UKC

This week's Friday Night Video takes us to across the pond to Yosemite Valley, where Amity Warme is trying Book of Hate, 5.13d.

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Americans are weird. Put bolts right next to sinker wire slots and then no bolts in the top half where you're into sketchy ball-nuts and micro-cams?

Not that I cared! Proper all out fight! That girl climbs well for sure but she is above all a proper fighter. I am well impressed. I wish I could fight half as hard when I am on the wall.

Good videos and that looks like an amzing route. Would love to try it.

Curious as to the grade change though. Randy declared it "borderline 5.13" and now it apparently gets 5.13d? That's a 3 or maybe even 4 grade change!

Or by "borderline 5.13" could he have meant possibly even 5.14? Seems an unlikely way to phrase it if that's what he meant.

Anyone know why the grade may have changed so much? Absurdly talented first ascentionist? (but we know that already!) Climbing style that modern climbers struggle more with? Anything else?

I wonder whether it was a bit of a throwaway comment from Leavitt. At any rate, the change doesn't appear to have taken long; the route is captioned as being 5.13d in the video which appears to have been released only two years after the first ascent. Had it been repeated by then? If not then the 5.13d presumably came from Leavitt. There are only two repeats listed on the MP database and they're both last year - with one other name suggesting the 13d rating without logging an ascent.

Broken hold? Not unlikely looking at some of those flakes. 
caveat: I know nothing about the route or the sector it is in.

Great fight on a great route, but unfortunately a really sloppily made film; no narrative, background info or thoughts from Amity about what was going through her mind before, during and after the climb. And whoever was responsible for the music should be fired on the spot; I nearly stopped the vid after 2 minutes because it was ruining it for me, but scrolled a bit forward and found out that it had mercifully stopped.

I found it refreshing....

No emotional backstory, no padding it out with non climbing filler, just straight to the point with some great footage. 

You say that like it's a bad thing...

Great fight on a great route, and fortunately a really well made film; no narrative, background info or thoughts from Amity about what was going through her mind before, during and after the climb. And whoever was responsible for the music should be given a prize; I was hooked on the vid after 2 minutes because it set just the right atmosphere without being intrusive. Never scrolled even a bit forward and found that mercifully I never needed to.

I don't know about this route, but ive done a few routes in the states with a bolt low down to stop all the gear higher up unzipping. Especially if it's a slightly slabby start to a steeper route. Maybe it's that? 

She needs to get on the Quarryman