VIDEO: Behind the Scenes: Routesetting at the Hachioji World Championships

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 UKC News 09 Dec 2019
The 2019 IFSC World Championships in Hachioji, Japan was the first chance for athletes to earn a Sport Climbing quota place for the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games. Yet the pressure was on not only for the climbers, but also for the routesetting team, who had the task of separating the world's best climbers in Lead and Bouldering (and Speed, but the route is preset, of course). In this short film, the thoughts and fears of the IFSC Boulder routesetting team are explored as they test their creations and endure the painstaking task of watching the climbers attempt to solve them. The round doesn't always go to plan, as the Hachioji team discovered...

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 TheGeneralist 09 Dec 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Might have been an enjoyable film if I could have read the subtitles.

In reply to TheGeneralist:

Make it fullscreen. 

 buffalo606 10 Dec 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Hmm, surprisingly beautiful film.  Kind of took fore granted the process and the people behind the routes.

In reply to UKC News:

Very worthwhile and insightful film. You realise how seriously they take it and that the margins between success and failure are so small.


 HansStuttgart 11 Dec 2019
In reply to UKC News:


 Rad 11 Dec 2019

Loved seeing fore-running compared with how competitors climbed the routes. The end really showed how much they care about getting it right, which is clearly no easy task. I've done a bit of indoor setting, though obviously not at this level. The creative process is super fun, and it makes you really appreciate great indoor routes that can be 3D puzzles. Fore-running and feedback from other climbers and setters is essential for getting it right. Loved seeing that here in the video.

The Toulouse boulders were great at separating the athletes and providing entertainment, particularly given how little steep terrain was available to the setters. Unfortunately, lead setting wasn't as great, with multiple athletes falling on the same stopper move on both men's and women's routes. 

It seems that the athletes and setters are still figuring this combined format out, but each event seems better than the last, and I'm confident the Olympics will be a great spectacle for all to enjoy!

 justdoit 11 Dec 2019
In reply to UKC News:

really well made , and very engaging as well. 

 shantaram 11 Dec 2019
In reply to UKC News: Tried watching that on  my phone and couldn’t read the subtitles. Shame, as it looks a good film. 

 Mick r 13 Dec 2019
In reply to UKC News:

which problem was he talking about at the end, the failure?  sounded like one was too hard.


In reply to Mick r:

The men's boulder final as a whole: only 2 tops across the 4-boulder round by Tomoa Narasaki. Ondra didn't even manage a bonus.!comp=82...

Post edited at 13:10

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