don't even know where to start! I'm very experienced and climb up to about HVS at the moment. Slabs or faces are preferable to super steep stuff. So any tips for a first visit?

In reply to Felix Ottey:

Well if you've not been before start anywhere, it's all class. The new wired guide has lots of pretty pictures for inspiration. And you can generally eyeball most crags from the top before committing to abbing down.

In reply to Felix Ottey:

Its generally steep, so start a couple of grades below what you might otherwise.

In reply to Felix Ottey:

Pembrokeshire is my favourite place for climbing. While searching for the name of a slab I once climbed I came across this: http://www.visitpembrokeshire.com/activities-adventure/rock-climbing/5-best...

To that list I would add this superb climb: Heart of Darkness (HVS 4c)

In reply to Felix Ottey:
I was similarly experienced on my first visit and found the grading pretty gentle after gritstone, peak limestone and the mountain volcanics I was used to. Just warm up and work your way through the VS and HVS graded list of classics. Don't miss out on N Pembroke which has different rock from the main steep limestone areas, including some amazing sandstone slabs at your grade. Like this one..

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=2545

In reply to Felix Ottey:

I would do the classic routes, but stay away from St. Govans if you can. The HVSs there are really steep, really polished and feel hard for the grade - and they're just crap compared to routes on the more adventurous crags. I thought Riders on the Storm (HVS 5a) was a fantastic HVS, Bludgeon (HVS 5a) is good - both have fun scramble approaches. As offwidth says, if you want to climb slabs (or specifically steep slabby walls) you won't find much in the South, you need to head to St. Davids and explore the sandstone (which is like climbing slate but with friction). Carreg-y-Barcud Area is the biggest crag of the area and has fantastic routes in this style,
e.g. Ethos (HVS 5a). If you fancy pushing your grade, Sinecure (E1 5b) is a really beautiful route and I think very soft for the grade - an all time favourite route of mine.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Add to what Jon said, The Great Valero, E1 5b at Carreg y barcud. Great stuff.

Another recommend for Heart of Darkness.

In reply to Felix Ottey:

Thanks guys this is all really helpfull, I'm going to try and get down there next weekend.

In reply to Felix Ottey:

Here's a ticklist I put together a while ago that may be of interest:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1592
(be aware of range and bird restrictions on some routes).

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Rock Destinations