/ NEWS: Third ascent of Transcendence E8 6c by Dan Varian

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UKC News - on 25 Mar 2019
Dan Varian recently made the third ascent of Transcendence E8 6c, one of Northumberland's proudest and most fearsome routes, which has resisted attempts by some of the country's finest climbers for twenty five years.

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Dan Arkle - on 25 Mar 2019
In reply to UKC News:

I really liked this news piece.  Well written, it acknowledges the history, and shows a great love for the area and the sport. And its funny too - make sure you read to the end and watch the Matt Segal video!

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Smith42 on 26 Mar 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Great ascent but a somewhat pretentious write up. Was counting on the Beastmaker guys to keep it real!

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Lord_ash2000 - on 26 Mar 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Watching the video I'm actually surprised it has gone that long without a repeat. It's only a couple of moves above bomber gear and you're done. 

But then you realise that's Dan climbing and what he makes look piss tends to still be nails for the rest of us. Those pockets must be shockingly bad when you're on them. 

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Franco Cookson on 26 Mar 2019
In reply to Lord_ash2000:

Good read. Nice one Mark and Dan.

You're spot on. The move either side of the hard move are pretty hard themselves for Trad routes and the main move is a really slopey pocket. It's a serious feat of slopey pocket ability to hang that. It was impressive to see Dan link it so smoothly in less than perfect conditions, after we'd all failed so totally.  

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Michael Gordon - on 26 Mar 2019
In reply to UKC News:

A great write up from both Mark and Dan. Superb!

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Rob the great on 26 Mar 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Awesome article! Dan is a legend of British climbing!

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Rich Kirby - on 26 Mar 2019
In reply to UKC 

I dont usually get to the the end of these sort of articles... I did this time. Dan has an interesting way with words which makes for a great read. Matt Segal always entertaining. 

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rjwaterton on 27 Mar 2019
In reply to Lord_ash2000:

If I read this article correctly then surely this route needs upgrading back to Malcolm's original grade of E9 7a? I've had a few short-lived goes on the route over the years and the pockets are truly terrible - has anyone else actually done the moves apart from Malc, Robin and Dan?? I had assumed after Robin's downgrade that it had had quite a few repeats from the County locals - particularly thinking of Andy Earl who had amazing open-handed pocket strength, so was also surprised to learn this is only the third ascent. Don't think it can reasonably be left at E8 - the E grade is supposed to take account of difficulty as well as any danger!

Richard.

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Wft on 28 Mar 2019
In reply to rjwaterton:

Robin has also commented on UK bouldering saying - 

"In terms of the grade, I suspect I was a bit over-zealous with suggesting 6c and 7a is likely the correct grade. In previous discussions with Malcolm I think we agreed something like E8 / 7a / 8b / 7C+"

I enjoyed this article, great to read so much about so few moves. It means something.

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Michael Gordon - on 29 Mar 2019
In reply to rjwaterton:

It seems strange that one repeat has led to the grade of the route being changed. Surely you want a second repeat to at least confirm one way or another; otherwise it's just two opinions.

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Richie Patterson - on 31 Mar 2019
In reply to UKC News
I tried this back in the day, and I think I actually tried it the same day as Robin did - the first day he was on it. I remember it being flipping nails. I wasn't bouldering super-hard at the time and remember thing that 7c+ seemed about right but I have a feeling there was a bit of a reach which made it seem even harder if you were short - Robin had a pretty good ape index and that made a difference.  I am pretty strong on draggy pockets as well but as Dan points out, and I'd concur, Robin was king on that sort of hold. I think i got most of the moves but the one reachy foxed me and for some reason I never went back...

It's totally perfect rock and a superb bouldery route. Good effort Dan...

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