UKC

We have a short video of Craig Matheson climbing The Keswickian, E8 7a at Gouther Crags. The first ascent of the route was done by Adam Hocking in 2011 and has since been repeated by Jordan Buys and Dave MacLeod. The video shows Craig climbing a new left-hand finish using the arete, where previous ascentionists have climbed up the slab of One Step Beyond. 

Read more

In reply to UKC News:

Nice one... Great effort, and video good too. 

In reply to UKC News:

I'm a bit confused as to whether this is a new route or not?

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

It's a new left hand finish, branching out from the original, which went around the onto the face + right hand side of the arete to finish. Having watched the video this line looks a whole lot wilder, but I'll leave Craig to comment as I (clearly) haven't done either!

Here's a video of Adam on the FA of the original line, just to compare/contrast: https://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=654

In reply to UKC News:

Looks pretty terrifying (as it does on the other videos,at least he doesn't get the rope snagged....)

Does anyone know if the wallnut 4 that gets mentioned is reachable from One step beyond?

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Thanks. Was wondering if it'd get a new name and grade, or just be 'The Keswickian Left Hand Finish', same grade.

In reply to UKC News:

Thanks, really nice video. The overhang looks hard, and the arete looks absolutely desperate and committing

In reply to UKC News:

What a cracking video, from the "Matheson Bros" aka Craig and Pops ( Rob). Top  climbing effort Craig, belayed and filmed remotely by Rob.  A two man effort that is well produced in the professional way I would expect from you two. Keep on keeping on.

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Great to see this fun route getting some attention. If I'm honest, I thought the arete line was a bit forced but having watched the video that doesn't look to be the case. One thing I would say is that, on reflection, I downgraded the route to E7 but it's still being reported at the original grade. Not sure what craig's variation goes at, can't see it adding much but it might. Anyway great to see Craig cranking and getting the attention he deserves.

In reply to Adam Hocking:

Didn’t mean to come across as disparaging about the original line, if that is indeed how it came across - it’s clearly awesome too. 

I didn’t realise you’d downgraded it, but that’s interesting to know. Guess time + repeats will tell. 

Great to see such a strong start to the Lakeland Trad season!

In reply to UKC News:

I’d love to see it with that speeded up bit in real time.

In reply to UKC News:

Hi

Superb effort! Often looked at it, but that's as far as it goes...

But how does this get E8...? I've had VD's with far less gear...  

Cheers.

In reply to beds74:

Probably far less British 7a moves too, unless they’re particularly cruxy VDiffs 😉

Helmets are like condoms: everyone knows they increase safety but no one wants to be seen wearing one. It sure looks like a fall in the early part of the line will result in an impact on the wall below. It'd be easy to get caught in the rope, flip, end up with a life changing head injury. Why not wear a helmet? It's hard to tell the tale at the bar if you're a vegetable.