UKC

NEWS: New Dubh Loch E9 7a by Jules Lines - Magrathea

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 UKC News 15 Aug 2016
Jules trying the Magrathea line back in 2014, 3 kbJulian Lines has finished-off his long-term project on the Dubh Loch's False Gully Wall, naming it Magrathea and grading it at a weighty E9 7a. The three-pitch line includes two British 6a pitches following the crux pitch, which Jules claims are just as worthy as the first, describing the 2nd in particular as boasting "delightful, absolutely lovely climbing."

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In reply to UKC News:

What a legend.
 Smelly Fox 15 Aug 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Really inspiring route, and a great interview.

It's one of my favourite crags in the world, although it scares the crap out of me!
 Steve Perry 15 Aug 2016
In reply to UKC News:

I was lucky enough to belay Jules on the route and have to say what I saw him do on that slab pitch was extraordinary. You can't see the holds on photos and you can barely see them belaying.
Balls of steel and a technical climbing genius.

 gaz.marshall 15 Aug 2016
In reply to Steve Perry:

Slab? Cubby's pics look somewhat less than slabby!
Nice one Jules.
 Steve Perry 15 Aug 2016
In reply to gaz.marshall: Yes, maybe a blank wall is more appropriate, unless you can can call something that steep a slab?

 Will Hunt 15 Aug 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Sounds like a fierce new route.
The interview reads a bit like a phone conversation that's been transcribed word for word. It's nice to hear Jules' "voice" come through in the interview, but it can be a bit hard to follow at times and the text isn't quite coherent in the way it might be if you actually heard Jules talking? Could be useful to apply some careful editing? The Dave Birkett interview from a few weeks ago was the same.
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 Andy Nisbet 15 Aug 2016
In reply to Will Hunt:

I really liked the interview. It was the man himself speaking, not a sensationalised or sanitised version.
 whistler 15 Aug 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Excellent interview and an inspiring story. One of the best mountain crags in Scotland surely?

 Michael Gordon 15 Aug 2016
In reply to whistler:

> One of the best mountain crags in Scotland surely?

and therefore Britain
In reply to Will Hunt:

Just you wait till I transcribe and publish an uncut telephone interview with a 68 year-old Glaswegian tomorrow...
 Will Hunt 15 Aug 2016
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

As I said, it's nice to hear the man's voice, but a bit of punctuation mightn't go amiss is all.
 Smelly Fox 15 Aug 2016
In reply to Will Hunt:

For what it's worth I agree with you a bit there Will. A simple case of paragraphs being too long. You could have kept it exactly the same words there, but made it much easier to read on a smallish screen by framing the points better.

Nitpicking...
 Reach>Talent 16 Aug 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Given the woeful state of the galactic economy I wouldn't have thought Magrathea would be viable at the moment.
In reply to Reach>Talent:

> Given the woeful state of the galactic economy I wouldn't have thought Magrathea would be viable at the moment.

Do they do custom crags? Maybe the BMC could commission a copy of the whole of Dubh Loch for somewhere a bit flat and further south.
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In reply to Dave Garnett:

> Do they do custom crags? Maybe the BMC could commission a copy of the whole of Dubh Loch for somewhere a bit flat and further south.

And near the road. With a cafe.
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 Offwidth 16 Aug 2016
In reply to Steve Perry:

Well done to you as well. Jules' talent is obvious but it seems you really helped him from that interview.
 Steve Perry 16 Aug 2016
In reply to Offwidth:

Ta.
In reply to planetmarshall:
> And near the road. With a cafe.

But even then it would rapidly become neglected and lichenous judging by things in the Lakes. Good mountain crags seem to be a bit wasted on southerners.
Post edited at 22:20
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 Wry Gob 16 Aug 2016
In reply to whistler:

"One of the best mountain crags in Scotland"

Certainly one of The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland...


2
 Goucho 16 Aug 2016
In reply to Robert Durran:

> But even then it would rapidly become neglected and lichenous judging by things in the Lakes. Good mountain crags seem to be a bit wasted on southerners.

Bolt it and put a roof over it. Job done!
 BrendanO 17 Aug 2016
In reply to planetmarshall:

> And near the road. With a cafe.

...and away from the two guys who gave it dislikes. Possibly add some yoofs with airguns, stones, and minimotos to keep the hordes away (or mention that in the guidebook, like Rosyth Quarry)

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