Great to hear so much is getting done, and that the guide has spurred on a bit of activity.
Good article, thanks! Has there been any updates on the ban at High Rocks? Last post I can find is back in August last year.
Yes, that's all I'm thinking about having read this. The huge potential tragedy of losing High Rocks as a stupendous climbing venue (largely, if the way it's been reported to me is correct, as a result of the blind stupidity of a very small number of selfish climbers). We can only hope that negotiations between the BMC and the owner are progressing positively, but fear that the owner is in absolutely no hurry after this extraordinary souring of relationships. All the years I climbed there, from the mid 70s to mid 80s, once we'd accepted that we had to pay the owner to go in, I remember the relationship between the regular climbers and the owner as being very amicable. I.e he trusted us, and we in turn spent money in his nice hotel.
A rather weird 'dislike' above. I would have thought that anyone who disagreed with my assessment would want to say why ... obviously taking into account the very delicate diplomatic situation. Or: if they disagree with me even raising the subject, surely they would say so?
Gordon, it looks as though they may have repented! Your assessment certainly got a 'Like' from me. The High Rocks situation seems such a pity. Hopefully it will be resolved. I only went there once, in the 1980s, and it wasn't in good condition - but what a crag!
Despite not having been to these places since the '80s and being too crap to get up most of the new problems anyway, I enjoy reading these reports. It's great that people are prepared to look at even highly developed areas with fresh eyes and make new finds. Innovation and enthusiasm - long may they continue!
it's a real pity some of my most favorite climbs are at Highrocks. Even if he did allow us to pay for permits I daren't say he would still have firm restrictions on times of day we could climb. that's what was happening towards the end. difficult when you want to get in their for a mid week evening climb.
I will say though, with reference to damaged fences, a couple of times we experienced local kids who weren't climbers that had got into the rocks seemingly without paying, on one occasion about ten cars (including my friends) in the car park had been broken into and the only way they would have escaped is through the HIghrocks and I can't imagine they paid for permits.
great round up!