In reply to broc:
Haha! believe it or not I don't go out of my way to climb loose rock! if routes have unpredictable rock then I try & deal with it as best I can, I have had some pretty big falls on snappy rock over the years & luckily managed to get away with it, this style of climbing has a strange attraction, If you sit down & ponder on it for too long its obvious that its not sensible, yet the drive to use all of your mental & physical skills to push things as close to the line as possible is strong & has its rewards, managing fear is the key, without the ability to "keep a lid on a boiling pot" their is no way you can stay in control physically...Is the body taking the mind on a journey or is the mind taking the body!
With regards to "Breakaway" its not on my tick list, my personal motivation comes from being inspired by strong natural lines & I still have some great looking new routes up my sleeve yet ; )
Glad you enjoyed it, All the best. Stu.