UKC

THE LOWDOWN: Robinson Derailed at Rocklands

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[Paul Robinson and a piece of his art, 1 kb]On his first real day of climbing at Rocklands, South Africa, this year, Paul Robinson made a super quick ascent of Daniel Woods' Derailed, 8B+, needing only 20 minutes. He also managed to do the 2nd ascent of Jungle bar, 8A+/B.
It's been raining quite a lot so far, which means there's been time...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=56586
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

can i be the first to say, good work...

googled rocklands, looks like a lovely place, a bit nicer than Hobson Moor by the looks of it...

cheers
gregor
In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:

Nicer than Hobson - surely not?
 Andrew Smith 14 Jul 2010
In reply to Carl Smethurst: No way nicer than Hobson, I bet there is not a decent chippy or pie shop for miles.....
In reply to Andrew Smith:

There isn't. It's boerewors and witblits round the braai, I'm afraid. Not the same at all.
 220bpm 14 Jul 2010
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

He wasn't impressed by a NH 8C line?

Surprised to say the least. Helluva first day tho!
 big john 15 Jul 2010
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: very fine effort, but i dont see how he can't be psyched by livin large. it looks amazing. why not give us some actual reasons instead of, 'its not worth the walk in', which it most certainly looks like it is.
mars510 16 Jul 2010
 Quiddity 16 Jul 2010
In reply to big john & mars510:

Maybe he just doesn't fancy it. Does he need a reason? FFS.
In reply to plexiglass_nick:

I think the point is it sounds a bit churlish, the way he describes it as "not too impressive". Anyone who has seen the Core film must agree it is an outstanding looking line, with really interesting moves and super-highball. It sounds like the main reason P-Rob doesn't fancy it, is that he can't be bothered with the long walk in. I'm sure when he's a bit older he'll re-read that post and cringe
 Chris F 16 Jul 2010
In reply to Tom Briggs: Guessing you have your eye on it? Or maybe a bit rich for your blood?
 Chris F 16 Jul 2010
"made a super quick ascent of Daniel Woods' compression problem Derailed"

Also can someone please tell me what a compression problem is? I though cars with shot piston rings suffered from it.
 Stuart S 16 Jul 2010
In reply to Chris F:

It's where you squeeze you way up something between opposing, far apart holds (sort of bear hug style)
In reply to Chris F:

It's a heck of a hike from Sheffield to Rocklands, surely?

jcm
mars510 16 Jul 2010
In reply to plexiglass_nick:
Maybe he doesn´t fancy it and of course he don´t need a reason.
...but that was not what we were talkin about.
Its just hard to share his view on the aesthetics of the boulder...that's all. It looks like on one of the most beautiful pieces of rock to me.
and ffs?...maybe you need to chill out a little.

 PeterJuggler 16 Jul 2010
In reply to big john: Maybe it's just not his style. It's an arete and he likes more crimpy/overhanging problems. It's also very high-ball - it looks more like a solo. Just because he has amazing bouldering skills doesn't mean he's prepared to risk serious injury.
 220bpm 16 Jul 2010
In reply to Juggler13:
Eh?

"We found Livin large,[8C] Nalle's climb from last year, and I was not too impressed. The hike was insanely long and I don't think I will try it at all during the trip. It looked ok but not worth the hike.

Toms "churlish" description hit the spot for me. "Not too impressed" is far removed from "Not my style".

Nalle 8C = Real 8C imo. Not many of those around.
This intersting article is worth reading: http://nalle-hukkataival.blogspot.com/2010/03/bouldering-grades-everything-is-average.html

The Sisu project? One can only speculate...


Maybe thats why...wonder how gargantuan the walk-in is to put off this top level athelete...
 Chris F 20 Jul 2010
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
> (In reply to Chris F)
>
> It's a heck of a hike from Sheffield to Rocklands, surely?

What you mean? Tom has mentioned elsewhere that he is heading off there shortly. At least i think he did.
 Chris F 20 Jul 2010
In reply to Stuart S:
> (In reply to Chris F)
>
> It's where you squeeze you way up something between opposing, far apart holds (sort of bear hug style)

Ah OK. Type of thing I need to make a not to avoid I think, being rubbish at that sort of thing.

 scooott 20 Jul 2010
By all accounts Nalle 8C is very, very solid 8C. It would probably be more beneficial for Paul to go round climbing 8B+s in 20minutes instead...
 PeterJuggler 03 Aug 2010
In reply to 220bpm: More details from his blog

"nalle’s climb. it is cool to look at yes. I just PERSONALLY am not that psyched on it. It is very cool that nalle did the climb and if it were something i found and could have called my own i think i would have been more psyched to haul the pads up the hill to try it. The hike is approximately one hour and pretty steep to get to the boulder. yes, it is not as far as jade but when there are HUNDREDS of climbs so much closer to the road and projects of my own even closer to the road than even a half of a kilometer it is hard to justify the hike for a 2nd ascent that i PERSONALLY am not that psyched to get on. In addition, it costs 30 Rand a person to go up there to climb. There is NOTHING around livin Large so if i wanted to try it i would probably have to pay each person’s 30 rand to go there to spot me (30 rand is about 4.5 us dollars) and with 5 pads that’s about 4 people if i carry 2 myself. Let’s imagine if it took me 8 days to complete (4 less than nalle) that would mean i would have to spend 30(4)(8)=960 rand to send livin large… that is approximately 130 US dollars if not more to send a mere boulder problem. I just DONT have those funds when i could climb even more amazing projects for free."
 Derek O 03 Aug 2010
In reply to Juggler13:

One hour?? That is not an insanely long walk in! The price, fair enough. His sponsors probably would have paid if it was for a FA, which he could have graded 8c+, by the sound of it!
 @ndyM@rsh@ll 03 Aug 2010
In reply to Derek O: One hour is an insanely long walk in for one problem.
 ksjs 03 Aug 2010
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: i think ive moaned about this before on here but will allow myself to do so again: i just dont buy this doing 8b+ in 20 mins lark. if it really was 8b+ and Paul did it in 20 mins then surely it follows that, with a far from excessive number of sessions on something that suited him, he'd 'easily' put up at least Font 9a.

can someone give me a brief summary of which established / agreed 8cs and 8b+s Paul and Daniel have repeated (no FAs in the list please)...
 @ndyM@rsh@ll 03 Aug 2010
In reply to ksjs: Don't be a burke, there are V8s i've done in 10 minutes, there are V8s it's taken me days of effort to do, there are V4s i've found nails and V5s i've flashed, it doesn't mean the grades are all wrong. Suggesting that doing a V14 that suits you quickly when you are one of the best boulderers in the world is supect smacks of jealousy.
 ksjs 03 Aug 2010
In reply to @ndyM@rsh@ll: no, im not jealous just really dubious about this stuff getting done so quickly. i think theres a difference between you (or anyone) doing V8 in minutes versus this: 8b+ is virtually the cutting edge and, even if it suits, id imagine it should be taking longer than 20 minutes? just doesnt seem logical that this is that easy for him.
Carnage 04 Aug 2010
In reply to ksjs:
> (In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC) i think ive moaned about this before on here but will allow myself to do so again: i just dont buy this doing 8b+ in 20 mins lark. can someone give me a brief summary of which established / agreed 8cs and 8b+s Paul and Daniel have repeated

Surely you can go on 8a.nu and look this up yourself? You do realise that 8B+ has been flashed before by Adam Ondra - (Confessions), and that Ondra also did Derailed in 1 hour? You seem to be casting aspertions that these guys, some of the strongest in world and at the top of their games aren't capable of this kind of thing?
 ksjs 04 Aug 2010
In reply to Carnage: yeah, i know 8b+ has been flashed but...

i will look at 8a but, apart from a few things, im not familiar with whats well-established / recognised in top level international bouldering hence asking here.

i cant help but refer to my (admittedly limited) knowledge of UK bouldering, in particular Parisella's, and think of some strong folk not doing a similar or easier standard in 20 mins or 1 hour for that matter. what gives?

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