UKC

How many nut keys! (Pol)

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 Mlewis 06 Oct 2022

Turns out this is a hot subject. 

How many nut keys for a multipitch route? 


How many nut keys when climbing a multipitch routes?

One which stays with the second
32 votes | 0%
One each, they are very useful
180 votes | 0%
4
2 votes | 0%
This is my nutkey. There are many others like it, but this one is mine. My nutkey is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life. Without me, my nutkey is useless. Without my nutkey, I am useless.
38 votes | 0%
None.
3 votes | 0%
Between 0 and 2. The actual TBD when the second reaches the first stuck nut and then they will be discovered on the leaders harness.
15 votes | 0%
3.14159265358979323846264338327950288419716939937510582097494459230781640628620899862803482534211706798214808651328230664709384460955058223172535940812848111745028410270193852110555964462294895493038196442881097566593344612847564823378678316527120190
4 votes | 0%
Is this the most gormless question on UKC, ever?
14 votes | 0%
Only one which stays with your lunch for eating hummus and opening bottles
3 votes | 0%
One each, except from the two occasions I've found additional ones on the route.
3 votes | 0%
Nutkey? I rack a 4 foot crowbar
4 votes | 0%
Oooo you are awful, but I like you.
1 vote | 0%
I found one with two hooks for removing cams which were evil . I hammered them flat
1 vote | 0%
Depends if you used one for the first abseil
2 votes | 0%
Dry tool up the route so you can double your tools up as a nutkey
2 votes | 0%
I went through this whole list looking for the option “2”
2 votes | 0%
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9
OP Mlewis 06 Oct 2022
In reply to Mlewis:

*Poll

 The Norris 06 Oct 2022
In reply to Mlewis:

While definitely not essential, I've set off on way too many pitches with swing leads, and said 'oh fudge I forgot to give them the nut key'. 1 hour* later, they finally fiddle out that bit of gear with their bare hands. 

*minor exaggeration possibly.

 Cheese Monkey 06 Oct 2022
In reply to Mlewis:

pi

2
In reply to Mlewis:

Always carry one when leading. Stops the second getting your crag swag.

1
 GrahamD 06 Oct 2022
In reply to Mlewis:

At Swanage, you don't lead the top pitches without a nut key - you never know when you have to cut steps on the top out.

 NaCl 06 Oct 2022
In reply to GrahamD:

This. I've a mate who on a very runout exit at Baggy point hammered his in as a shit warthog, tying it off and clipping it.

In reply to Mlewis:

I always carry a nut key on lead,  essential for cleaning placements on mountain routes,  assisting threading slings and removing that awkward wire that snagged somewhere when there's a better option but just won't budge!! As said above,  also saves the issue for forgetting to swap it over each pitch if you've got one each.

 alexm198 07 Oct 2022
In reply to NaCl:

So is your answer in this case, ‘two, plus one hammer’?

 alan moore 07 Oct 2022
In reply to Mlewis:

Surprised at the result! 

I always thought it was the seconds job.

Learned something new today.

 Robert Durran 07 Oct 2022
In reply to alan moore:

> Surprised at the result! 

> I always thought it was the seconds job.

> Learned something new today.

Me too. Where are all these leaders carrying nut keys?

5
 Robert Durran 07 Oct 2022
In reply to Sandstone Stickman:

> As said above,  also saves the issue for forgetting to swap it over each pitch if you've got one each.

Maybe both climbers should also carry their own rack in case they forget to swap that over too.

5
In reply to Robert Durran:

On multi pitch I almost always choose to carry a nut key as a leader... can be useful for threads and cleaning placements but also if you get gear stuck but not secure. 

Single pitch I will often have one just because it's on my harness 

 mike barnard 07 Oct 2022
In reply to Robert Durran:

> Where are all these leaders carrying nut keys?

Can be handy for ground-up new routing, less essential for repeating stuff though I did have to get one passed up recently at Tynrich Slabs.

I did wonder if you'd contribute to this thread Robert. I'm curious as to whether you've ever met up with a climbing partner who also doesn't own a nut key, and whether a lot of gear was lost that day?

 Kevster 07 Oct 2022
In reply to Mlewis:

I'd normally take 2 to the crag. Just incase the 2nd (s) forgot theirs. Gotta look after your rack yourself. 

 Robert Durran 07 Oct 2022
In reply to mike barnard:

> I did wonder if you'd contribute to this thread Robert. I'm curious as to whether you've ever met up with a climbing partner who also doesn't own a nut key, and whether a lot of gear was lost that day?

I'm sure it's happened (no nut key, not the gear loss), though I can't recall an occasion off hand. Maybe I should buy one (I've been without for a while).

 Mark Kemball 07 Oct 2022
In reply to Kevster:

I'll be doing that tomorrow.

 Mark Kemball 07 Oct 2022
In reply to Robert Durran:

If you're planning to buy one I'd really recommend one on a leash - it saves a lot of faff. https://www.tradeinn.com/trekkinn/en/wildcountry-pro-key-with-leash/444623/... 

1
 Robert Durran 07 Oct 2022
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Yes, my regular climbing partner has that one - excellent, but I wish they had a broader blunt end for bashing with a hand when a stone is not to hand.

 Chris Murray 07 Oct 2022
In reply to Mark Kemball:

I had one of those but some toerag nicked it.

Just left with the rusty one I found in the sea in Pembrokeshire (insert sadface emoji here)

 tehmarks 07 Oct 2022
In reply to Mlewis:

I prefer to have a nut key on lead because it's a bit boring when you get gear stuck in a non-placement by accident.

I'm also very forgetful though, which often determines the answer without further discussion.

 99ster 08 Oct 2022
In reply to Robert Durran:

> ....but I wish they had a broader blunt end for bashing with a hand when a stone is not to hand.

Try the DMM ones - they have a rubber section over the handle to help with bashing:  https://dmmwales.com/climbing-products/nuts/nutbuster

Post edited at 00:02
 Holdtickler 08 Oct 2022
In reply to Mlewis:

I used mine as a sky hook once and aided on it. Not recommended but it did work. I've mused with the idea of using it as an emergency piton too but I didn't try that yet. Hope I'll never  be in a position where that's the best available play!

Surely also gardening? 

 Robert Durran 08 Oct 2022
In reply to 99ster:

> Try the DMM ones - they have a rubber section over the handle to help with bashing:  https://dmmwales.com/climbing-products/nuts/nutbuster

I've used that one too. I think you really need a flat end about the size of a 50p coin minimum for manual bashing.

In reply to Robert Durran:

Isn't that what a big hex is for?

In reply to Mlewis:

Always have a nut key with me, seconding or leading, seconding; for obvious reasons, leading; very useful for threads or cleaning.


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