UKC

If you were producing a version of Ken Wilsons' "Classic Rock" for Ireland what routes would be in it?

My partner and I have done quite a few road trips using Classic and Hard rock lists as a blueprint for where to go in an area and then added in other routes we feel might be good.  We have a trip to ireland coming up in June and I was wondering what the real stand out routes in Ireland are?

I've climbed a bit in both Ireland and N ireland, have the new guidebook and bunch of old ones and we have a healthy appetite for adventure routes.

In reply to arose:

I reckon The Sheugh (S) would be right up your street Ali. Top out with bags and wander on up to the summit tors of Binnian where you can take your pick of a few more routes (Rankin's Crack (HS 4b) perhaps?) or descend and head over to Lamagan for a stroll up FM (VD).

Not sure if combo routes would get ‘classic rock’ status but if they did this route Spillikin-Fanfare-Spéirbhean (VS 4c) in Glendalough would make my list. Alternatively Spillin-Fanfare-Nightmare / Spillikin-Fanfare-Scimitar would be as good or better.

If you want adventure off the beaten track I would recommended a trip to Valentia island and the route Brendan the Navigator at The Black Cliff

Have a great trip

In reply to arose:

Can´t help you with suggestions I´m afraid; just wanted to say that I love your "Worked Grades" list!

In reply to Andy Moles:

"Reputedly characterful.”  sounds ideal

In reply to McHeath:

HAha,  I’d forgotten about that.  I think that section was annoying me so I thought I would go for my best DNF’s!

In reply to arose:

Even better!

In reply to arose:

Have you seen Rock Climbing in Ireland by David Flanagan? It contains 400 of the best climbs in Ireland. Perfect for the wandering visitor or just for someone searching for inspiration.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/books/rock_climbing_in_ireland-1506

In reply to Steve Crowe:

Thanks.  Just got a copy was hoping to narrow the selection down with this forum post.  

In reply to arose:

Get this on to your list

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/ailladie_burren_co_clare-2338/pis_...

In reply to Steve Crowe:

Brilliant thanks, keep em coming.  It’s a great route. Must be 20years since I climbed it. 

In reply to arose:

Quartz gully - Glendalough Wicklow

Tarquins Groove - Derryveagh Donegal

Carrot ridge - Ben Corr Connemara

They are all on UKC, some more useful info at https://uniqueascent.ie/

In reply to davkeo:

An absolute gem. One of my first multi pitch routes.

Ifreann is also another contender from the main Glendo routes. 

In reply to arose:

I would agree to Quartz Gully. It’s excellent for the grade.

Ghost in Dalkey Quarry is worth a look in. I’d also add in The Shield.

An Bunnan Bui at Aladie as well.

In reply to Kimberley:

Brilliant thanks. I did tarquins groove on my first trip to Ireland but it’s so long ago that I only remember that it rained. I’ll add them to the list. 

In reply to greg_may_:  thanks.  I’ve done bunnan but a long time ago but had to check my logbook  the ghost sounds great

In reply to arose:

Ghost is one of the classics of the crag. Leaving the safety of the grove and going upwards is an act of pure trust in friction. It’s great.

if you’re in the area, a little to the right is an excellent E4 called Masochist Masochist (E4 6a) - used to be E3, but someone saw sense

In reply to arose:

Gap of Dunloe; adventurous mountain feel but still within 2km of a great pub

Out of My Reach (E1 5a)

Bash on Regardless (E2 5c)

The Stoop (E2 5c)

Dún Séanna; sea cliff outskirts of Dingle, solid post climb seafood, Guinness  and trad 

JUMBO (E1 5b)

STINKY PHOO (E1 5b)

In reply to arose:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/lough_belshade-3749/classical_revi...

In reply to auld al:  brilliant.  Amazingly I’ve also climbed this though we backed off due to midgies!  Long time ago too and I actually couldn’t remember which route it was till I clicked on your link  

In reply to arose:

If you're planning on travelling, doing the "classic provincial ridges" (not sure if it's actually a thing, but it should be!) would be a good way of getting around the country, and they all have other good crags nearby (bar Carrot Ridge).

Leinster- Great Gully Ridge (HS 4b) (next valley over from Glendalough, much more remote feeling)

Ulster- FM (VD)

Munster- Howling Ridge (Summer) (VD)

Connacht- Carrot Ridge (D)

A few of the more adventurous crags that I'd have in Classic rock would be:

Luggala. Shamefully underappreciated I feel. Halfway between Dalkey and Glendalough yet I reckon it sees about a tenth of the traffic, and I really can't understand why (unless you do Muskrat Ramble, then I understand...). Pine Tree Butress (S 4a) is mega, Clingon / Claidheamh Solais (VS 4c) and All Along The Watchtower (VS 4b) are also great. It's a beautiful spot and feels more remote than it should. Great two storey bivvy cave near the lough as well...if you can find it

Sail Rock - slightly pushing it out of Classic Rock territory as Roaring Forties (VS 4c) is VS, but it's one of the most atmospheric and amazing venues I've been too, would highly recommend (Main Mast (E2 5b) is the showpiece, but a bit outside of Classic Rock remit...). 

Gola Island - a great mix of adventurous and relaxed. Can do a day trip, but worth camping near the loch overnight (ferry is about 20 minutes). Mostly single pitch, Buzz Light Year (HS 4b) and Pride of Gola (S 4a) are class.

Ailladie (Burren, Co. Clare), albeit there's not a huge amount at Classic Rock level- Jug city (VS 4c) is the standout if we're counting VS as Classic Rock, not much below that.

Coumshingaun is an amazing bit of architecture- walking in in the dark and first views of the area being from a sunrise bivvy is something special! Downside is it's a bit of a way from any other climbing, and it only starts at about HVS- Dark Angel (HVS 5a) is wonderful though, just ignore how green it looks from below, it's actually clean.

Something from  Muckross Head would surely get thrown in as well, although I'm not sure whether it would be for the ridiculousness of the climbing or the ridiculousness of the route name. Probably both.

A few other routes that are on the more adventurous end would include:

The Razor's Edge (VS 4c) - although you do need to do an E1 to get back out (although soft and safe. And fun...).

Pillar Variant (S 4a), Agag's Wall (VS 4b) and Brewer's Gloom (S 4a) are all great, and can be done on the way down from FM. Also a really fun little cav scramble/squeeze that should definitely be done if you're there, it's up the side wall of 3rd corner buttress if I remember right. Bring a headtorch, not a bag!

Class Distinction (S 4a) (not necessarily adventurous, just class. As the name suggests!)

I'd also throw everything at Fairhead into it, although that might not quite fit the remit of classic rock... 

In reply to Seán Fortune:

This, this is the info I needed 😅. Yep, VS is totally “classic rock” territory and normally we’d be looking to climb up to E2 (though golfers elbow (me) and a dodgy ankle (hannah) may thwart that)

that’s exactly what we were thinking though. My partner has never been to Ireland so probably try and get all over the place and sample some different routes. Definitely keen to go to gola

In reply to arose:

Yeah once you're happy to travel there's loads to go at- kind of like Scotland in that somewhere is usually dry, even if Plan A is wet! 

Couple of other thoughts- the wiki can be useful (http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Irish_Climbing_Wiki), and there's a fairly active "Irish climbers" Facebook group for local beta. 

Also completely forgot about some of the most adventurous stuff- Donegal sea stacks! Iain Miller is the guy to talk to, he has a guide on his site (https://uniqueascent.ie/sea-stack-guide). Cnoc na Mara is the only one in Dave's guidebook, worth reading for the entertaining description even if you don't do it!