In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC) Good article, and OK he's a mate, but I think the one downside of the article is that it disparages Ron's genius at the time of the first ascent, both in conceiving the line and assuming it was possible (and proving he was correct).
Seems there was a competition for the first ascent between two climbers, with different approaches in style.
"It's March 1980, Tremadog is very much 'in vogue'. Think Adidas tracksuits, 3/4 length tights, EB's and huge chalk bags. If you've got an orange vest to wear over your T-shirt, all the better. The race for the first ascent of Strawberries is on and Ron Fawcett is in the lead. He eventually climbs the route after several falls over a period of two weekends, reaching the top in the yo-yo style - with his ropes pre-clipped in runners from a previous high-point, his gear pre-placed on abseil, meaning no energy wasted on his actual ascent attempt.
Dodgy tactics? Absolutely! But who cares, Strawberries is climbed and Ron secures his place at the top of the pack. Close behind is John Redhead, who was also in the running for the first ascent, but didn't quite get there in time:
"John would have done it months before if he had used the same tactics" Keith Robertson is quoted as saying in the CC guidebook history section.
Sometimes a bit of 'cheating' is the only way to win! A few years on and the crown of Britain's rock prince became up for grabs. Firing on to the scene was a very ambitious Jerry Moffatt who had designs on unseating Fawcett and becoming the reigning champion himself. A few years later and Jerry had proved himself to have taken climbing to a new level, but not on Strawberries. It took him four falls and two days, finally resorting to the yo-yo tactics of his predecessor to secure success."