UKC

"Whilst reaching for the third clip I slipped and fell from the limestone, at the same time I bit down hard on the rope."

Something many of us do, often without thinking, can lead to dire consequences.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=207

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

What's the crag in the side photo, Mick? I am guessing Owens River Gorge?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Sorry to hear about your accident.
I've been climbing for around 20 years, and never, NEVER have I even considered putting the rope between my teeth.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

mmmmmphhhhh <clutching mouth>

this is one of my worst fears. And it's so early in the morning.


ouuuchheeee.

In reply to tobyfk:


Don't think so...

Mick

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Sorry to hear about your accident - get well soon.

I've politely 'told off' a bunch of people for moving whilst holding the rope in their mouths over the last few years - it's really dangerous. It's usually a novice sport climber, gripped and trying to clip a bolt from below and being really stretched out.

Holding it between teeth momentarily whilst stationary to get extra rope out is OK (but still a bit risky) - but if you are doing this a lot, try and think about moving higher or level with the the bolt before clipping so you don't need as much rope out - it's also a lot less strenuous.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Damn. It's one of the gorge routes rather than main area, right?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Well that literally 'set my teeth on edge'.
I'd always assumed that if anyone fell with the rope in their teeth, the first impulse would be to yell and therefore drop the rope. Obviously not!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: eek! you can almost imagine the forces and the jolt involved too?

i like how simply it was written as well

all the best recovering :¬)

That sounded real nasty! All the best for your recovery. Certainly makes you think about holding the rope in your mouth, something which I do occasionly (not when moving tho, just stationary, as I pull up a bit more slack, being as one poster mentioned above, below the bolt and stretching up to clip) Bet you're glad you can start having things other than soup now!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

felt very sick reading this

I have always had nighmares about teeth faling out and have to say never put the rope in my teeth whilst moving.

Yes maybe to hold the rope when I have to reach high for a clip. Never again.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Ouch! Hope you get better soon mate!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

I think it's not Mick who wrote the article (and thus with a broken jaw).....

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

I bet he's feeling a bit jaundiced

In reply to balti boy:


That's the whole point. Go to any serious sport crag and you'll find dozens of people putting the rope in your teeth - half the time, you have to. But not moving.

Mick

In reply to Mick Ward:

Err... meant 'in their teeth'. Suppose, if it was your teeth, it would be the offical UKC bondage party!

Mick

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

so to clarify! If my sprog pulls some slack up to clip and still hasnt got enuf to get the clip he is allowed although it is a bit dodgey to hold the loop he already has in his teeth... this is what he does now if he didnt get enuf.
How else can you keep it whilst pullling more rope up?
I know.... climb higher but in his oh my god i'm gonna die moments all he wants to do is clip in not climb higher!

In reply to Pauline:


Give him a ton of slack! That'll sort him out. You seen Fred's whippers on the vid?

Mick (scaredy cat)

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Check the orthopaedic journals over the next few years. That's bound to be written up as a new way to fracture the incisive bone. You'll be famous!

In reply to Kinley: i remember some bloke called nigel doing something similar at pembroke...

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Ouch! What a horrific thing to happen. Thanks for sharing the experience and hope you can smile again soon.

In reply to tobyfk:

No ones biting fnar fnar

The Ent

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Ouch...

Remember - always be prepared to open your mouth and scream if you fall off whilst temporarily holding your rope in your mouth when taking in rope to reach the next clip.

Sunday Sport is horribly polished anyway, and I was only seconding it when I tried it...

In reply to Pauline:

Generally I try to 'grip' it by jamming the rope against the wall using my knee.... I'ts a little easier and much safer!