UKC Forums - DESTINATION GUIDE: Classic Peak Limestone Trad

DESTINATION GUIDE: Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDIff to E2

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UKC Articles 14 Aug 2012

Steve Ramsden on Original Route at High Tor, 4 kb

Peak District limestone, it's not all chossy quarries, honestly! And, it's not all overhanging crimp-fests either.

So for those climbers for whom a rest involves a sandwich and cup of tea, not just a slightly bigger hold, we have put together a selection of high quality trad routes, spanning the grades VDiff to E2, and all within a stone's throw of a cake shop.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4700

Matt Maynard 14 Aug 2012

In reply to UKC Articles: Good article this. I like how the UKC database information has been linked and how the list has been made for mortals. More articles to get the juices flowing like this please.

Offwidth 14 Aug 2012

In reply to UKC Articles:

Where the cake shop at Harbourough? Seems to me you are a bit guilty of mis-selling here by including dolomitic limestone to get your VD in. You also could have put in that mod up the big cave in the Manifold but why not be honest: that real quality in bulk on peak limestone starts at VS.

Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 14 Aug 2012

In reply to UKC Articles:

Nice article guys and some great shots. Good to see a change from F9A and E-verybignumbers.

I assume I am not alone in having done all of them?

Chris

Brannock 14 Aug 2012

In reply to UKC Articles: Good list, great range of routes, always nice to see some peak limestone.

Not sure Id put original route at High Tor up there, always found it a bit lose, polished and awkward. Id put John Peel (Dovedale) or Padme (Stoney, admittedly bit polished) as better at HVSs.

The Mole 14 Aug 2012

In reply to UKC Articles: Nice article.

The link on original route takes you to the Severe of the same name at Black Rocks

OliBangbala 14 Aug 2012

In reply to UKC Articles: Definately agree with Skylight, Probably my favorate lead EVER!!!

kingholmesy 14 Aug 2012

In reply to OliBangbala:

That's not me on the Golden Yardstick - I've never been to Wildcat so guess it must be someone else with the same t-shirt as I was wearing when I climbed Scoop Wall.

Cheers, Luke.

Wft 14 Aug 2012

In reply to UKC Articles:

Posthumous mention to the classics at Staden Quarry, a great place for aspiring leaders of these grades:

Joint effort - as good a HVS as I've ever done, bomber gear all the way
Liquid courage - E1 on amazing small tufas
Cathy's clown - E2 with good gear and even better moves

Hopefully access will be restored, though I have noticed this hasn't stopped some people (!!)

Jon Stewart 14 Aug 2012

In reply to UKC Articles:

What no Chee Tor? Sergeyenna is possibly the best E1 on Peak limestone IMO, not to mention the neglected Two Sunspots which would be the best E2 were it not for High Tor.

Btw, I don't think I'd recommend Darius to "climbers for whom a rest involves a sandwich and cup of tea, not just a slightly bigger hold"!

Al Evans 14 Aug 2012

In reply to Jon Stewart: I think you need to add in Chee Tor Girdle and Pendulum at Stoney, I know they are girdles, and CTG has some crap early pitches, but overall, line. satisfaction etc they are supreme.

Removed User 14 Aug 2012

In reply to UKC Articles: Highlight (HVS) at High Tor is a particular favourite of mine. Strenuous, exposed and nearly a clip up. Best done in an epic oner...

Jonny2vests 14 Aug 2012

In reply to Brannock:

> (In reply to UKC Articles) Good list, great range of routes, always nice to see some peak limestone.
>
> Not sure Id put original route at High Tor up there, always found it a bit lose, polished and awkward. Id put John Peel (Dovedale) or Padme (Stoney, admittedly bit polished) as better at HVSs.

John, I'm astounded that you think John Peel is better than Original Route.

augustus trout 14 Aug 2012

In reply to UKC Articles: Medusa is not a "a little polished"

ripper 14 Aug 2012

In reply to GuyVG: What about Bicycle Repair Man and Nails?

Also, I haven't done it but thought George in Dovedale was supposedly one the best E1s on limestone?

Si dH 14 Aug 2012

In reply to UKC Articles:
Good list. Ive done them all except lynx and the ravensdale ones (never really done anything at ravensdale).
Would agree with what someone else said about Darius, and also add Scoop Wall. You need to be pretty serious about your climbing to get up these!

Ps original route is way better than those other Hvss someone mentioned. Padme?!?

Si dH 14 Aug 2012

In reply to ripper: yes George is brilliant.
Could have been some dovedale routes included, slight oversight?

Darron 15 Aug 2012

In reply to UKC Articles:

Not suggesting they would replace any of the routes in the article but a mention for:
Froth at Stoney
John Peel in Dovedale
Pothole wall at Willersley
Southern Rib in Dovedale
Pocket Symphony at Beeston

Christheclimber 15 Aug 2012

In reply to jonny2vests:

> (In reply to Brannock)
> [...]
>
> John, I'm astounded that you think John Peel is better than Original Route.

I'm astounded that he thinks Padme is better than Original route!

Brannock 15 Aug 2012

In reply to Darron:

> (In reply to UKC Articles)
>
> Not suggesting they would replace any of the routes in the article but a mention for:
> Froth at Stoney
> John Peel in Dovedale
> Pothole wall at Willersley
> Southern Rib in Dovedale
> Pocket Symphony at Beeston

Well at least someone else likes John Peel.

Simon Caldwell 15 Aug 2012

In reply to UKC Articles:
My favourites on Peak limestone at VS and below, allowing one per grade:
VS - Snakes Alive (Dovedale) (honorary mention to Froth at Stoney)
HS - Manx (Wildcat) - yes I know it gets VS 4b, but it shouldn't
S - Rosehip Wine (Stoney) - newly recleaned
VD - Lost Horizon (Stoney) - I really liked this, but my partner didn't and I don't know of anyone else ever having done it, so it may just be me
D - I'm told Mineshaft at Stoney is a good laugh. But I've not done it so it's got to be Elbow Ridge in Winnats Pass.

Probably some better ones I've forgotten, but the complete lack of a way to query the UKC logbooks database mean I have to rely on my failing memory.

Has anyone done Crack Jack at Wildcat? Used to be a *** VD. It's on my to-do list

Skyfall 15 Aug 2012

In reply to Toreador:

My favourite VS at Wildcat is Pupilla (a pull from a ledge through a buige onto a wall and then loads of threads). A quality route from Gary Gibson, strange I know..

deepsoup 15 Aug 2012

In reply to JonC:

> A quality route from Gary Gibson, strange I know..

There's no way anyone could put up that many routes without a few quality ones slipping through the net. ;O)

Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 15 Aug 2012

In reply to Toreador:

> (In reply to UKC Articles)
> My favourites on Peak limestone at VS and below, allowing one per grade:
> VS - Snakes Alive (Dovedale) (honorary mention to Froth at Stoney)
> HS - Manx (Wildcat) - yes I know it gets VS 4b, but it shouldn't
> S - Rosehip Wine (Stoney) - newly recleaned
> VD - Lost Horizon (Stoney) - I really liked this, but my partner didn't and I don't know of anyone else ever having done it, so it may just be me
> D - I'm told Mineshaft at Stoney is a good laugh. But I've not done it so it's got to be Elbow Ridge in Winnats Pass.
>
> Probably some better ones I've forgotten, but the complete lack of a way to query the UKC logbooks database mean I have to rely on my failing memory.
>
> Has anyone done Crack Jack at Wildcat? Used to be a *** VD. It's on my to-do list

That has just reminded me, I meant to put the Winnats ridges in Peak Limestone - but forgot - doh!

I have done Cracker Jack and few others 'over the wall' - all very good, and surprisingly polished.

Chris

Offwidth 16 Aug 2012

In reply to Toreador:

Did Cracker Jack (is that what you mean) about 20 years ago I vaguely remember it was fair at MS* and very vegetated to get to. When did it get the extra stars?

Lost Horizon was a no star VD with loose rock that scared my seconds.

I think the Winnat's Pass routes need care as a recommendation, as there is loose rock up there and you could inadvertantly kill someone driving below (the exception being when the road is closed in winter).

Simon Caldwell 16 Aug 2012

In reply to Offwidth:

> Did Cracker Jack (is that what you mean) about 20 years ago I vaguely remember it was fair at MS* and very vegetated to get to. When did it get the extra stars?

Yes that's the one. In the previous edition of the guidebook it was VD*** so it's lost a couple.

> Lost Horizon was a no star VD with loose rock that scared my seconds.

The finish (shared with Horizon) has been cleaned recently so there's less loose rock about. The rest of it seemed open to endless variation, so I may just have got lucky and chosen a line that wasn't too loose.
Not a lot in the way of protection though.

I think we'll have to agree to disagree about the risks of the Winnat's routes

Offwidth 16 Aug 2012

In reply to Toreador:

Its not really an argument about risks, its the landowners views that are more pertinent here: "The land is the property of the National Trust who do not wish the Pass to be used for climbing because of the possible hazard of falling rock to cars and pedestrians."

Simon Caldwell 16 Aug 2012

In reply to Offwidth:
There are plenty of landowners who'd rather that CROW didn't give us the right to climb on their land.

I don't think there was any suggestion that the rockfall which caused the temporary closure of the road a couple of years ago was caused by climbers.

Offwidth 16 Aug 2012

In reply to Toreador:

Sure but annoying a major landowner that we work a lot with as climbers by recommending routes that carry their own reputation anyway seems a bit like foot shooting to me. There is an extra risk to people on the orad below there if climbers use these routes, irrespective of other risks.

Also CRoW gives a right of access subject to a process that may develop agreed restrictions, it does not provide an unfettered right to climb.