UKC

NEWS FLASH: MacLeod Makes Winter Ascent of Summer E8

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 UKC News 26 Feb 2010
[Anubis Topo, 1 kb]"Quite unexpectedly, I managed to complete my long term ambition to make the first winter ascent of my own summer E8, Anubis on Ben Nevis. The number of hours to finish the lead might just be countable on one hand, and completely exhausted me for the following three days. In other words, I completely went for it."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=52129
In reply to UKC News: Astounding. Forgive my ignorance o UKC but is this unprecedented?
 Only a hill 26 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News:
That's just ... beyond words! What an achievement!
 viking 26 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News:

That is amazing and inspiring!
 mav 26 Feb 2010
In reply to Manos de Piedra:
I think that the hardest summer route to have received a winter repeat is E4. Until last week!
 Will Hunt 26 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Climb of the decade already? This is off the scale!
 catt 26 Feb 2010
In reply to gabriel_m:

musings on his blog. Effort Dave!
 Andy Nisbet 26 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Gobsmacking!
 220bpm 26 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Quite simply, wtf!

Had read he was getting close on a new project, guess this is it!

 stevez 26 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Can't even comprehend this, having looked at The Hurting this week which is only E4!!!
 George Ormerod 26 Feb 2010
In reply to stevez:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Can't even comprehend this

And there's me bricking it at the sight of a grade V!

Fantastic.
 Tall Clare 26 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Blimey!Surely this raises the bar so far that even getting up to the bar is going to be a significant route?
 Facewest.co.uk 26 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News: Blimey, what an effort!
 melonmike 26 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Yeah but what's he done in the Alps and greater ranges...
 James Moyle 26 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News: My brain doesn't have a compartment to put this piece of information: I would like to coin a word; unpigeonholeable.
hommer 26 Feb 2010
In reply to melonmike: yip what has he done there?
 Andrew Smith 26 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News: Dave is such an inspiration. Fantastic acheivments in all aspects of climbing.
 Michael Ryan 26 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News:

My favourite quote on Dave's blog,

"The route started as an idea to see if it was possible today to maintain the Victorian mountaineering tradition of opening a new climb in summer conditions, and progressing to an ascent in winter."

Incredible Dave. Well done.

Mick
 lex 26 Feb 2010
In reply to Tall Clare:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Blimey!Surely this raises the bar so far that even getting up to the bar is going to be a significant route?


You've summed up such an incredible achievemnt very well indeed...

Lex
In reply to UKC News:

astonishing stuff, my jaw hit the desk when i read this, good work ...

gregor
 Mr Fuller 26 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News: I think the problem with this sort of thing is that mere mortals cannot even imagine quite how hard this actually is. I for one cannot begin to fathom the pain one would have to go through on such a route.
 JLS 26 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News:

E8 you say! I wonder if Stevie Haston'll go for a quick repeat?
 Jones 26 Feb 2010
In reply to JLS:
With such an incredible effort to make this route a possibility I don't imagine there are many capable of a repeat.
A Herculean Effort! Good Work Fella!
 JLS 26 Feb 2010
In reply to Jones:

Reading the blog I gather dave see's this are more as nudging the bar up a bit rather than puting it on the moon. While the E8 number makes a good headline I'm not sure how much it really tells you much about a winter grade. Plate glass with spaced mono's is going to go easier with axes than fingers!

 Andy S 26 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News: seriously though, I actually can't get my head around how he's climbed this.
 lynx3555 26 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News: Dave MacLeod? more like the immortal Connor MacLeod of the clan MacLeod!
 Wee Davie 27 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Words fail me, but well done Dave!
 petestack 27 Feb 2010
In reply to JLS:
> While the E8 number makes a good headline I'm not sure how much it really tells you much about a winter grade. Plate glass with spaced mono's is going to go easier with axes than fingers!

Let's see you repeat it then (yes, I know that's not quite what you meant)!

Another fantastic effort from Dave.
 Erik B 27 Feb 2010
In reply to JLS:ignoring the E8 bit can you imagine climbing snowed up E5 6a face climbing?!!!

superb achievement Dave
 Offwidth 27 Feb 2010
In reply to Erik B:

Although its mind boggling, people need to be careful about linking grades in this way. As an example, cracks too thin for fingers might give torque or hook placements. Irrespective of that, snowed up E5 6a face climbing is bloody amazing.

indeed, a superb acheivement Dave.
 franksnb 27 Feb 2010
nice one, did all that and still found time to stick my book in the post!
 ginger_lord 27 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News:

The more I read of Hastons comments the more I feel the urge to plant my head into my desk. At speed.
In reply to mark mcgowan01:

I love Stevie Haston, climbing needs more like him.
 Pete Main 27 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News: some effort although poor show. Moves memorised looking at pictures where is the ice or snow surlely for an ice climb to be such there at least needs to be some. I'm sure he's a great guy and the dedication he show's is rarely seen but bashing a route into submission is hardly new. I think he should try cutting his teeth in the greater ranges. The climbing community will be changing the winter grades to come into line with summer grading because some mega hard tooled routes are nothing but summer climbed with axes and crampons.
 ab tat 27 Feb 2010
In reply to Pete Main:
What are you badgering on about??
petejh 27 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News: Reading Stevie Haston while really stoned is tops. The man can write and what he writes is interesting to read. It's also about time you Scots developed drytooling in the mountains, what took you so long?
 Michael Ryan 27 Feb 2010
In reply to Pete Main:
> (In reply to UKC News) The climbing community will be changing the winter grades to come into line with summer grading because some mega hard tooled routes are nothing but summer climbed with axes and crampons.

Never Ever Say Never VIII 8 or E7 5c, (whichever you prefer) by Dave Birkett

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=51628

 vincentvega 27 Feb 2010
In reply to Pete Main:

Surley the thread you have started yourself is the place to keep your thoughts and comments, not on a informative news thread.

And a mind boggling effort by Dave, cant even begin to think about it!


Allan
 ab tat 27 Feb 2010
In reply to Toreador:

Looks pretty wintry to me:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S4fOWURuuCI/AAAAAAAACHs/qklCYvdlgSs/s...

Guess the thing with theses super steep routes is that they ain't ever gonna look mega white apart from in exceptional conditions.. And, don't know about anyone else, but the idea of climbing that route and the whiter section above (which is still nails) with nowt but stickies and a chalk bag would'nt be my cup of tea, and I imagine not many other folks idea of fun..
 The Pylon King 27 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News:


Are there any hard Winter climbs that need a Summer ascent?
 3leggeddog 27 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Chapeau Dave
 Pete Main 27 Feb 2010
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: What a line!! Dave Birkett's line was a stand out line that cannot fail to inspire a Winter climber.

Anyway I made my comment on the winter climbers thread and shall keep my views for the correct forum.
As a piece of climbing Dave Macleod's line is summer line climbed with tools, great and good luck to hin.
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