VIDEO: Craig Matheson climbs The Keswickian (E8 7a)

We have a short video of Craig Matheson climbing The Keswickian, E8 7a at Gouther Crags. The first ascent of the route was done by Adam Hocking in 2011 and has since been repeated by Jordan Buys and Dave MacLeod. The video shows Craig climbing a new left-hand finish using the arete, where previous ascentionists have climbed up the slab of One Step Beyond.

The UKC logbook entry describes the climb: The outrageously obvious and brutally hard direct start to One step Beyond through the blunt nose. Massive swing and even more massive rope drag possible from gear in the chimney.

Craig has had a productive year in the Lakes and last summer made the long awaited second ascent of Dave Birkett's Welcome to the Cruel World, the finger-searing crack line from 2002, on Scafell's East Buttress. He also took advantage of last summer's dry weather to climb several new routes on Pike of Blisco including Battle Star (E3 5c), Death Star (E4 6a), Super Star Destroyer (E5 6b) and Photon Torpedo (E7 6b). Over on Dow Crag, Craig also climbed the right-hand wall of Woodhouse's Pinnacle, a very overhanging arête. This feature became Prowess E7 6c.

Craig is sponsored by: Ocun


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12 Apr

Nice one... Great effort, and video good too.

12 Apr

I'm a bit confused as to whether this is a new route or not?

It's a new left hand finish, branching out from the original, which went around the onto the face + right hand side of the arete to finish. Having watched the video this line looks a whole lot wilder, but I'll leave Craig to comment as I (clearly) haven't done either!

Here's a video of Adam on the FA of the original line, just to compare/contrast: https://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=654

12 Apr

Looks pretty terrifying (as it does on the other videos,at least he doesn't get the rope snagged....)

Does anyone know if the wallnut 4 that gets mentioned is reachable from One step beyond?

12 Apr

Thanks. Was wondering if it'd get a new name and grade, or just be 'The Keswickian Left Hand Finish', same grade.

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