Chris Sharma is set to join Tommy Caldwell on his attempts on the well known 'Dawn Wall' project on El Capitan. Caldwell, one of the best big wall climbers in the world, has been trying to free climb this line for the last five years.
The team for this season now stands as Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson, Jonathan Siegrist and Chris Sharma...
This is the season? I'd have thought December was not a particular El Cap season - shows what I know.
They should ask Ondra along.
Slightly surprised no coverage yet of Mayan G-S and [sorry, some other woman I've not heard of and have forgotten the name] lowering the female Nose speed record by the best part of two hours.
Lots of very bouldery 5.14 pitches so cold improves friction presumably (I'll ask him next time I see him at facelift...you can do that there). In the various films of Tommy's efforts he's often working stuff in light snow flurries (and not the chalk variety either). Its amazingly inspiring that this is getting such an extended effort as its so much harder than any other free route on the wall and anything completely free there is a very big deal.
That "some other woman" is Libby Sauter. A previous woman's record holder and one of the first women to complete the Nose/NW regular route link up in under 24hours.
> Also Mayan and Stanley have just set a new mixed team record of 3.30
Sean, I think, but yes.
Evidently M S-G has declared her intention to break the all-comers speed record. That would be pretty cool.
I suppose one benefit of the US gov't clusterf*ck will be that those actually on a big wall at the moment get to complete it and experience a park empty of tourists etc. That'd be pretty eerie as well.
In reply to tommytuffa:
Thanks, and to JCM. Those are seriously impressive ascents, which I can't help but rate *slightly* more newsworthy than the announcement of a climbing team alteration.
In reply to UKC News: Does this route play to Sharma's strengths though? From what I've seen, the crux pitches on Dawn Wall are very thin and slabby, whereas Sharma prefers big moves on more positive holds on steep overhangs.
In reply to DaveR: Is this a joke? Dreamtime starts with a sit start on an overhang. All the videos show this clearly. Maybe you mean the Dreamcatcher sport route which does start with a slab?
In reply to Offwidth: Well said. Some of the moves look outrageous, been closely watching and reading everything I can for a few years now. Truly another level!
Press Release Alpkit and Outside Bank Holiday Hathersage Tent Show 4-5th May
Gear News The Art of Climbing – Out Now
Podcast Mountain Air - 6. Rob Woodall, Britain's Greatest Peak Bagger?
Fri Night Vid Finding Focus - Life Behind The Lens of a Climbing Photographer
This week's Friday Night Video is a portrait of a prolific climbing photographer from Wedge Climbing. Sam Pratt is well known in both the outdoor and competition scene but if you haven't heard of him, you've likely seen...