UKC

Here's Roger's lastest update on Scottish new routeing...

https://smc.org.uk/climbs/blog

There always seems to be a lot going on in Scotland. Are as many new routers in other parts of the UK just as active? Or is there just more undeveloped rock available in Scotland?

It's got to be the latter. Most crags south of the border are climbed out IMO, at least at reasonable grades.

That seems so obvious as to be not worth saying.

He's certainly still out there.

The amount of new routes on the Llyn since the guidebook was published earlier in the year is into the triple digits, I doubt a week has gone by without at least a few.

What I want to know is, who can trace the earliest instance of the claim that some part or the whole of the UK is 'climbed out'?

It is true of course that with the odd notable exception, it is generally diminishing returns from a finite resource.

One day, when the billionth contrived link-up eliminate variation has been claimed on the last knee-high boulder on a remote skerry that is only uncovered at a low spring tide, the new router can down his brushes and the era of the coveted second ascent can begin.

Finale at Shepherds done around 1958 ?

Pre dates Last Laugh at Castle Rock.

Both  names suggest last new route available.

I think that statement is usually made by people for whom the climbing in the UK consists of the Peak and nothing else.....

There seems to be quite a lot of good stuff getting done in Wales at the moment so I'm not sure we are in "diminishing returns" yet.

Excited to get my hands on the Llyn guidebook.

I don't say there aren't still great things being done, but it's inevitable that the volume of top quality new stuff is gradually diminishing. We live on a densely populated island, king lines on large pieces of good quality rock can't hide forever.