UKC

Part of my "Mechanical Advantage" series on bigwallgear.com

Two Myths:  https://www.bigwallgear.com/p/climbing-tools-and-techniques1908

Your series... Sir, are you the author??

Edit: just seen your profile. HUGE RESPECT to you !!!!! (And great article)

That was fabulous, thanks.

Sad to report I briefly wondered why the memento mori skeleton was taking a selfie. God this world is forked up eh.

b

Fascinating, thank you.

In reply 

Thanks for posting. A really informative article well worth reading. It's great to find out about all this history to our sport. That picture with the guide? with the snaplink across his chest in the 1890s makes us think that the design of the karabiner is a multi facetted story, and all the more interesting for that.

Thanks for sharing this - looking forward to more!!

interesting article! however, Dachstein south face was first climbed without pegs  (and in 5 hours, a time most teams do not manage today).

Second, it is in Styria (don't search for it in Tyrol), third following the line in the image will have you in some trouble.

Still, one of the big achievements for the time. good topo at bergsteigen.com

Thank for the location correction Dachstein being in Styria.  Regarding pitons, the Pichl route, the first route up the south wall was most likely done without pitons, however, there is plenty of evidence that the Steiner brothers were using pitons by 1909 when they climbed their more direct route up the wall. But I only note that later, pitons were considered valid for the route.  Some of the earliest references to the use of pitons for climbing are in the Dachstein, in fact,  but I included the beautiful south wall more to make note of a testpiece.

Regarding the topos, those are direct from the old journals! (1910 & 1937). I am sure those old topos got a lot of people lost back in those days!

Thanks to everyone who commented, really appreciate it.  Next is the evolution of double rope technique, and even lighter and stronger gear of the 1930s as the popularity of big wall climbing exploded worldwide. 

These are really great. Having them online like this is well and good, but (if you could get permission to reproduce the parts of the journals, manuals etc) I recon there'd be a ready market for a book on the evolution of technical climbing gear and technique. 

Next part here:  https://www.bigwallgear.com/p/climbing-tools-and-techniques1908-8c5?utm_sou...

up to first ascent north wall of Eiger.

(1st draft, more info on tools and technology in process)

Your technological research coupled to its applications by the great pioneers is a very real contribution to understanding the evolution of Alpine history. Great work, keep it up.