UKC

13 years after belaying Didier Berthod on the first ascent, Fred Moix repeats Greenspit, an 8b+ roof crack in the Valle dell'Orco, Italy.

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In reply to UKC News:

Great vid with some really nice footage. Have to say that I thought the music seemed like it would be more appropriate for something like Lord of the Rings though.

Interesting that he redpointed it placing the gear on lead. To strip all the gear out of a horizontal roof like that must be a huge faff and a lot of effort. Not surprised Didier went for the pinkpoint originally.

In reply to UKC News:

Loved this video - so beautiful. Am amazed it doesn't seem to have garnered much attention on here.

Hanging the crimps seemed a stopper move. But hey, he's a boulderer!

Would be great to see video footage of Laurence and Stevie on this.

Like jamming into heaven.

Mick

In reply to Mick Ward:


Really? I'm Afraid I found the whole thing somewhat pretentiously overblown and slightly irritating. It left me wanting to see a proper real time single shot of the whole ascent without music of what is clearly amazing climb.

In reply to Robert Durran:


Absolutely. And it's not a route, it's a boulder problem.

In reply to Robert Durran:

I thought it was an instructional video for cam placing

In reply to stp:

I watched it with the sound off but for me, it was a visual feast. Lovely cinematography, but I take RD's point about it not being much of a 'climbing film'. I also forgot Didier had become a monk!

In reply to Bulls Crack:

More a sort of: "Look! Leader place protection! Such a novelty that we'll show every placement from several different angles in slow motion".

Alao: "Look! I've got a drone! I'll make it buzz around annoyingly just to make sure you didn't think I'd merely climbed a convenient tree."

In reply to Robert Durran:


Didn't want to be the first to say it. The music, the close-ups, the slow-mo, I found it completely ludicrous. Verging on parody. Please, no one ever make a climbing film like this ever again.

In reply to stp:

Agree...really good video, but the soundtrack was way too OTT!

In reply to Jon Stewart:


Verging on parody but I quite liked it for that. Its not too long either. I like having a variety of styles of what are, after all, free climbing videos. Personally I don't particularly like the American 'rock star wannabe' introspectives' or videos with dance music backgrounds but each to their own.

In reply to GrahamD:


I tend to like stuff that has a sense of humility and/or humour. Not much of it around. This was the diametric opposite.

In reply to Robert Durran:


I think it would have come across rather differently with a different soundtrack or even narration instead of music.

In reply to UKC News:

The mind boggles. Wh would you go to the trouble of carrying a camera to a crag and filmiing something, then editing it

And then dubbing it with music that is so awful that there is no possibility of anyone getting past the first 60 seconds.

Dire

Just watched it again with the sound on this time and okay, it was a bit 'epic' in nature, but I don't think it detracted very much from the video: big struggle, man against nature, will he defeat the rock. I see why the film maker chose it, but coupled with predominantly slo-mo footage it seemed a little inappropriate at times.

Slower / quieter music might have been a better choice, or real-time footage or different editing perhaps.

Overall I felt it's still a good video, helped by the drone footage which gives a good impression of the 3D form of the rock which the line takes. I'd not seen this in videos of other climbers on it so was helpful in that respect. I think I'd give this an 8/10.

In reply to UKC News:

Well I enjoyed it very much, for what that's worth. The monk was a surprise - I wonder what the story is there.

In reply to BusyLizzie:

Hi Lizzie, Didier Berthod, who did the FA of Greenspit, had a famous battle for the FA of Cobra Crack. Sadly he got injured and didn't make it. I believe he subsequently dropped out of climbing and became a monk. So I'm assuming that's him with Fred Moix at the end. For me, this is the best part of the film and, as I said above, I loved the rest of it. Although the two of them may have hugged each other for the camera, the emotion between them is palpable. Each knows what the other has endured on Greenspit.

For me, that's what climbing is all about - the joy (and pain!) of struggle, the shared emotion - whether you win or whether you don't.

Mick

In reply to Mick Ward:

Thank you. Yes, that was not just a hug for the camera, there was some very deep stuff going on there. People being real with each other.
Lizzie

In reply to aln:


Well now I know there's at least 6 people on here lacking a sense of humour.

In reply to Mick Ward:
A monk? A hug? Really? Was this some sort of subliminal message that eluded me? Don't say I have to watch it again!

In reply to Robert Durran:

Yes Robert, I'm afraid you do have to watch it again - this time all the way through, if you please.

The carpet crawlers heed their callers:
"We've got to get in... to get out...
We've got to get in... to get out...
We've got to get in... to get out..."

You just know it makes sense!

Mick

In reply to aln:

I'm afraid Laurence got there well before you. She had some nifty French term (which has since fled my mind), roughly translating as 'cute'. And then she whopped four cams in the roof and went for it. She earned the right to call it whatever she likes - fought the good fight and, in the end, came close to winning.

Me, I'll go with, "It doesn't make Quietus look like a Diff - it makes it look like the stroll up to the crag."

Mick

In reply to Mick Ward:


Oh bollocks. Can't I just watch the end bit?