UKC

Stanage PlantationOverexposed (E5 6b)

climbed what seems to be a new route, anyone know how and where to log it?

There is a new routes book in the Outside shop in Hathersage.

Your link goes to an existing route with 1 or 2 previous ascents. How is this then a new route?

And even if your route is not the one in the link, it's quite likely that someone will say "oh yes xxx did that years ago".

Still, even if yours is the first recorded ascent, you'll still get the chance to name it

(Until xxx comes along and says "but I called it yyy"   strange name for a route )

so my new route isn't the one on the link, that is there as a reference, i don't yet have a link for the route because i don't know where to report it

oh man problem is i live in london and am only in the peaks very occasionally, is there nothing online like fontainbleau has bleau.info website? 

You mention you live in London, so I guess you are using the Southerner grading system, so in reality it's probably a Stanage E4!

Ok, I suspected something like that, just wasn't clear from your original post.

And apologies for the dismissive tone in my original reply. If you really (I.e. not just unreported) have managed to do something at Stanage that's not been done before, then that's quite an achievement.

A start would be to add the route to the UKC database. Go to Stanage Plantation and click on [add missing climb] it’ll get checked at some point by the crag moderator and included in the main database which informs guide compilers if it is new.

I’m guessing that as it’s a hard grit line in the plantation, it’ll maybe translate from E6ish to a Font grade?

paul

Recording new routes online on ukc is obviously the best way.

I assume you have thoroughly checked the definitive guide? 

And checked all the new routes on the logbook section for Stanage? New routes are unlikely to be in order--they will be in the unknown routes section at the bottom.

Definitely! Which doesn't mean it's not possible.

Might be worth posting a description of the line you did and asking if anyone knows if it's an existing route. Sometimes things will make it into one guidebook but not another.

Yes, you are on it - UKC. Add it using the 'add missing climb' link. I am the Stanage moderator, I'll take a look.

Alan

Guess everyone here missed the chap's first thread? :

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rocktalk/overexposed_direct-694624

Edit: meant to reply to slabhappy, who suggests a description, and to ask whether anyone knows if it's been done. Which he did, and got no hits...

Yup, I did, thanks for the link!

Wow, you got that I was replying to you, before I could type an edit.

You're like some kind of thread ninja!

I had seen it but didn't twig/remember until after my initial post.

The straight up line looks so obvious that it's hard to believe it hasn't been done before. But you never know, everyone may have thought that and ignored it and Joshua might just get lucky.

God knows how soft grades must be down south - IMO Stanage is often quite soft

I'm surprised no-one seems to know of a BMC area guidebook author/compiler who would handle this sort of stuff, like e.g. you have Andy Nisbet for Scotland?

i live in london but i was born in sheffield and have spent enough time falling off 5a's in fontainbleau to understand what stiff grading is, and for the record southern sandstone is graded more or less same as peaks, but its harder to actually climb anything because the rock comes off in your hands and so soft. also i am proposing v4 for the route and would be delighted if you climbed it and downgraded it to a v2

its not actually so hard, probably soft at v4 but i think it deserves v4 because of the exposure and the difficulty of working the moves, probably be a 5a in font though

done it, i am proposing 'Direct Exposure' v4

thanks alan

ive checked in 3 guide books and on the photograph boulder logbook on here and its not there, i dont understand why its been missed out by whoever did overexposure first when you get up there it made much more sense to me going straight up rather than to the left arete. im fully prepared to be shot down if someone knows what the line is called but so far i cant find it

Based on the width of the boulder one would say there is next to no difference in going up or left first, just a different sequence for the same problem.

if that seems to be the consensus after a few repeats then im happy to agree with you, however i disagree.

Direct Exposure (V4)

youtube.com/watch?v=WFQSLGU-cx8&

Some shoddy  replies on this thread! As well as UKC logbooks, new lines should go to Niall Grimes at the BMC (definitive guide producers) and to the peak bouldering site. It's also worth asking on the other channel (UKB) as thats where most of the boulderers post. Links below.

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/have-you-climbed-a-new-route

http://peakbouldering.info

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/board,53.0.html

Good effort.How many mats?

I've not done either, but I'd have thought there's going to be a substantial difference between using the arete and not. Looks like a different line to me, so all kudos to Mr Penn-Watson!

Thanks! Sent it off to Neil. 

At last, a useful reply to the OP

Pretty sure that's not been done before Josh, well done. How tall are you?

Why did someone dislike the link to the video? That's mental! Nice vid and well done.

thanks! its a great route! excited for someone else to have a crack. im 6 ft, go get on it get second ascent

Looks classy, a plumb line and a fair bit easier than the original!

Nice one