UKC

I haven't seen a move like this before:

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bd5hvJABO7_/

The kind of thing I wouldn't be surprised to see in a Hollywood action movie sometime.

You should get yourselves to The Hangar Liverpool WBL then! Loads of crazy fun moves set there. 

Reminds me of the sequence in Stone Monkey where JD' parents watch him doing some similar moves round an indoor wall.

Not a fan of these running jumping style things. It's not 'climbing' in the conventional sense, any normal person faced with this climb outdoors would just start from the undercut, noone would consider trying to jump into it from a near by wall. 

Unfortunately the main driving force of this new style is comps, with setters being forced to set wild and dynamic moves like these to please the crowd, not to please the climbers and certainly not to test thier real climbing ability. As climbing is becoming for mainstream it's being distorted in order to attract a crowd and the media attention and in turn money. 

You'll get to a point where indoor climbing starts to break away from outdoor climbing and training outdoors simply won't equip you to climb indoors anymore.

And nobody said it wasn't "real climbing" then. We were all just too busy being awestruck.

What if it was half way up a route that had started on the left wall?

http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2018/1/14/rock-climbs-make-terribl...

Some moves I hadn't seen before here if you're interested. 

youtube.com/watch?v=LbtG6bwm1ys&

The slab at 0:10 is really interesting. 

Some of those almost look unreal

I agree with that to a point. Comps are spectator driven so problems have to be interesting to watch as well as climb.

But a secondary driving force is simply the fact that climbing standards are going up. One could just make the holds smaller and the angles steeper but that wouldn't be very creative. I think it's both natural and interesting to see where we can take things and find out the limits of human potential. Unlike rock the possibilities on artificial walls is limitless so it's understandable that that is where we'll find the most unusual moves.

Also I think the parkour style problems are still very much a minority and some comps don't have any. Most problems in comps still have relevance to outdoor climbing to various degrees: even the top half of this one for instance.

Dawn Wall? Ballistic Dyno?

~8-9ft sideways dyno crux move.

youtube.com/watch?v=t25hMnexUpc&

I'm pretty sure there is also footage about of Tommy Caldwell practicing this move on a set of indoor holds he made in his garage.

You know this one, of course. OK, not to an undercut, but... Big Air (E6 6b)#photos

Isn't it time people stopped thinking of indoor climbing as just practice for outdoors?

Poor analogy but we're looking at the same point as when electric guitars came about. They aren't just electric versions of their acoustic parents, they became their own thing with their own new challenges and rewards.

Personally I don't like a lot of these run and jump ones but thats because I think they take up too much wall space, you could fit 4 or more good problems in the space of one big dynamic one.

Maybe, but the more indoor bouldering moves towards stuff virtually irrelevant to outdoor climbing, the poorer bouldering walls become as training facilities, which is a really quite annoying.

Hasn't happened yet though. I spent yesterday evening at a local bouldering wall projecting a brutally fingery slightly overhanging circuit on little crimps. Hard to imagine what could be more relevant to limestone sport climbing, which is what I mostly do outdoors these days.

In fact, I can only think of one bouldering wall I've ever been to where comp-style dynoing and volume shuffling is totally the prevailing style. (E4 in Nuremberg - it was great fun. And yes, I have been to a few modern British ones as well e.g. Works, Depot, Arch old & new)

It's happening at my local wall; increasing numbers of weird slopey volume/blob problems of no interest or relevance to me.

Do they have a board?

There's a surprising (or perhaps unsurprising) amount of strength to be gained from climbing on 'blobs' and volumes. Training does not need to mimic the climbing you want to do outside to give you the requisite gains in performance.

I'm not saying a situation outdoors where such a move is the only way of doing it isn't impossible, it's just extremely unlikely, rock just doesn't tend to form its self in such ways, there are normally always some footholds or something you can use in between to avoid a run a jump situation.   It's not to say you can't have pretty crazy moves outdoors, just the other day I did a problem where you had to do a double toe hook around a big flake way out right then bring your left arm underneath so you ended up with 3 points all on one flake before being able to move your feet and carry on. but it was all still very much climbing.

I've seen one or two problems where the only solution is to take a run up, plant your foot into the wall and grab a jug because it was just basically one hold 8ft up a wall with nothing below to start from. But it's very rare and that's just a single wall run move but even then on actual rock, I'm not sure I'd say it was 'climbing' as such, it certainly isn't something I'd be interested in trying.  I'm hoping it's just a crazy and eventually it'll fizzle out and just leave an influence on indoor style rather than come to define it. When such problems are set at normal climbing walls I think all you can do is vote with your feet (and hands) and simply don't climb them. If centres see no one ever giving their super futurist rad problems a second thought they'll start to set less of them. 

Yes, a systems board which is brilliant.

Yes, I should have been clearer; it's not so much the blobs and volumes I object to but the weirdness of the moves set. Nothing wrong with cranking hard on anything.

I haven't seen the link but I presume its some kind of dynamic marvel running, jumping and campusing all over the place.

I like to watch this kind of climbing from time to time but I am in the camp that it seems to be taking over.  Visit any climbing wall and you will witness (especially younger climbers) a plethora of climbs which can reasonably be achieved statically without the need to 'captain cutloose'.  Trouble is the fashion at the moment seems to be to have your feet swinging out feet from the wall where the impressive technique is controlling the momentum and swing on huge jugs rather than actually moving about the wall.  I have seen my 10yr old daughter walk up to climbs where the preceding adult climber has had a round of applause for 'cutting loose'.  She has then climbed it statically, smoothly and 100% in control.  The conversation is usually just WHY would you bother?

Thing that gets me is these people are limiting their climbing in my eyes.  If something is achievable statically, then by doing it dynamically you are limiting your potential coverage.  Dynamic climbing has a massive part of climbing but do it on stuff that warrants it.  Then you have genuine dynamic skills topping up your static skills

Yeah Toe Jam is a fun problem, although I've seen people avoiding that beta which is a shame.

I think there's a lot to be gained in terms is kinaesthetics, co ordination, contact strength, core strength ans footwork amongst other things from these dynamic problem styles.

Thanks for this. 

Unless of course the new crop of climbers like that kind of thing, it might not be "better" but it looks cooler and people seem to like being cool. 

I pretty much agree with that about climbing statically rather than cutting loose. Cutting loose is often a sign of poor footwork or lack of core strength. Just watched a short vid about US comp climber Megan Mascarenas who is something of an expert at doing problems set to be dynamic, statically.

https://onbouldering.com/megan-mascarenas-inside-out/

However if you watch the vid at the top I suspect even she might struggle to do that one statically.

Amazing footwork