UKC

Here's the next instalment of the BMC's Respect the Rock video series: Climbing in Portland. This popular area has issues with parking and overcrowding at crags. Whether you're new to climbing on rock or you're a seasoned outdoor expert, this video will give you some useful tips for respecting Portland's crags on your next trip there...

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Also like to add that there seems to be an increase in people leaving detritus behind, I'm sure it is rarely climbers, but if it is, that is not how to behave outdoors or anywhere for that matter. If you see rubbish laying around, please held to keep these fantastic venues clean by taking it away, even if it is not yours. 

Other thoughts:

I would add that a 60 metre rope is barely long enough  for some Portland routes. On climbs such as Pregnant Pause, or Lord Stublock an inattentive belayer could lower the leader off the end of the rope, so either take a 70 metre rope as I do or tie a knot in the end.

Beware caterpillar hairs. In spring Portland is infested with brown tail moth larvae caterpillars. They are covered in hairs that are toxic. The caterpillars shed their hairs  as they move around. If you touch hairs (e.g. by lying in the grass below the crag or brushing bare legs against vegetation) you will get a nasty rash. Over multiple visits you may (as I have) get sensitised to them and the rashes will get worse. At worst some residents suffer  breathing difficulties and have to go to hospital. To avoid them either climb by the sea or avoid the island in spring.

The tracks below some crags can become very muddy and slippy. Consider wearing approach shoes with some tread.

At the end of the video he mentions van and wild camping is illegal on Portland. 

Is it illegal to sleep in your van parked on a public road in Portland? 

No, it’s not illegal to sleep in your vehicle on a public road, but I guess they are referring people (like me pre lockdown) dossing at Cheyne Weares carpark. There’s a community of permanent homeless people now resident in Portland, at least four vans, and a couple sleeping in a Focus. The sign of things to come now with the recession looming...

Respect the rock on Portland - surely the stable door is open and that horse "bolted" in the 1990s?

(I don't know the emoticon for tongue in cheek)

Incorrect. A camper van or a vehicle equipped for sleeping, or a motorhome can be classed as a ‘caravan’ and thus cannot willy nilly be parked anywhere overnight, without landowners permission. A public road is owned by the council and some councils specifically prohibit this in problem areas. I would imagine Portland is one of those areas.

’illegal’ maybe not criminally, like trespass, probably just a civil offence but something a busybody could give you hassle for. 

It’s so easy to drive off the island, respect local wishes, and find a nice carpark on the mainland. Sets a good example for everyone else and with the added bonus of not risking  having your vehicle keyed or having to move at X:YZam.

You might find that you the incorrect here. That "can be" classed as caravan doesn't mean it is technically classed as caravan.  My van is van and it say so in the V5. You are just projecting here. I had many chats with Police patrols around the country about this, never had a problem, they've never moved me on. They normally check that you are ok or you are not doing drugs, the moment they see you are a climber cooking dinner or chilling they are just not bothered. If fact, once I was escorted by the police in Torquay, after a chat about dossing spots, to a bette spot they suggested, by the sea, it was a council carpark. They were super nice. Been using ever since. They can only move you on on public roads only if they have a reasonable complain by a member of the public, like peeing in public or littering (but I never have had one). I don't understand what you mean by trespassing a public road, I don't think that's technically possible. So according to your theory how do you explain the police being cool (I've seen them patrolling many times) with the community of permanent van lifers at the lookout parking in Portland? That bit of land is actually private and it does specifically say no overnight stay?. These guys live there permanently and they've been there on and off for a few years now, I've seen the old merc bus, the lutton, the lady form Wyke and the old sprinter dossing there over the last few years.