UKC

It was the best of days. Early 1996, just getting into climbing, learning to become competent, in a beautiful location with a partner who is no longer here, leaving only fond memories and those growing more vague with time. A crag where a school friend would piss in someones boots at a later date, with me getting the blame and a place where I'd visit to pay homage on the biggest day of climbing I'd ever have.

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In reply to UKC Articles:

Fantastic. Really brings home how those simple days at the crag, with friends and family and good climbing, are so bloody special.  

In reply to UKC Articles:

A really nice read, made even better by the fact that I've still never been there.  It is on my list to visit!  Great to hear some stories of Ray, who we used to chat to back in the 70's and 80's.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Great article. It’s on my bucket list! I also used to chat to Ray a lot in the 70’s as we spent a lot of time in the Lakes coming down from Ayrshire. I remember his dog well as it was the same name as all my Scots pals called me… Seumas, I recall having a discussion with Ray as to the spelling and we eventually agreed to differ😄

In reply to UKC Articles:

Lovely route, lead it quite a few years ago now. But I still think that Sergeant Crag Gully is harder.

I remember watching Ray soloing something on Shepherds. The young lad I was with had no idea who he was, reckoned it must be easy. He found out, when he came to second me on the same route  that his judgement was somewhat adrift.

John

In reply to UKC Articles:

I visited this crag back in the 80's/90's I think.  Only went the once and blitzed the crag.  I can relate to the amount of gear required.  I used every last piece on one of the extremes to the right (I seem to recall descending and recovering a couple of pieces for higher up) and got told off by my mate for not putting enough gear in.  He had more than me and got even more in. Little crag but packs a big punch with regard to quality. One of my most memorable climbing days with very enjoyable climbing that suited my strengths.

In reply to UKC Articles:

James, your dad taught me to climb 40+ years ago. This lovely article brings back that first day climbing with him as if it were yesterday.

I had climbed once before on a CCF outward bound course. When a family holiday to Borrowdalecame round, I told my parents that it was the heart of Lakeland climbing. They went into the Tourist Information Centre in Keswick, and asked if there was a local guide who could take me out. They gave my folks your dad's number.

I still vividly remember that first day climbing with your dad. We got dropped off underneath Brown Slabs at Shepherds, and we worked our way along the crag. We did 10 routes that day, starting on brown Slabs, and then including Adam, Eve, Ardus, Kransic Crack, Scorpion and Little Chamonix. Not sure what the others were. It was a fabulous day out, finishing at the Cafe at the other end of Shepherds Crag.

I had 3 further days with him that week. One at Black Crag (Troutdale Pinnacle), one at Lower Falcon, and one somewhere up Honnister Pass. An amazing week.

In reply to UKC Articles:

My first HVS too, a year ago. And one of the most pure "type 1" fun pitches I've ever climbed. I was very nervous at the beginning but from the moment I set off I found the moves, position, line, entire bliss. The crack up the route takes about as much gear as you can carry but I don't remember lacing it. Climbed my first E1 multipitch (on second) straight afterwards.

Really keen to return to the crag as there are several other classics to get on ( Aphasia (E2 5b) anyone?) but really, I want the LC experience again!

In reply to John Gresty: lovely article and it made me remember a very similar story from probably a few years later  . We were  at SCS and caff was climbing with his then girlfriend / parneter , by then he had almost certainly soloed every route on the crag several times . Just after caff had set off up aphasia a team arrived plonked there sacs down and watched him dance up the route placing a couple of bits of gear , probably to make the rope run nicely . The young (20 s - young to us ) lad then loudly announced - “ I’ll do that , it looks easy “ . as we were packing up My mate attempted to point out  that how hard or easy somebody made a route looked  of course largely depends  on how good they are and that “  he “ ( caff ) was quiet good and that the  grade was fair , but the young lad was not interested . As the pub was beckoning we never found out what ensued .  

In reply to UKC Articles:

Precious memories. Thanks for sharing.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Brilliant,  really enjoyed the read last night.

Cheers

In reply to UKC Articles:

Nice article. The crag was a great find, and it is amazing that it remained unknown and unclimbed until such a late date. It must rank as one of Lakeland’s best in terms of rock quality, number of classic lines, number of starred routes, location, even accessibility. LC must be without equal as the best HVS for a first lead at the grade, with, as others have noted, more gear than you could shake a stick at. This route is Mrs Wilko’s one and only HVS lead, of which she is very proud. 

In reply to UKC Articles:

I have great memories of an unforgettable day at that exquisite crag too. Really enjoyed reading yours. Thanks.

In reply to UKC Articles:

A lovely tribute, and a perfect addition to this excellent series. Ukc at it's best. 

In reply to Derek Furze:

Exactly. Nice article and what a wonderful  main photo of a route and crag that I'd hardly ever heard of. If I ever got into climbing again I think that route would go to top place in my wish list.

In reply to Tom Valentine:

Well, everyone I climb with has 'done' Sergeant Crag Slabs, so do shout if you fancy it!

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks for the offer, Derek, it's much appreciated. 

In reply to Anhibian:

My description of it from my log book was:

Brilliant! Well worth it! Bit run out at times but never felt excessively dangerous, just pumpy on the calves!

It's quite sustained in the first 2 thirds (lots of 4c/5a with some 5b moves as well), the climbing is utterly fantastic. I think I may have sat on the ledge for a minute or so to help my calves depump before finishing the route. It's one of very few E2s which I've led (8 in total).

In reply to spenser:

Re: Aphasia, IIRC, there's groundfall potential as you move right and upward, after the initial overlap. Quite a long section of probably 5a, maybe a move or two of 5b if my memory is accurate, getting further and further from gear, before gaining a crack with good gear again.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Really enjoyed this.  Thank you James.

40-odd years ago, we started going to the Lakes every Easter.  A highlight for me was to go to Ray's Lake District in Winter slide show at Moot Hall at Keswick.  I wanted to see it every year, until my family started rolling their eyes and firmly telling me we couldn't.  Eventually I almost knew the script that he used.  His talk, along with the photos of him soloing Little Chamonix in roller skates and boxing gloves were instrumental in getting me properly interested in our crazy hobby.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Great that Caff. I remember having an absolute shocker on MGC about 30 years ago and your dad was sat at the back commenting on my every mistake. Great stuff!

E

In reply to Enty:

MGC!!!

'nuff said!