UKC

NEWS: UKC Tokyo 2020 Olympic Athlete Database Completed

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 UKC News 03 Aug 2020

With six months to go until the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games (once again), we've completed our site feature showcasing the selected climbers following December's selection events. On 4-7 August 2020, Sport Climbing was due to make its Olympic debut. In a historic move, the COVID-19 pandemic resulted in postponement of the event until 3-6 August 2021, resulting in mixed emotions for confirmed athletes. Despite widespread rumours of cancellation this week, IOC President Thomas Bach asserted this evening that the IOC is 'fully committed to the successful and safe delivery of Tokyo 2020.'


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In reply to UKC News:

We've now managed to complete the database following December's selection events. Chaehyun and Jongwon's places appear to be pending confirmation from the IOC due to the fact that they are not yet listed on the IFSC website. We have emailed the IFSC for information.

Thanks to Eddie Fowke for helping to finish off the profiles and to Charlie Boscoe for his part in the earlier ones!

 lithos 27 Jan 2021
In reply to Natalie Berry - UKC:

looks good, minor tweak could you put a border on the flags icon (via css i guess) as all white can get lost eg Japan, Poland

In reply to lithos:

Thanks for pointing this out, fixed.

 lithos 27 Jan 2021
In reply to Andy Ovens - UKC and UKH:

very cute

 Andy Gamisou 28 Jan 2021
In reply to UKC News:

Should be fairly trivial to produce a list of "expected" final positions based on each competitors current "ranking" for each discipline....

6
 Offwidth 28 Jan 2021
In reply to Andy Gamisou:

It's really not. The last European qualifier showed just how hard it is to predict results. What you can say is the best in each discipline in the qualifying rounds will likely make the final because of the effect of multiplying rank orders. 

I still think it's fairly likely the Olympics will be cancelled or severely disruptied due to the new covid variants keeping infection levels high across the world.

Post edited at 09:32
 Marmolata 28 Jan 2021
In reply to UKC News:

Do we still call it Tokyo 2020 even if it is moved again to 2022?

 Andy Gamisou 28 Jan 2021
In reply to Offwidth:

> It's really not. The last European qualifier showed just how hard it is to predict results. What you can say is the best in each discipline in the qualifying rounds will likely make the final because of the effect of multiplying rank orders. 

> I still think it's fairly likely the Olympics will be cancelled or severely disruptied due to the new covid variants keeping infection levels high across the world.

I think you've entirely misunderstood my suggestion, possibly deliberately.  I'm really not interested in having a "discussion" with you on the topic as your main purpose on this website appears to be to simply argue with people and I've little interest in going down that rabbit hole.  

8
In reply to Andy Gamisou:

It's not really possible as a good few of the athletes haven't even got rankings in Speed and Lead as they are too young or haven't competed on the IFSC circuit, hence why it's easier to predict our finalists from the more experienced athletes with more competitions under their belt but less so when it comes to the rest.

Yes, still Tokyo 2020.

 Michael Gordon 28 Jan 2021
In reply to Marmolata:

> Do we still call it Tokyo 2020 even if it is moved again to 2022?

2022 is far less satisfactory really. You've already got the World Champs (and there would be no sense in having both), Football World Cup etc and it would only leave 2 years before the next Olympics. I would've thought 2021 or bust... 

1
In reply to UKC News:

Really chuffed to see Sean McColl making the cut. Seems likes one of those nice guys who works really hard and has been hoping for this opportunity for a while. Hope it goes well for him! 
 

Obviously, all the other competitors have earned their place due to incredible dedication and hard work. Let’s hope they deliver a great show.

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Next IFSC World Championship is this year, Moscow in September. Paraclimbing is once more integrated.

 Sergio C. 08 Feb 2021
In reply to UKC News:

Nice work! One question: Why are the seed lists still pending of verification?

In reply to Sergio C.:

There are still two athletes (the Asian continental spots) to be assigned, according to the IFSC. Only the first 8 athletes are seeded due to their ranking order at the Hachioji WCH (all at the same event), because following Hachioji there are people who have all technically qualified via Hachioji (Anouk, Michael, the two Asian athletes (who we assume to be Jongwon and Chaehyun)) but at different stages due their quotas being reallocations, and then there are continental championships which are all evenly weighted but took place at different times.

I assume the seeding will change to place the four named athletes above ahead of people who qualified in Toulouse, since they technically qualified via Hachioji rankings, which comes first in the hierarchy of qualification events. Not sure how the continentals will be seeded after that. The pathway can be read here: https://cdn.ifsc-climbing.org/images/Olympic_Games/Tokyo-2020-Qualification-System-Sport-Climbing.pdf

Post edited at 12:03
 Si Witcher 08 Feb 2021
In reply to Graeme Alderson:

Hi Graeme, has the paraclimbing GB squad already been selected, who are expecting to be eligible for the new stricter IFSC classification rules, which appear to be in force for 2021? Or will that get done closer to the first 2021 IFSC paraclimbing event? (timing subject to Covid situation)

I haven't been able to find any commentary on the BMC competition pages which interprets the impact of the IFSC aligning to IPC classification rules this year, ahead of bidding to get paraclimbing into the paralympics in 2028.

Edit: I guess it may be exactly the same squad who all remain eligible under the new rules, but it seems hard to determine from all the various rules and appendices.

Post edited at 12:25
In reply to Si Witcher:

I have no idea, I am not involved with GB Climbing.

 Si Witcher 08 Feb 2021
In reply to Graeme Alderson:

Ok, no worries, I was being lazy. I'll contact the BMC.

 Si Witcher 08 Feb 2021
In reply to Si Witcher:

Zoe Spriggins (BMC Competition Programme Manager) confirmed that the current GB paraclimbing team will be classified according to the new rules at the first 2021 IFSC international event at Innsbruck in June. Selection for 2022 will be announced later in the year, dependent on what international and national events can take place, covid-wise.


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