UKC

In a bumper five days of competition, the IFSC Lead and Boulder World Cup circuit returned to Innsbruck, where Janja Garnbret (SLO) won double gold and Sorato Anraku (JPN) and Sascha Lehmann (SUI) took victories in front of a packed crowd. IFSC commentator Matt Groom reports...

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Hello, would you mind not posting who has won the event in the title? It ruins it a bit for people who haven't caught up yet. 

Didn't you ask this last time too? Haven't you figured out how to avoid ukc until you've caught up, it's not that hard.

Indeed he did:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/ifsc_boulder_world_cup_seoul_2023_rep...

Nomen est omen ...

As per Nick's response from last time you asked, if you want to avoid accidentally seeing the results - I'd suggest avoiding UKC. 

We are - amongst other things - a climbing news website, hence we report on climbing news. If you don't want to see climbing news - avoiding going to the climbing news website.

In the same vein, if you don't want to know the football, tennis, cricket and rugby scores don't visit BBC Sport either, and if you do - don't complain when you see the scores...

It was a great competition. Loads of good climbing in both boulder and lead.

Perhaps I am just getting used to it, but I thought the boulder problems weren't as parkoury as in some rounds. The lead routes in the finals looked absolute nails.

However, I don't think we'll ever see the likes of old school comps such as this:

youtube.com/watch?v=5-AkweXwoDs&

Re the route setting:

"...there were a few times where Ai (154cm) didn't have the span. Is this bad setting…or a weakness that Ai needs to work on, improving her dynamic climbing ability? Height is often discussed in competitions, and usually athletes find a way to work through difficulties like that."

Ai´s dogged but unsuccessful attempts to catch the toe hook on boulder 4 had nothing to do with her needing to work on her dynamic ability, and there was certainly no way of "working through the difficulty", there being no other holds to try and use - she was simply physically unable to reach the toe hook, never mind catch and hold it. So I´d go with the "not good setting" comments in this instance.

(PS Matt - nice commentating and writing as always, but a minor gripe - it´s "fifth" and "sixth" place, not "fith" and "sickth" ... )

You make a good point about Ai´s height and the difficulties she had with the toe hook.

I don't know what the answer is, maybe there isn't one. Taller competitors sometimes have problems with certain moves and sequences as well. As a tall climber I often struggle with toe hooks and bunched starts in bouldering walls set for the average height.

Most of the time, I think the setters get it right and do a really good job.

Strongly agree.  She had no way of doing that move and therefore could not have possibly won the Final.