UKC

I've got the opportunity for a few days on the slate over coming weeks and would like to start working towards my long term ambition of not decking out while attempting Poetry Pink (E5 6b). Can any of the kind folk on UKC recommend slate slab routes at lower grades (E2-E3/soft E4 and up to 6c+ sport) that I can gain experience on please? So far I've done; Pull my Daisy, Gnat attack, massambula, the east face of Vivian link up and the Dervish. I also got burnt off Scarlett runner direct (25 degrees and soft shoes didn't make for a happy outing).
Cheers!

In reply to Tigger:

Goose creature would be good, I'll think of some others

In reply to Tigger:

Heading The Shot? Considerably harder than 6c+, and a little bit runout if you choose to regard it as a sport route, but safe.

And I haven't been on them, but the things right of the Dervish slab are supposed to be good - Is It A Crime etc.

In reply to AlanLittle:

Crazy train 6c
Off the beaten tracks e3 5c (lots of bolts)
Red throated diver 6b

All in Australia and all good.

In reply to deacondeacon:

Oh yea also done it a couple of times, thanks.

In reply to AlanLittle:
Is that the Conscience slab? I was looking at it whilst in Vivian but ran out of time, thanks for the reminder!

Edit: Is off the beaten track one level up from looking the tube?

In reply to Tigger:

Watch Me Wallaby Wank, Frank (E4 6a) just tie down your belayer...

In reply to Tigger:

Funnily enough this was my ambition whilst I was at University and my round-about journey involved much the same as yours: Pull My Daisy (which is amazing) and Comes the Dervish (which is also amazing).

In the short term there is some bad news: Scarlett Running Direct (at least from what I recall) is a path compared to Poetry. In the long run there's some good news though, as it sounds like conditions weren't ideal when you were on it and (hopefully) you've got yourself some new shoes now.

When it comes to other suggestions, Heading the Shot (E5 6b) (which has been mentioned elsewhere) is a good bet as it's hard, but well protected (basically a 7a+ sport route) - as such give you a flavour for the difficult you're likely to experience on Poetry Pink (although HTS is probably little harder than PP). Is it a Crime? (E3 5c) and Never as Good as the First Time (E3 5c) on the Conscience Slab are good sport, but pretty straightforward (assuming they're still standing that is, as I know there's been rockfall in that area).The Sweetest Taboo (E4 6a) is better still, but obscenely bold at the start, although this could be considered good 'training' for Poetry unless it completely puts you off the idea of doing it (I certainly didn't find it soft for the grade though!).

Sure there's a few others I could suggest, but am equally sure a great many others will have some good suggestions too.

Good luck!

In reply to mal_meech:

Ahh, there you go - two seconds later and there's the one I was thinking of. It's even soft for the grade too.

Short Stories (E4 6a) is the best route on the Never Never Land Slab, being both bold, sustained, and most definitely not soft for the grade. Kubla Khan (E3 6b) is a little inferior, but is worthwhile for it's hard crux.

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:
Thanks, looks like I've got a fair bit to be going at, its going to be a bit cooler this weekend so midges permitting I'll have a look a Scarlett runner direct again. I just remember not being able to edge well enough last time and constantly sweating of slightly sloping crimps...

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Don't think it's soft for inflexible short arses like myself, but it is safe.

In reply to mal_meech:
I've just remembered + noticed why I thought it was soft for the grade - it got E4 when I did it.

Shame though, for a minute I felt quite good about myself...

In reply to AlanLittle:

Maybe worth a top rope session but probably beyond my current abilities. I've looked at it though and it does look a little (lot) run out for sport.

In reply to Tigger:
Another one for the list is 'Scheherezade' on the Never Never slab, Nails move low down but its right on the bolt followed by some run outs between bolts. Similar to HTS but not as sustained as there is nothing approaching the difficulty of low crux else where on the route. Not a push over though.....

oh and Slug Club, bold to the spike with a hard move before you can get to it.

In reply to Tigger:
The hard moves on Poetry Pink are not far above the bolts but there's a fair bit of run out 5b and 5c. I seem to recall that getting to the first bolt is not too bad. The hardest moves are not far above that, including the crux which is probably 6b. I fell off the crux and it was fine. Got it second go and remember thinking that I needed stiffer shoes with better edges. It gets dangerously run out up to the second bolt, particularly the last move before you can clip, which is a 5b/c mantleshelf - you'd probably deck from that and it's at a height where you'd easily break your legs. After that there's another 6a move or two but not far above the second bolt. Then it gets into run out 5b and 5c territory as you pull onto the rainbow but I don't think you'd deck until you get onto the rainbow and if you get that far you shouldn't fall off. The second pitch has more gear (although that's not saying much!) and is around 5b from what I recall.

All the routes you've listed are much easier than Poetry Pink. As Rob said, Scarlett Runner Direct is a path in comparison but it's good training for the head. As you may have found out depending on how far you got, there are some creaky holds on it. One in particular which you may need to pull on very gently (or preferably not at all), if it comes off you will deck as it's below the first bolt, so watch out for that.

Good routes to try are the various routes on the Never Never Land slab. Scheherezade is a similar level of difficulty (a bit easier and shorter) and pretty safe where it matters. Kubla Khan is a bit of a two move wonder on the 6a/b crux but has some run out 5b/c which is good training for the head. Short Stories has a fair few 6a moves in exciting positions but is just about safe enough. I've yet to summon the courage for Never Never Land itself. There's also Heading the Shot in Serengeti which is similar in difficulty (a bit easier and shorter) and fairly safe. Basically you need to be solid on run out 5b and 5c and be able to do 6a/b or sport 7a/+.

Enjoy and take care!