In reply to Serpico:
> (In reply to Mick Ward)
Sorry, didn't see your comments yesterday.
> People simply don't get sufficiently out of their comfort zone (in every aspect of their training/climbing) with the regularity needed to make serious improvement.
Totally agree. And yes, that includes me also.
> Everyone in your target demographic could climb a MINIMUM of 3 grades harder if they simply climbed more and tried harder...
Hmm... not sure it's as straighforward as this. In my experience, people hit 'grade ceilings' and continuing to bash their heads against the ceiling rarely leads to success. (Often it can result in injury.) In the early 90s when I trained in The Office, there might be 100+ climbers in The Foundry nearby, banging out more of the same old stuff... with the same old results. And four guys in The Office grimly determined on F8b and reaching it.
When I first met Mark Stevenson, he'd done 50 E2s. It was obvious to me (but not him) that he could climb E4. A while later, he climbed Resurrection. Then he went on to Right Wall. He'd got stronger working F7bs and he'd broken free of the E2 mindset.
> That sounds potentially costly, which is no comment on the content of the book, it's just that you can lead a horse to water...
Agreed, you can lead a horse to water. The cost... a couple of quickdraws maybe. I spent 50 times that yesterday getting coaching on something else. The cost is piffling. Do people stand outside pubs and nightclubs counting their pennies? Don't think so.
> If I see another thread asking 'I'm finding climbing hard - which Yoga/Running/Knitting/French class should I do to improve?', or 'Where can I buy a Patxi-style weight vest so I can climb badly on V2's instead of V3's and kid myself I'm improving?', I may just cancel my internet.
Know the feeling of frustration! But instead of cancelling, I suggest to people to have not one grade but two: an onsight grade and a redpoint grade. That fundamental distinction opens up realms of otherwise unexplored possibility.
Feck it! If I'm going to get grief, I might as well advertise here and get advertised grief! Ye've only yerselves to blame...
Mick