In reply to Paul R:
> (In reply to UKC Articles) On the subject of screamers. I had an ecrins trip over xmas, and conditions generally being not great and a bit warm, most routes became an exercise in trying to make safe dodgy belays and poor screws and runners. Ive never got round to buying any screamers never really having the need for them, but I think they would have made life a little less stressful.
> So I had a little experiment with long slings, gaffa tape and various twists and turns on the crabs. You may laugh, n im not sure Mr Dmm would be too happy, but got some reasonable success. Fully being able to support body weight and only ripping under extra load. Made me think of putting them on the belay in case of a factor 2? Thoughts?
Well congrats on your innovation - not one to stifle that. I'd be thinking though - with 'screamer' type extenders on a main belay that if they deploy where do you the belayer end up and how would that affect your abilty to belay? There are several other options to reduce the impact force on a main belay 'in extremis' such as waist belay. Far more dynamic than a belay plate and would help to greatly reduce any impact force. Also leaders placing lot's of gear or the best option - the leader must not fall. Must admit I like that one - regardless of what end of the rope I am in winter!