UKC

NEWS: Impact Day E9 Climbed Twice Today by George Ullrich

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 Michael Ryan 17 Feb 2008
On Valentine's Day we reported that 19 year old George Ullrich of Kendal made a Valentine's Day ascent of Dave Birkett's Dawes Rides a Shovel Head E8 6c on Raven Crag, Langdale.

George told UKClimbing.com that day, that he planned to go and take a look at another Dave Birkett route, Impact Day E9 7a.........and he did, just four hours ago

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: I saw him practicing it when we were doing Astra yesterday. We backed off though to give him some space and to get to the warm side. It was freezing on the eastern buttress.

Proper good effort and what an amazing achievement in febuary. I'll buy him a pint if i see him again (if he's not in training).
 Alex Roddie 17 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:
Wow, he must've enjoyed the route to want to go back and do it again!

Amazing effort.
 DaveWarb 17 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: It was Frezzing and he obviously wasn't put off by the sheep incident (exploded after tumbling down Pavey). I imagine it is quite common in the lakes but it was rather sobering!
gingermonkey 17 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Good job George! Not once but twice.....Jeez!

Jason
 Peter Walker 17 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: Slight error in your news report there Mick. To quoth:

"Last October Dave MacLeod, intent on repeating all Dave Birkett's hard trad routes in the Lakes, made the probable second ascent of Impact Day proposing a grade of E8 6c."

Some bloke called Dunne has this entry in his climbing CV on his website...

"Age 31 : 1999 : In April visited California and Nevada climbing at Joshua Tree, Yosemite, Bishop Red Rocks and Zion. Made the 2nd ascent of Impact Day, E8 6c on Pavey Ark, Langdale.Spent August and September attempting new line on Great Gable."

 Michael Ryan 18 Feb 2008
In reply to Peter Walker:

Cheers Peter, updated.

And talked with George earlier, so will update again.
 Hardonicus 18 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: Great to see some Lakeland hard trad repeats.

Mcleod and Dunne both give Impact Day E8? Has George any opinion?

Not that it really matters, primo effort and decent style, two's up and all!
 Michael Ryan 18 Feb 2008
In reply to Hardonicus:

Just updated the report but will ask him - seeing as he did his first E8 on Thursday he hasn't much to compare with!
In reply to Hardonicus: I havent really got much of a clue really, as Mick said Dawes was my first E8 and dont have much to compare it to. I did find impact day considerably harder than 'Dawes rides a shovel head', but probably not bold enough to break into E9, so would hazard a guess of E8 6c.
J1234 18 Feb 2008
In reply to climbinggeorge123:
Well done, good effort, now get your logbook updated.
Cheers Beds
In reply to climbinggeorge123: have you got anything planned for today?
In reply to Franco Cookson: Wish i could be making the most out of the weather. Working down in london for the next few days, and havent got any days off this week. Hope the weather holds for the weekend. Would like to go and play on 'peppered Boursin' on Bright Beck crag.
In reply to climbinggeorge123: unlucky. Can't you get sponsered or owt?
 Michael Ryan 18 Feb 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:
> (In reply to climbinggeorge123) unlucky. Can't you get sponsered or owt?

Franco

There are different levels of sponsorship, well in the UK there is basically only one with a few exceptions and that is newsworthy climbers getting gear off a company.....it doesn't pay the bills.

If they do get gear they have to work for it, keep in the news, provide photos of the product in action, represent the company or brand at trade shows and outdoor shops.

Basically the next level if you are really switched on is working for the actual company.

Hardly anyone gets paid just to climb.

Most of the UK's top climbers have proper jobs to pay the bills.

Climbing isn't popular....there's hardly any money in it unless you work damn hard.

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: that's me told. ill have to work on my E13 7c climbing then.
 Michael Ryan 18 Feb 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC) that's me told. ill have to work on my E13 7c climbing then.

Consider what Dave MacLeod said here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=771

"My plan for 2008 is to wind down my work a bit at the end of the spring so I can go climbing a lot more this summer. I've done loads of work and little climbing for the past couple of years to get myself to a better position. So hopefully I can start to tip the balance back in favour of climbing again. I don't have any firm plans for routes - it's not really possible to do that in Scotland and not get frustrated. I'll just try hard on whatever is in good condition."

Many talented climbers these days, like Leo Houlding and Tim Emmett, use climbing as a springboard to real money - making films and corporate lectures.

Consider people like Neil Gresham, they make their money from running climbing Masterclasses.

Mick

 Skyfall 18 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

> Many talented climbers these days, like Leo Houlding and Tim Emmett, use climbing as a springboard to real money - making films and corporate lectures.

And Audi sponsorship...

If only I pay them!
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: I think I'm just going to be a lower- E-grade climbing bum, who dosses wround chamonix and washes up in the odd resturant. I recon it'll be reet.
 Michael Ryan 18 Feb 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC) I think I'm just going to be a lower- E-grade climbing bum, who dosses wround chamonix and washes up in the odd resturant. I recon it'll be reet.

That's right, it's about the experience (out in the mountains with friends, going for it, at whatever level) - not how much publicity or gear or money you get from it or what others think of you.

Experiences and friends last a lifetime.

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: that lifetime might only be 20 years though if one lived in chamonix.
 Michael Ryan 18 Feb 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC) that lifetime might only be 20 years though if one lived in chamonix.

Do you know the Alex McIntyre quote about living one day as a tiger?
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: no, can't say I do.
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: and I thought you weren't meant to quote the entire origional message?
 Michael Ryan 18 Feb 2008
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC) and I thought you weren't meant to quote the entire origional message?

I think he got it from an old Tibetan proverb,

"In this world I would rather live two days like a tiger, than two hundred years like a sheep."

Maybe it is on his gravestone.

 DaveWarb 18 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:
> [...]
>
> I think he got it from an old Tibetan proverb,
>
> "In this world I would rather live two days like a tiger, than two hundred years like a sheep."
>
>

Sheep on Pavey don't last that long unfortunately!
In reply to DaveWarb: iy, lol. not so funny though.

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