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American climber Alex Honnold has soloed The Phoenix (5.13a) in Yosemite.
"The Phoenix was something for me... I'm happy..."
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=62712
In reply to UKC News:
The 15 pitch route he soloed, did he clip into the bolt belays to rest? Shirley he didn't do the whole thing in one go?!
The 15 pitch route he soloed, did he clip into the bolt belays to rest? Shirley he didn't do the whole thing in one go?!
In reply to Dave 88: Based on past form I wouldn't be surprised if he did do it all in one go.
In reply to Dave 88:
It took him 2 h or so (source SuperTopo and/or Climbing), because he had to wait for the film-people to get into new postions for filming the climb... Alex didn't mention anything about resting on bolts, so I would assume he rested/waited on ledges or other proper rest spots...
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> The 15 pitch route he soloed, did he clip into the bolt belays to rest? Shirley he didn't do the whole thing in one go?!
>
> The 15 pitch route he soloed, did he clip into the bolt belays to rest? Shirley he didn't do the whole thing in one go?!
It took him 2 h or so (source SuperTopo and/or Climbing), because he had to wait for the film-people to get into new postions for filming the climb... Alex didn't mention anything about resting on bolts, so I would assume he rested/waited on ledges or other proper rest spots...
Sorry I am a bit confused, he didn't free solo here right? If not, how would you climb by yourself using ropes, I don't understand that
In reply to joljols: I'm fairly sure he free soloed both climbs
In reply to joljols:
no, it looks like he did free solo.
He really is that good.
(look up his past achievements of Half Dome, Moonlight Buttress, and OS or London Wall)
no, it looks like he did free solo.
He really is that good.
(look up his past achievements of Half Dome, Moonlight Buttress, and OS or London Wall)
In reply to JimboWizbo:
Yes he soled both climbs without ropes, and without resting by clipping into gear - this is what is meant be free soloing and is what he did on his historic solos of
Moonlight Buttress: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=43568
and Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome amongst others.
Although on his solo of the Nose, he pulled on gear.
Yes he soled both climbs without ropes, and without resting by clipping into gear - this is what is meant be free soloing and is what he did on his historic solos of
Moonlight Buttress: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=43568
and Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome amongst others.
Although on his solo of the Nose, he pulled on gear.
In reply to UKC News: This lad blows me away with the stuff he does, one of my climbing heros but I find myself asking how long can he keep getting away with this stuff? Hopefully the answer is forever
In reply to gcandlin:
Well, John Bachar got away with it for a good 30 years. Here's hoping that Honnold will get away with it for even longer!
Well, John Bachar got away with it for a good 30 years. Here's hoping that Honnold will get away with it for even longer!
In reply to UKC News: This man is on fire!
In reply to UKC News:
My fingertips usually p**s with sweat when I watch climbing videos, however watching or even reading about Honnold makes my stomach turn and my bum go funny!
My fingertips usually p**s with sweat when I watch climbing videos, however watching or even reading about Honnold makes my stomach turn and my bum go funny!
In reply to Zardoz:
I hope he gets away with it forever.
I'm in no way detracting from this and his many other awesome soloing and other climbing acheivements but am I the only one who thinks that this is all going to end one day- and not in a nice way? It makes me feel sick just thinking about the scale of these risks.
Please rope up and help my butterfly tummy settle down.
> (In reply to gcandlin)
>
> Well, John Bachar got away with it for a good 30 years. Here's hoping that Honnold will get away with it for even longer!
>
> Well, John Bachar got away with it for a good 30 years. Here's hoping that Honnold will get away with it for even longer!
I hope he gets away with it forever.
I'm in no way detracting from this and his many other awesome soloing and other climbing acheivements but am I the only one who thinks that this is all going to end one day- and not in a nice way? It makes me feel sick just thinking about the scale of these risks.
Please rope up and help my butterfly tummy settle down.
In reply to UKC News: I think Honnold is awesome - I just hope he lives to not regret these super-bold routes.
In reply to daveyw: When non climbers walk along stanage and see somebody soloing a severe, they probably think they are suicidal, and clearly about to die. When a severe climber sees somebody soloing an E1 they probably think the person is suicidal. Both of those climbers are operating well within their limit, and are comfortable that they are in control. This is no different. The bloke climbs 8c, and excels on granite. a 7c crack is not hard for him. He wouldnt do it if there was any chance of falling.
Incredible display.
Incredible display.
In reply to UKC News:
Honnald will run out of luck at some point! There is a strong positive correlation between top climbers that soloed regularly and top climbers that die. Its simple really just look at statistics!
Honnald will run out of luck at some point! There is a strong positive correlation between top climbers that soloed regularly and top climbers that die. Its simple really just look at statistics!
gcandlin:
daveyw:
wayno265:
quarryboy
It is interesting that this kind of news always attracts these kind of comments whereas alpine climbing or mountaineering (statistically far more likely to end in participant's death) reports never do.
> This lad blows me away with the stuff he does, one of my climbing heros but I find myself asking how long can he keep getting away with this stuff? Hopefully the answer is forever
daveyw:
> I the only one who thinks that this is all going to end one day- and not in a nice way? It makes me feel sick just thinking about the scale of these risks.
wayno265:
> I just hope he lives to not regret these super-bold routes.
quarryboy
> Honnald will run out of luck at some point!
It is interesting that this kind of news always attracts these kind of comments whereas alpine climbing or mountaineering (statistically far more likely to end in participant's death) reports never do.
In reply to Quarryboy:
Where can i see these statistics?
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
>Its simple really just look at statistics!>
Where can i see these statistics?
In reply to flaneur: From my point of view, it's because I'm not interested in Alpine climbing, so pay little or no attention to it.
There's no doubting that what he does is dangerous though, is there? And given that he's (to my limited knowledge) the only person soloing these sort of routes, there's not much statistical evidence to work with.
There's no doubting that what he does is dangerous though, is there? And given that he's (to my limited knowledge) the only person soloing these sort of routes, there's not much statistical evidence to work with.
In reply to wayno265:
> (In reply to flaneur) From my point of view, it's because I'm not interested in Alpine climbing, so pay little or no attention to it.
>
ditto.>
In reply to GDes:
Incredible display- Yes
"He wouldn't do it if no chance of falling"- ??? 15 pitches, 7c, there's no guarantees there
Incredible display- Yes
"He wouldn't do it if no chance of falling"- ??? 15 pitches, 7c, there's no guarantees there
In reply to daveyw: Who said anything about 15 pitch 7c's?
It was 15 pitch 5.11c (about 6c+), and a single pitch, I believe, 5.13a (7c+).
It was 15 pitch 5.11c (about 6c+), and a single pitch, I believe, 5.13a (7c+).
In reply to Richard Hall:
I didn't. It is a 15 pitch climb, graded at 7c is it not? Forgive my paraphrasing of the grade of the route.
My point was that I hope Alex continues forever, but this level of risk (and it is high, whether you split grade hairs or not) seems sickeningly high. We're not talking about a broken ankle on a bad landing.
I didn't. It is a 15 pitch climb, graded at 7c is it not? Forgive my paraphrasing of the grade of the route.
My point was that I hope Alex continues forever, but this level of risk (and it is high, whether you split grade hairs or not) seems sickeningly high. We're not talking about a broken ankle on a bad landing.
In reply to flaneur: Not that suprising though
In reply to daveyw:
Phoenix is the 5.13 and it's single pitch...
C-somehting was the 15 pitch climb, and it's 5.11
> (In reply to Richard Hall)
> I didn't. It is a 15 pitch climb, graded at 7c is it not? Forgive my paraphrasing of the grade of the route.
> I didn't. It is a 15 pitch climb, graded at 7c is it not? Forgive my paraphrasing of the grade of the route.
Phoenix is the 5.13 and it's single pitch...
C-somehting was the 15 pitch climb, and it's 5.11
In reply to daveyw:
NO! It is a 15 pitch climb graded 6c+.
My understanding was that he also soloed a single pitch 7c+.
I am not splitting hairs, this is completely different from soloing a 15 pitch 7c.
> (In reply to Richard Hall)
> I didn't. It is a 15 pitch climb, graded at 7c is it not? Forgive my paraphrasing of the grade of the route.
> I didn't. It is a 15 pitch climb, graded at 7c is it not? Forgive my paraphrasing of the grade of the route.
NO! It is a 15 pitch climb graded 6c+.
My understanding was that he also soloed a single pitch 7c+.
I am not splitting hairs, this is completely different from soloing a 15 pitch 7c.
In reply to Richard Hall:
He done that too:
Dave Birkett climbed Zion's Moonlight Buttress (V 5.12d; 1,200 feet) last autumn, one of his most satisfying climbs of 2007. When Birkett heard that the American climber, Alex Honnold, 22, had soloed Moonlight Buttress he could hardly believe it. He spent last night reliving the climb and imagining doing it without a rope. He found it hard to comprehend.
"It's an unbelievable ascent. I remember one pitch and it wasn't even the crux, rattley finger jams with nothing but big air below you. There's one pitch with an off-width body sized pod, I just can't imagine soloing that. I find this more impressive than the big granite solos in Yosemite because the sandstone in Zion is sometimes, well, sandy and insecure. Sometimes you have to change directions in the crack and rely on laybacking by your tips. Honnold's solo is one of the most impressive I've ever heard of - pitches of E4, E5 and E6 all stacked on top of each other "
> (In reply to daveyw)
> [...]
> [...]
> I am not splitting hairs, this is completely different from soloing a 15 pitch 7c.
He done that too:
Dave Birkett climbed Zion's Moonlight Buttress (V 5.12d; 1,200 feet) last autumn, one of his most satisfying climbs of 2007. When Birkett heard that the American climber, Alex Honnold, 22, had soloed Moonlight Buttress he could hardly believe it. He spent last night reliving the climb and imagining doing it without a rope. He found it hard to comprehend.
"It's an unbelievable ascent. I remember one pitch and it wasn't even the crux, rattley finger jams with nothing but big air below you. There's one pitch with an off-width body sized pod, I just can't imagine soloing that. I find this more impressive than the big granite solos in Yosemite because the sandstone in Zion is sometimes, well, sandy and insecure. Sometimes you have to change directions in the crack and rely on laybacking by your tips. Honnold's solo is one of the most impressive I've ever heard of - pitches of E4, E5 and E6 all stacked on top of each other "
In reply to GDes:
Shit does happen from time to time.
Totally agree. Honnold also always comes across as such a nice chap as well; none of the zen master California hippy crap that certain other masters of soloing who have since fallen from grace (and from climbs with base rig on) come out with. Just a nice lad doing something he loves. But I think that's why I'm coming round to the Ed Drummond position of please-quit-whilst-you're-ahead-Alex. It makes me feel old, but I worry for him!
I found reading this "The CH was something for them [the film crew], the Phoenix was something for me." He shouldn't be doing for anyone but himself. I actually saw him do the Moonlight Buttress solo on the Reel Rock tour (so in a cinema - very cool). Obviously I knew that he made it fine, but I felt quite uncomfortable watching it - thinking "is he doing that for me rather than for himself?"
> He wouldnt do it if there was any chance of falling.
Shit does happen from time to time.
> Incredible display.
Totally agree. Honnold also always comes across as such a nice chap as well; none of the zen master California hippy crap that certain other masters of soloing who have since fallen from grace (and from climbs with base rig on) come out with. Just a nice lad doing something he loves. But I think that's why I'm coming round to the Ed Drummond position of please-quit-whilst-you're-ahead-Alex. It makes me feel old, but I worry for him!
I found reading this "The CH was something for them [the film crew], the Phoenix was something for me." He shouldn't be doing for anyone but himself. I actually saw him do the Moonlight Buttress solo on the Reel Rock tour (so in a cinema - very cool). Obviously I knew that he made it fine, but I felt quite uncomfortable watching it - thinking "is he doing that for me rather than for himself?"
In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC:
Zion's Moonlight Buttress is actually only 11 pitches. So he still hasn't done 15, Ha
Zion's Moonlight Buttress is actually only 11 pitches. So he still hasn't done 15, Ha
In reply to Daniel Heath: I know about him free soloing the nose et al but in the article they don't state 'free solo' but just 'solo' and combined that with a picture of him carrying loads of gear. I know the term 'soloing' includes both free soloing as well as roped solo climbing, but got the impression he might have used ropes here.
In reply to GDes:
Similarly it has been argued that there wouldn't been nuclear reactors if there was any chance of things going wrong...
Great achievements and inspirational but too many don't get away with it if they solo over a longer period.
Similarly it has been argued that there wouldn't been nuclear reactors if there was any chance of things going wrong...
Great achievements and inspirational but too many don't get away with it if they solo over a longer period.
In reply to flaneur:
Really? How many other people are soloing multi-pitch 5.11 routes?
> It is interesting that this kind of news always attracts these kind of comments whereas alpine climbing or mountaineering (statistically far more likely to end in participant's death) reports never do.
Really? How many other people are soloing multi-pitch 5.11 routes?
In reply to Ben Thorne:
Ha! Made me laugh aloud in a well known coffee retail outlet. Nice one.
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> My fingertips usually p**s with sweat when I watch climbing videos, however watching or even reading about Honnold makes my stomach turn and my bum go funny!
>
> My fingertips usually p**s with sweat when I watch climbing videos, however watching or even reading about Honnold makes my stomach turn and my bum go funny!
Ha! Made me laugh aloud in a well known coffee retail outlet. Nice one.
In reply to UKC News: Just look at the picture of him at the top of the page. He's not falling off anything anytime soon.
In reply to UKC News:
Wouldn't it be bigger news if he DIDN'T solo something in Yosemite?
Wouldn't it be bigger news if he DIDN'T solo something in Yosemite?
In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC:
Nice quote, thanks. Great to hear Birkett's thoughts on things like this.
Nice quote, thanks. Great to hear Birkett's thoughts on things like this.
In reply to Wide_Mouth_Frog: Yep, but imagine the hundreds of climbs he doesn't solo every day. There'd be no room for other news!
In reply to GDes:
I actually suspect it is different. I would have thought there comes a point when fingerholds/jams and footholds are so small that even a climber very comfortable with the moves at this sort of grade is more likely to have a hand or foot pop unexpectedly than someone equally comfortable on the moves on a severe or E1. Not to mention the presumably increased risks of something tiny snapping. Then again, maybe someone who operates at this sort of level will come along and tell me I am wrong!
But whatever, the video of Honnold soloing Moonlight Buttress was possibly the most mind-blowing thing I have ever (only just managed) to watch!
> (In reply to daveyw) When non climbers walk along stanage and see somebody soloing a severe, they probably think they are suicidal, and clearly about to die. When a severe climber sees somebody soloing an E1 they probably think the person is suicidal. Both of those climbers are operating well within their limit, and are comfortable that they are in control. This is no different.
I actually suspect it is different. I would have thought there comes a point when fingerholds/jams and footholds are so small that even a climber very comfortable with the moves at this sort of grade is more likely to have a hand or foot pop unexpectedly than someone equally comfortable on the moves on a severe or E1. Not to mention the presumably increased risks of something tiny snapping. Then again, maybe someone who operates at this sort of level will come along and tell me I am wrong!
But whatever, the video of Honnold soloing Moonlight Buttress was possibly the most mind-blowing thing I have ever (only just managed) to watch!
In reply to UKC News:
Does he onsight these things solo? or is he familiar with the harder ones before he 'bags and tags em'...
Not being pedantic like, just wondering?
Anyway, whichever way it's unfolding, this guy is setting the bar extremely high in terms of testicle size...
I too can't help thinking whether or when it's gonna be a good idea to settle down a bit and push some boundaries regarding what's possible in terms of difficulty in safety.
Anyway, meantime, rock on... You are sick sick sick rad dude Al!!!
Does he onsight these things solo? or is he familiar with the harder ones before he 'bags and tags em'...
Not being pedantic like, just wondering?
Anyway, whichever way it's unfolding, this guy is setting the bar extremely high in terms of testicle size...
I too can't help thinking whether or when it's gonna be a good idea to settle down a bit and push some boundaries regarding what's possible in terms of difficulty in safety.
Anyway, meantime, rock on... You are sick sick sick rad dude Al!!!
In reply to Cragrat Rich:
They are pre-practised.
Honnold had spent two days working on The Phoenix, and he had climbed CH already twice this season. Regarding why he wanted to free solo The Phoenix, he said, "I thought I could do it, so I figured I might as well. It's a pretty amazing route, and the waterfall below it is raging right now. It's a special place."
http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/honnold_free_solos_the_phoenix_513a...
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
>
> Does he onsight these things solo? or is he familiar with the harder ones before he 'bags and tags em'...
>
> Not being pedantic like, just wondering?
>
>
> Does he onsight these things solo? or is he familiar with the harder ones before he 'bags and tags em'...
>
> Not being pedantic like, just wondering?
They are pre-practised.
Honnold had spent two days working on The Phoenix, and he had climbed CH already twice this season. Regarding why he wanted to free solo The Phoenix, he said, "I thought I could do it, so I figured I might as well. It's a pretty amazing route, and the waterfall below it is raging right now. It's a special place."
http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/honnold_free_solos_the_phoenix_513a...
In reply to flaneur:
-- you are absolutely wrong there. there are very few people who do hard solos, while there are lots of people who do hard alpine routes. so just counting how many people are reported to have had unfortunate incidents isnt a good comparision.
> gcandlin:
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> daveyw:
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> wayno265:
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> quarryboy
>
> [...]
>
>
> It is interesting that this kind of news always attracts these kind of comments whereas alpine climbing or mountaineering (statistically far more likely to end in participant's death) reports never do.
>
> [...]
>
> daveyw:
>
> [...]
>
> wayno265:
>
> [...]
>
> quarryboy
>
> [...]
>
>
> It is interesting that this kind of news always attracts these kind of comments whereas alpine climbing or mountaineering (statistically far more likely to end in participant's death) reports never do.
-- you are absolutely wrong there. there are very few people who do hard solos, while there are lots of people who do hard alpine routes. so just counting how many people are reported to have had unfortunate incidents isnt a good comparision.
In reply to UKC News:
i wonder if he would have the balls to solo one of those polished VS in avon.. heh.
i wonder if he would have the balls to solo one of those polished VS in avon.. heh.
In reply to dror: While thats technically correct, if you look at the proportion of people who are/were known for their frequent hard solos that are now dead the numbers arent favorable.
In reply to tony:
Not sure, but Reardon (RIP), Bachar (RIP), Croft, Auer and Huber have... Most likely quite a few others as well, that ain't big names and just go out and climb.
> Really? How many other people are soloing multi-pitch 5.11 routes?
Not sure, but Reardon (RIP), Bachar (RIP), Croft, Auer and Huber have... Most likely quite a few others as well, that ain't big names and just go out and climb.
In reply to flaneur:
>>
The difference for me is that in most forms of climbing, you're doing what you can to reduce the risk and climbing in the safest manner possible. Soloists are accepting a higher risk in exchange for something that's harder to understand.
>>
> It is interesting that this kind of news always attracts these kind of comments whereas alpine climbing or mountaineering (statistically far more likely to end in participant's death) reports never do.
The difference for me is that in most forms of climbing, you're doing what you can to reduce the risk and climbing in the safest manner possible. Soloists are accepting a higher risk in exchange for something that's harder to understand.
In reply to SuperstarDJ:
Greater fulfilment.
Mick
> (In reply to flaneur)
> Soloists are accepting a higher risk in exchange for something that's harder to understand.
Greater fulfilment.
Mick
In reply to remus:
But are you sure you counted all the hard soloists who didn't die soloing? The accidents naturally tend to be better remembered than those who quit while they were ahead....
> (In reply to dror) While thats technically correct, if you look at the proportion of people who are/were known for their frequent hard solos that are now dead the numbers arent favorable.
But are you sure you counted all the hard soloists who didn't die soloing? The accidents naturally tend to be better remembered than those who quit while they were ahead....
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