In reply to 1poundSOCKS:
Hi - having looked at the earlier thread on UKC forums started by Franco I understand that use of the side runners (which are just a couple of feet to the left of the skyhook placement at roughly the same level) on Gold is a little devisive, however I believe that the way I've led the line is legitimate and responsible (towards the rock, as falls onto the side runners don't damage the route) and is in a style that others might want to repeat the line. The grade of E8 7a reflects both the style and difficulty of the route - it's something like a bouldery Fr8a+, whilst the left-hand exit is only about Fr7b+ with the direct start to the groove (H7 to lead with just the skyhook??), or Fr 7b with the start up the corner as for True. Detailed route descriptions can be found at
http://www.climbonline.co.uk/kepwick.htm
The only way to genuinely improve on the style of my ascent of Gold would be to place the skyhook on the lead and then not fall off (which makes a mess of the pocket due to the soft rock!), and as falls are pretty likely and the skyhook is not certain to hold I can't see there being many takers for this option, which as I've previously suggested would be a fairly suicidal E9.
I'd also like to emphasize a previous comment that I've made about taking care of the rock if and when anyone tries the route, i.e. Please be very respectful: in particular the start of 'Gold' has become quite a lot harder 6c as opposed to 6b (only just possible with cunning!) as the shallow dish/ pocket that you reach for whilst standing on the protruding block at the base of the wall partially broke away (a couple of years ago when other parties were trying the line) and eroded (as it's also a key foothold on the route).
If this pocket erodes any more then any future ascents of Gold would have to start up True, which incidentally would be slightly easier but get the same grade of E8 7a, but then the 'side runners' would be exactly on route! Also incidentally the climbing to reach the bottom of the groove by starting up the corner of True isn't completely trivial - it's about english 6a/b as opposed to 6c for the direct.
Finally as regards the 7a technical grade for the crux on Gold, I'd note that it could possibly reduce to 6c for the very tall - I'm 6ft but that's not nearly enough!
Regards,
Richard.