/ FRI NIGHT VID: Pete Whittaker - Rope Soloing El Capitan
Has anyone here got any experience of the silent partner set up? Is it reliable enough that it feels comparable to a human belayer or is it more that you don't plan on falling on it?
that was ridiculously good, more of pete please!
excellent little film
Almost two years later, I still find it almost unbelievable that he did this (obviously he did!) Back in the 1990s, two of the strongest guys I ever met got shut down on this route. (I think they made a film about it.) To rope-solo it in under 24 hours seems... beyond the beyond.
His final comments: perhaps it wasn't hard enough... Well, maybe. But to keep it together through so much hard climbing in such different styles, with so much brutal effort, fighting the 'I'm so f*cked, I don't know what I'm doing any longer' feeling...
Something else. This really is something else.
The Silent Partner is the standard device for rope soloing, and the most current (but not made anymore) one designed for it. Lots and lots of falls taken on them without any failures as far as I know (apart from a few cases involving very low temperatures, which the instructions tell you to avoid). Its an inertial reel set up like a seat belt. You usually back up any rope soloing with knots tied back in to you so that at worst you fall to the knot. Pete didn't use knots to speed things up, so that gives you an idea how much faith he had in the device.
Bravo. Best film I have seen in a long time and also an inspiring achievement.
Totally awesome! The mental strength to do this is mind-boggling.
Incredible...what and amazing feat of climbing skill courage and determination that rightly deserves its place in the history books, many congratulations Pete Whitttaker.
Given that this device isnt made anymore, what are people using now...the webiste had an add for this https://www.cotswoldoutdoor.com/p/petzl-pro-traxion-pulley-F1742022.html?channable=e15806.NDA5OTRfMTUx&colour=151&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkaStqOe52gIVzrXtCh2mFw-cEAYYASABEgINBPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Could be great for getting out and leading routes when you've no partner
This copy and paste from the link might be a clue why not .
Superb. Amazing achievement and a terrific film. Until I watched that I had not appreciated just what a tremendous effort it was.
yer fine...the question was what do you use?
when ive said could be great for getting out climbing without partner....i mean using a system similar (as they dont make it anymore) to the Silent partner....what are people using?
> yer fine...the question was what do you use?
I was just pointing out that toothed or spiky cam devices are usually only used for top rope ("shunting " ) , often outside the manufacturers recommendations.
In a lead fall situation, they will probably break the rope.
Answering your question.
Personally for lone top roping, I have used Shunt, Basic/ handled Ascendeurs and Mini Traxion. Usually has worked out OK but have had the odd drama.
For roped lead soloing have used back looping, 7mm prussick, tied loops, modified Gri gri, Soloist, original Reverso, Silent Partner. Usually without any drama but usually a lot of frustration as getting the the rope balanced and running smoothly is an art I have not perfected. Hats off to Pete for getting this sorted and doing El Cap.
Amazing achievement and a superb film.
I think I want his babies.
Cheers mate. I bet it takes a bit of getting used to though!
Great film, amazing job Pete.
looks like he's using backup knots in some of the frames...
Great video, and one of the first videos of climbing I've seen where the use of a POV headcam really added to the feeling of the shot.
Yeah, headcam footage of climbing is usually pants. They're much less useful for climbing than a lot of other sports. I suspect the difference here is better editors showing more judgement and the fact that they might have had almost an entire day of footage to choose from.
Yay! Absolutely blimmin excellent! Very very well done PW, and a lovely film
Good to bring this to attention, as probably like a fair few folk, I didn't realise this was so unusual. I think this was because there had been free ascents in a day of routes before, and there had been solo aid ascents before, and it slipped my mind there could be another alternative. It does make naming the style of ascent difficult though! It's soloing (not in a British sense), and it's free of aid. Free soloing with a rope?!
>It does make naming the style of ascent difficult though! It's soloing (not in a British sense), and it's free of aid. Free soloing with a rope?!
Fine concept.Cameraman worked hard too.
I agree that that makes sense. Presumably other ascents prior to this one would be termed 'Aid soloes'?
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