/ UKC Fit Club Week 678

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mattrm 15 Mar 2020

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:- http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:- http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

Last weeks post - https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_677-716735?v=1

Psyche video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gojOJwYwFfM - Sorry, it was too late for me to edit the post last week.  Thanks ting.

Somerset swede basher - Hope you're all well now?  Glad you got out at least.

Si dH - Hope work has calmed down?  Maybe start on some yoga?  Two good sessions there, so a nice week.

mattrm - An ok week considering.  

AJM - How's the crack?  The tactical rest sounds like a good idea.  Lots of good sessions.  Hope the shoulder is ok?

AlanLittle - I still enjoy doing stuff with my parents and I'm 37.  You'll be fine.  Another good ski club week.

Ally Smith - Lots of good sessions there.  Loving the DIY club.  

the sheep - Is the elbow ok this week?  Lots of steadyt work there.  Well done.

Steve Jones - Good job on the momentum!  Lots of running and climbing, awesome!

Cyan - Welcome back!!!  Did you manage three sessions?

jackob - That's an amazing winter tick!  Well done on the weight.

annak - The deload sounds nice.  Excellent news about the 6c+  I guess your USA trip is cancelled now?  Better safe than sorry I guess.

ianstevens - Woo more skiing.  Nice problems at Bowden.  It's a lovely place.  I'll use that vid next week.

Bones - Ooooo, 3 runs!  1 fingerboard tho...  Oh well.  Rest weeks are good to do from time to time.  I guess you'll get a run in?

Rebecca Ting - 4 hilly miles, very nice.  Where was the v4?  

Post edited at 09:25
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jackob 15 Mar 2020
In reply to mattrm:

STG: 7B Boulder

7b Onsight

70kg

LTG: 8a Sport climb

Mon: Max hangs in the morning. Board/Bouldering in the evening.

Tues: Trowbarrow. Repeatedly (20+ times) falling off the last move on neds problem. Painfully close now.

Weds: Rest

Thurs: Did max hangs before bouldering as a friend recommended it as a good way to get recruited when in fact i think it just tired me out. Went to trowbarrow but very quickly found i was lacking in the power after doing max hangs to give neds problem a proper go so played around on some other bits.

Fri: Rest

Sat: Went to trowbarrow. Thought i was going to tick Ned's Problem (f7B) but alas today was not the day. Bit too tired after only 3 hours sleep in the morning after being on night shifts the previous night. Actually felt like id gone backwards this session on it. Maybe an element of redpoint stress. 

Think ive now spent 6 sessions trying neds problem. Never put so much effort into a problem before this. It does feel very close now but i am starting to get very frustrated with it too. All part of the fun though. Unfortunately my trip to margalef/siurana has been cancelled due to coronavirus, which is nice as i can now carry on bouldering without worrying about being unfit for a trip. Mind you malham should be starting to come into good condition soon.

Diet pretty well and im now down to 70.5kg so 5.5kg down since christmas

Hopefully i will start seeing this benefiting my climbing.

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Si dH 15 Mar 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Cheers Matt. I tried yoga about 6 years ago and injured my hamstring on a heel hook after I'd been doing it for a couple of months. That badly affected my climbing for a few months and I put it down to the muscle being overly stretched and weakened by the yoga, so I've never done yoga again. However some more gentle and progressive stretching would no doubt be a good idea! 

M: rest

T: fingerboard session, just a variety of body weight hangs on the lattice edge and some pockets, to build strength gradually in the fingers that have been tweaked recently (one has been dodgy for a while and I tweaked another at Pex last Sunday) . Also did a bunch of TRX work. 

W: rest

T: fingerboard session again. Ramped it up a bit with some hangs on the lattice edge with bodyweight+15kg, pull-ups on the good bm2000 edges with bodyweight+25kg, and some body weight hangs with middle/front/back 2. Both quite a way below my max still, but at the level that I hope I'll be getting some training benefit.  If nothing else, continuing to build some more confidence in my fingers again. I also quite enjoyed it - this is good as I've found fingerboarding fairly dull in recent months. 

F: wife's birthday so ate and drank a lot

S: ditto

S: went to Trowbarrow for the first time.  Made good progress on Shallow Grave (f7A+), which I think should go next visit if it is properly dry - several holds were damp or slightly smeggy today. Also had a play on The Pit Problem (f7B) but the crux felt desperate. 

Didn't get to the wall this week. I am one of these people who always has to blow their nose when exercising hard,  even when completely well. So don't think I'll feel very welcome from the people around me. Might go down at some point when it should be quiet. 

Si

Post edited at 16:26
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Si dH 15 Mar 2020
In reply to jackob:

> Think ive now spent 6 sessions trying neds problem. Never put so much effort into a problem before this. It does feel very close now but i am starting to get very frustrated with it too. All part of the fun though.

As long as you are enjoying it,  keep trying. If you are that close then most likely one attempt it will just click and you'll find yourself at the top. If you get to the point where it feels like work,  I'd try at least a session on something else then go back to it. It can also be really helpful to climb with a friend if you are normally go on your own,  or vice versa, to change the environment a bit. Each of the hardest ~5 problems I've done have taken over 10 sessions so I understand the feeling. 

Edit: and remember that even if you have a session when you feel tired and go backwards,  you are probably still engraining the muscle memory a bit more and improving your chances of success next visit. 

Post edited at 16:35
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Powderpuff 15 Mar 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Hey Matt,

Been forgetful so 2 weeks in one post.

Tuesday 3rd : Went to the wall climbed two v4 , two v5 and a new v6! Pleased with that then worked on a v7. Three sets of 20 press ups and sit ups. Three sets of 10 eccentric wrist curls and leg raises.

Friday:
Went to the wall and took it easy only climbing up to v4. Did theraband rountine for shoulders and then , three sets of 20 press ups and sit ups. Three sets of 10 eccentric wrist curls and leg raises.

Sunday: 5 max hangs on beastmaker at home then same exercises as Friday.

Tuesday: at the wall climbed....climbed two v4 , two v5 and repeated the v6 from last week. then tried a v8, could only do one move but I enjoyed it. Usual full set of antagonist exercises to finish.

Thursday: felt very tried, but churned out an easy session climbing up to v3 and then did three sets of 20 press ups and sit ups. Three sets of 10 eccentric wrist curls and leg raises.

Sunday: took the kids to the wall and managed to climb a few easy problems up to v3.

Post edited at 16:39
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AlanLittle 15 Mar 2020
In reply to mattrm:

> I still enjoy doing stuff with my parents and I'm 37

I managed a weekend out with my son this week, but it didn't turn out quite as planned ...

STG: Survive the pandemic; still be on speaking terms with my family at the end of two weeks voluntary self-quarantine. 
MTG: Re-plan Kalymnos trip to the Autumn
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber by 2021, starting with getting up something big, steep & classic on Kalymnos in the spring. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

M: Caught up with the beastmaker max hangs I didn't do yesterday. Haven't progressed for a while on the crimpd 6 x 10 second routine, so went shorter & heavier to mix it up a bit. 
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Still too crowded. Nevertheless found a very nice 7a by my favourite setter to play with. Not very steep, unfortunately, but is on slopers to still anti-style to a reasonable degree.
W: 
T: Moonboard: more slow but steady progress. This is definitely legit self-isolation, there's hardly ever anybody else on the moonboard that I use.
F: 

S: Ski Club, Sölden. Had planned a trip with my son and a good friend I haven't seen for while, then Tyrol announced on Friday at they were closing all ski areas at close of business on Sunday. Fair enough we thought, we'll wash our hands and carry on. It turned out to be more exciting than that - see my other post. Anyway, Saturday was nice & quiet - unsurprisingly - and decent snow but some spells of poor to zero visibility. During one of which I somehow made my way (carefully!) down a black run. Go me.

S: Started off happily skiing in the morning in absolute dream conditions - sunshine, enough new snow from yesterday to freshen up the pistes, hardly anybody on the mountain. Then in the course of the morning to have the state of Tyrol decided to close the ski area at midday instead of at close of business. Drove home - returning visitors still allowed out and into Germany today. Perhaps not for very much longer.  

(Plan to do some max hangs later on in the evening)

I don't at this point still think I will be going to Kalymnos in May.
 

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AlanLittle 15 Mar 2020
In reply to mattrm:

FURTHER THOUGHTS ON SKI CLUB & COVID-19

This might be important information for anybody who was in Austria recently (@Jackob, Rebecca). 

On Friday Tyrol announced that all ski areas would close at close of business on Sunday, and all tourist accommodation on Monday to allow visitors time to travel home without too much chaos.  Then something must have got drastically worse, because *this morning* they decided to close ski areas at midday and ask foreign visitors to leave by the evening. Which I did, and am now on advice from the German health ministry at home in voluntary self-quarantine.

Ichgl had a big COVID-19 outbreak, and Ischgl and St Anton have been closed and quarantined since the middle of last week. Foreign visitors allowed out and advised to self-quarantine at home; Austrian non-locals not even allowed out. Locals I spoke to now expect the same on a valley-by-valley basis for the whole Tyrol as of tomorrow.

How they're handling this financially is also interesting. The federal government - so I was told by a business owner in Ötztal - has already ordered banks to suspend payments on business loans, and guaranteed seasonal workers' wages up to when the season would have ended. Details still being worked out regarding a compensation package for business owners, but there will definitely be one. Probably easier to put something like that together in a small country heavily dependent on a single industry.

And for myself: I've spent a lot of time this winter in what suddenly turns out to have been a high risk area. I'm in a higher risk age group, and as I see it my chances of avoiding infection for a year or more until we have a vaccine are about nil. But I'm fit, and have the good fortune to live in a country with a top notch healthcare system. Inshallah.

And there are worse ways to flee the zombie apocalypse than a completely deserted ski piste from a 3000 metre peak on immaculate snow in glorious sunshine.

Post edited at 17:37
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Tom Green 15 Mar 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Hi Everyone. Cheers for the continued statting Matt.

Apologies for being AWOL for the last couple of weeks... Cham trip.

Week 10:

M: Sat in the pub gloomily watching a foot of snow fall, cursing the skiers who were celebrating the arrival of the pow and watching the climbing avvi risk climb higher and higher. 

T: Lift up to Plan Refuge and put a trail in to the bottom of the Col du Plan .

W: Skinned up from refuge, climbed Fil à Plomb (TD) with skis on our backs (not as shit as anticipated) then spent half a lifetime breaking trail from the Plan Rognon to the Midi. Even on skis it literally took as long to traverse across to the Midi as it did to climb the route. The sun set, the weather crapped out, the powder varied between knee and thigh depth and I lost the clip off the back of one skin, necessitating post-holing for all of the uphill. Cue an unplanned bivi in the midi toilets -luxury!

T: A relaxed(?) day wondering if we'd ever get down from the Midi... awful weather meant the lift didn't run (and also meant we weren't keen to ski out down the VB!) The lift eventually ran at 2:30, landing us back in Cham in time for a late Poco Loco lunch!

F: Weather watching, plotting and scheming, eating.

S: Skinned up to Argentiere hut.

S: Skinned in to Charlet route on Mt Dolent, but the route was dry, the approach slopes loaded and psyche low after some very negative vibes from the hut guardian (practically forbidding us from climbing!!) -turned around and skied the Argentiere Glaciere back to the pistes. Down in time for second breakfast!

Week 11:

M: Weather Watching -a poor spectator sport.

T: Weather Watching Round 2 -not much more fun than round 1.

W: Late decisions meant getting tangled in pow-day carnage at the midi-lift, but managed to ski over to the Tacul E face and get the skin/bootpack to the bottom of the Supercouloir (ED1 6) by 12:30. The first two mixed pitches of the direct start made the route -fantastic climbing. Credit for success goes to Alex who pulled off an amazing catch as the front half of my crampon fell off as I was heading up pitch two. This pitch was brilliant climbing (after down-climbing to the belay to reassemble my crampon!) -tough techy start, recovery section then pull through a chunky overhang of snow ice in to the teeth of a fairly lairy stream of spindrift. Epic. Rest of the route was steady, moving together up the couloir ice. Crux of the day was probably skiing out by headtorch!

T: Rest

F: Rest and prevarication... should we fit a final route in or give in to poor cons, coronavirus and resting on laurels?

S: Ran away.

S: Home for some self isolation.

STG (End April 2020):

Run the Cheshire Gritstone Trail https://www.cheshireeast.gov.uk/pdf/ranger-service/countryside-sites/cec_gritstone_trail_leaflet(fin)_accessible.pdf 1  

Two big alpine routes off my hit list (TICK)

Squeeze in another few days Scottish Winter?!

Plan summer goals and training

LTG (End 2020):

Run 25km vert (3.9/25)

50+ days climbing (16/50)

Post edited at 18:49
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AJM 15 Mar 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Matt - yes shoulders doing ok now.

Oh dear oh dear what a week. Bad sleep, feeling a bit wiped out, and I lost a good day or day and a half of my work week to market crash related faff which means I’m a bit behind on everything. Still, at least it gave my shoulder a bit of rest early week. Our friends unfortunately cancelled on this weekend - self isolation - but that allowed me to claw back some semblance of training from the week. 

Decision point end of next week about our holiday - not so much from the perspective of it being any more risky for us but given the number of family of my parents generation or above we are supposed to be seeing en route - few of them high risk but still.....

Monday - rest

Tuesday - rest

Wednesday - rest

Thursday - I think I did about 3x7 side raises with dumbbells at increased weight of about 7kg

Friday - 3x4-5 ring dips. These felt better than last time.

Saturday - 3x7 bicep curls with a 13kg dumbbell. Then finally some aerobic training. Put some gloves on and did 5-3-5-3-5 aerobic on the foot on campus board - feet on the ground just behind it and just moving hands round the board. Got pumped as fast as you would expect from someone who hasn’t done any aerobic fitness since the summer, but that’s all good. Got to start somewhere.

Sunday - 3 sets archer rows. Trying to get these a bit cleaner form, so lower reps, trying to make sure the “bow” arm is staying straight, not getting some bicep assist on the way up and then straightening by just pushing out to the side. 3 sets side raises. Then gloves back on again and onto the foot on campus board for some 5-3-5-3-5 action.

Didn’t get time to do the crack machine too this weekend, so that’s a carry over, but pleased to have clawed things back this weekend albeit in unfortunate circumstances and I’ve done a bunch of other admin stuff to try to create some space this week. God knows about goals, can’t predict what the coming week will bring really. In theory, there’s a lot of deadline early week and then it should ease, but events will undoubtedly wreak havoc. In theory, my parents are down this weekend, but in reality who can say....

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AJM 15 Mar 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

> Which I did, and am now on advice from the German health ministry at home in voluntary self-quarantine.

stay strong!

on a cheerier note and with an eye on better times, Would you recommend any suitable introductory information source for the Austrian/south German bits of the alps? Alpine limestone sort of stuff preferably. Threads this week piqued my interest in an area I’d sort of known existed but knew nothing about, but there seem to be an awful lot of different area guidebooks to simply buy something on spec - although at the same time I’m aware this might be like saying “is there a select guide to the U.K.” or something similar. Ditto have you ever been roped climbing in Zillertal?

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AlanLittle 15 Mar 2020
In reply to AJM:

How‘s your German? Or at least your ability to use google translate in conjunction with a topo? I think the language barrier is a major reason why these areas are so unknown in the wider world.

I‘m going to have plenty of time to get back to you on this, and will do so. Meanwhile tjekel‘s recent list is a great starting point.

I have had a rope on a few times in Zillertal, but I always get my ass kicked on granite because I don‘t do much of it. Plus Austrian grades are nails.

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mattrm 15 Mar 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

> Which I did, and am now on advice from the German health ministry at home in voluntary self-quarantine.

Sorry to hear that Alan.  I hope you and your family are all ok.

As current advice from the UK government is to self-isolate even if you have a cold, we're in a similar boat, as myself, my wife and my son all have the same cold.  Almost certainly not covid, but we're staying isolated anyway.

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AJM 15 Mar 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

My German is terrible, but I have had reasonable experience with Google Translate whilst trying to scrape together beta for Wendenstock etc. I suspect you may be right!

I have also done fairly small amounts of granite, so suspect I might have the same experience - but it looks nice, and it’s always good to experience different places!

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Si dH 15 Mar 2020
In reply to mattrm:

It's only if you have a temperature over 37.8c or a persistent cough for over 4 hours that you need to self-isolate.  A normal runny nose job often doesn't cause those things. (we also have the usual toddler-induced cold filled house at the moment,  but that's all it is.)

Edit: I can't immediately re-find those numbers now. I'm sure I saw them on a government website the day the guidance was issued. It now just says a high temperature or continuous cough. 

Edit2: get well soon whatever it is!! 

Post edited at 22:28
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Ally Smith 16 Mar 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks for the stats again Matt - brilliant sustained effort in keeping us all stat'd and motivated.

Scrappy week from me; missed a couple of days training when I was faffing with eBay purchase collection and failing to get out on the bike 'cos of a mechanical issue (and being nesh - it was damp & windy!)

Week 11

M – Cave. Weather forecast was off and temperature rose more than predicted, resulting in heavy condensation. Managed a few goes on Halfway House before that happened, but seepage meant I was going into TC with damp fingers. Rested, then tried Nightlife lots; was consistently getting 2nd gaston, but never got the hold with pinky engaged, which is how I need to grip to complet rollover. Very frustrating session. However, great that I had no shoulder or groin grumbles after doing a lot of what would previously have been tweaky moves 😊

T – Collected an eBay weights bench for doing bench-press at home. Weighted planks (3x 40s on/20s off; x2 – good ab burn). Bunch of kettle bell core and shoulder stabiliser work in front of belly vision.

W – Eff all. After-work tour of 3 DIY stores trying to locate critical plumbing hardware.

T – More of the same. 90min swearing at plumbing.

F – Felt compelled to get out before BoJo declares a lockdown. Cave again; a bit of seepage to contend with, but dryable. A few crap goes, then one real solid one where I got the Trigger Cut knee in perfectly. Smashed on and topped out Halfway House (V11). Tried a few other things and repeated some 7C’s with aplomb, which pretty much confirms that Halfway isn’t 7C+! Got footage which I will edit and post once the inevitable happens and I'm confined to home.

S – DIY club. Flooring finished, then scotia. Managed to squeeze in 3sets 6reps bench @56kg. I am pathetically weak at these! 1rep max calculator reckons if I can do 12 reps @56kg I should finally be able to bench my bodyweight. https://strengthlevel.com/one-rep-max-calculator

S – DIY club again. Father in-law took the lead of plumbing and finally sorted the persistent leak. Then painting. So much painting. Nearly done now. Thankfully looks reet handsome.

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In reply to mattrm:

Thanks for the stats Matt. 

Well done to Tom for some strong alpine performances and Ally for big ticks in The Cave. Much work I forced rest days this week. 

Mon. Rest 

Tues. Depot Sheffield. Did everything on the red V3-V5 circuit which I underestimated and was pretty drained by the end.

Wed. Rest

Thurs. 5km run

Fri. Tor session back on Ben's. Done in 3 sections this eve, 4moves, 3 moves, 9moves. First time I've done the crux sequence in one go.

Sat.rest.

Sun. Depot again. Mixture of blacks to warm up and purples to pull hard. 

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the sheep 16 Mar 2020
In reply to mattrm:

> the sheep - Is the elbow ok this week?  Lots of steadyt work there.  Well done.

Thanks Matt, elbows are fine. Eased of on the hand paddle work. Obviously going too hard too soon with them. Steady week again.

Monday, rest

Tuesday, 5k run and 1km swim

Wednesday, 1km swim

Thursday, 1km swim and stretch class

Friday, 1km swim

Saturday, 7km trail run

Sunday, pottered around doing jobs at home

Given that the wife's marathon plans have now gone out of the window and most likely my planed triathlons will too we have decided to do something different. Plan is at some point over the summer to take on the route of the Edale Skyline fell race 

https://www.ukhillwalking.com/logbook/r/?i=20

Looks like a fab challenge for a long run!

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AlanLittle 16 Mar 2020
In reply to AJM:

So, yeah, eastern Alps limestone. It's infinite. It became clear to me shortly after I commenced Climbing Career 2.0 that it would take several lifetimes to scratch the surface; there are entire ranges I haven't visited.

Otoh if you restrict yourself to the limestone - there is also plenty of stuff on gneiss & granite - it can get a bit same-y. Climb one water-runnelled limestone slab and you've climbed them all, to some degree. But it's not all water-runnelled slabs, scenery is amazing etc etc. 

Tjekel's recent posting on here is excellent - I assume it's what prompted you to ask? 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/destinations/eastern_alps_limestone_multipitch_ticklist_4b-6b-716727?v=1#x9146779

I did a write-up of my one trip to the (amazing) Gesäuse on ukb: 

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26160.msg496098.html#msg496098

> is there a select guide?

Yes. Genussklettern Österreich Mitte is the Austrian equivalent of Schweiz Plaisir, but entirely in German. Iirc there has been an Österreich Ost volume too, but it appears to be out of print.

https://alpinverlag.at/genussklettern-oesterreich-mitte/

The same authors also run a highly useful website that has excellent topos and lets you filter by region, grade etc. Bear in mind when filtering by region that there are entire ranges with huge amounts of world class climbing that you've never even heard of.

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/

Then there's a website that does have an English version, that covers the bit of Austria that Brit climbers actually are aware of - Tyrol. Mainly covers single pitch sport, for which it is fairly comprehensive, but some multipitch stuff in there too

https://www.climbers-paradise.com/en/

Post edited at 11:10
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Tom Green 16 Mar 2020
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

> Well done to Tom for some strong alpine performances and Ally for big ticks in The Cave.

 

Thanks mate! 

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Tom Green 16 Mar 2020
In reply to the sheep:

> Looks like a fab challenge for a long run!

Great shout! Might nick that to go on my list of inspiring long hill runs!

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In reply to AlanLittle:

Thanks Alan. We were last there in December, so before anything kicked off. I have to admit I had been dreaming of the idea of self-isolation ski touring and snow camping over the last few weeks, but have managed my expectations down to the fingerboard for now!

Looking forward to seeing your finger gains over the next fortnight!

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AJM 16 Mar 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

Thanks Alan.

It came about from the intersection of two or three things:

- the first is the fact that since I don't have that much climbing excitement going on right now I've been doing too much speculative trip planning for future. And having sampled some of the Swiss alpine limestone the idea that the extension across the border would be equally good isn't a hard one to sell me on.

- the second is also thinking about flying a bit less, which shifts the range of potential trips especially with children in tow - but Austria has the advantage over places of an equivalent distance of being served by sleeper trains better, and in my head a night on a sleeper would test my patience less than trying to entertain the children travelling an equivalent distance on a daytime train.

- the third is certainly Tjekels ticklist, which made me think I should do more digging

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mattrm 16 Mar 2020
In reply to Si dH:

> It's only if you have a temperature over 37.8c or a persistent cough for over 4 hours that you need to self-isolate.  A normal runny nose job often doesn't cause those things. (we also have the usual toddler-induced cold filled house at the moment,  but that's all it is.)

Yeah, we've all had a pretty solid cough and the toddler had a slight fever.  We're also all Asthmatic, so we're a bit worried from that point of view.  So we'd rather be safe than sorry.  Also the people we'd then have contact with are also old and asthmatic.  We can work from home fine and that's all good.

> W: Late decisions meant getting tangled in pow-day carnage at the midi-lift, but managed to ski over to the Tacul E face and get the skin/bootpack to the bottom of the Supercouloir (ED1 6) by 12:30. The first two mixed pitches of the direct start made the route -fantastic climbing. Credit for success goes to Alex who pulled off an amazing catch as the front half of my crampon fell off as I was heading up pitch two. This pitch was brilliant climbing (after down-climbing to the belay to reassemble my crampon!) -tough techy start, recovery section then pull through a chunky overhang of snow ice in to the teeth of a fairly lairy stream of spindrift. Epic. Rest of the route was steady, moving together up the couloir ice. Crux of the day was probably skiing out by headtorch!

That's seriously impressive.  That's a super classic route.  Very impressive.  I'd love to climb something like that.

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Tom Green 16 Mar 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks mate, wanted to climb it since reading about it in a Nick Bullock piece in On The Edge about sixteen years ago! Maybe I waited too long to get on it as it didn’t feel as much of an epic fight as I always thought it would/should!! Super chuffed to have got it climbed at last though. Justifies some of that time scratching around at White Goods!!

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Si dH 16 Mar 2020
In reply to mattrm:

> Yeah, we've all had a pretty solid cough and the toddler had a slight fever.  We're also all Asthmatic, so we're a bit worried from that point of view.  So we'd rather be safe than sorry.  Also the people we'd then have contact with are also old and asthmatic.  We can work from home fine and that's all good.

Fair enough, that's definitely a good reason!  Today's advice has ramped it all up a notch again. Going to be a difficult time for walls. 

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Bones [:B 17 Mar 2020
In reply to mattrm:

> Bones - Ooooo, 3 runs!  1 fingerboard tho...  Oh well.  Rest weeks are good to do from time to time.  I guess you'll get a run in?

Haha, not even one run last week. I had a complete week off for various reasons. Wasn't really feeling motivated and super busy at my parents.

Mon-Sun: rest!

Looks like I'm going to be at home for the foreseeable future so going to work on a more intensive fingerboard programme and devise a pregnancy workout to do in the flat. Suggestions welcome. So far I have thought of squats. I can just about manage 2 pull-ups now (previously I could do around 10) but it does hurt my stomach a tiny bit so not sure how much to work on that.

Hope everyone is ok.

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annak 18 Mar 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Yep, USA trip obviously cancelled now. Bugger.

M: run 45min

Tu: indoor lead, aerocap

W: -

Th: climbing walls closing but nice weather, so a fairly unproductive outdoor bouldering sesh

F: -

Sa: outdoor lead

Su: raining, ran 45 min

Working from home for the foreseeable future, climbing walls are closed, outdoor trips probably largely off the cards. No long trips away from Oslo, no trips to the mountains, certainly no trips abroad.

Not entirely sure what I'm going to post here next week. Sure I'll think of something.

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AJM 18 Mar 2020
In reply to annak:

> Not entirely sure what I'm going to post here next week. Sure I'll think of something.

Is it worth us having a bit of a discussion thread of ideas for home training/etc? Try to help people think of some new ideas and keep things fresh.

It's hardly like I've been getting out a lot of late anyway but I'm expecting to lose the wall pretty soon so more time spent at home, some variety will be important to stave off the boredom...

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Si dH 18 Mar 2020
In reply to AJM:

Sounds good. 

Working from home means less commute time so is actually fairly helpful for training.

(currently doing an early morning fingerboard session)

Edit: for anyone who doesn't currently follow the lattice training community discussion group on Facebook, Tom R has said he will share on there from this week a set of extra videos for home training ideas. 

Post edited at 08:35
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AJM 18 Mar 2020
In reply to Si dH:

I find squeezing in a few sets of weights in particular (less warm up time than for fingers I find) is easy to do in what would have been a coffee break, whereas in the evenings I often struggle with motivation.

Plus the commute time as you say.

Anyone else interested? I don't want to start a seperate thread if it's just going to flop!

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AJM 18 Mar 2020
planetmarshall 18 Mar 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Thu - Substation Macclesfield. Strength projects on the system board.

Fri - Depot Sheffield. Managed one of the harder Red problems which is progress on that front.

Sat - Last coaching session with Katherine at the Foundry. Focussed on route reading, strategy and other soft skills. Did a fun 6a+ on huge jugs up the comp wall. Chatted briefly to Ben Moon - hope I'm in anything like that kind of shape in my 50s. Looks like that will be the last indoor session for the forseeable.

Sun - Took a brief wander up to Castle Naze which I will probably be making many visits to over the next few months.

STG

  • 4 leads at HVS or above
  • Maintain strength gains
  • Tick all the routes at Castle Naze up to VDiff
  • 2 x trail runs up to 10km.

MTG

Mostly working out what I can do. Fortunately living in the Peak I can access many crags without coming into contact with anyone, and may use the opportunity to do some local esoterica.

* Tick all the routes at Castle Naze up to E1.

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Cyan 18 Mar 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Matt! I did manage 3 wall sessions but in glorious retrospect wish I'd stayed longer and tried harder because I fear they will be the last for a long time.

Current exercise consists of a couple of hours walking per day (to and from work with a detour to the park or marshes on the way home). Will start doing some yoga and core I think.

Thanks for the other thread Andy - good ideas.

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annak 19 Mar 2020
In reply to AJM:

That's a good idea! Maybe we need some new fitclub challenges?

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In reply to planetmarshall:

I'd be up for some Castle Naze trad sessions once all these nasty germ stuff has blown over.  I finish work at 3pm in Chapel so generally good for a late pm early eve session.  I've done most of the sub E1 routes but happy to second you up these if you fancy seconding some of the E1s over on the right hand side.

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UKB Shark 19 Mar 2020
In reply to jackob:

> Thurs: Did max hangs before bouldering as a friend recommended it as a good way to get recruited when in fact i think it just tired me out. 

I don’t know how this advice has gained so much traction although when you start digging you find that the so-called max hangs are often sub-maximal.

Tyler Nelson advocates doing the hangs in the evening after a climbing day with at least 4 hours rest beforehand. It’s an approach that’s working for me. I’m doing mine now in fact!

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Steve Jones 21 Mar 2020
In reply to mattrm:

> Steve Jones - Good job on the momentum!  Lots of running and climbing, awesome!

Thanks. And thanks for all the hard work. This forum will be interesting next week, but I'm getting head of myself.

M - 1hr20 bouldering including a session on Kongs new Digital Training Board - 25* overhang, symmetrical hold set up. Did 3-4 probs (all mirrored) and scored 1212 points. No Idea what that means.

T - KAC session: 6x4mins up Latrigg, 2 min recover (~11k total, 367m vert)

W - 2hrs 20, routes at Kong. New project is leading longer, slightly overhanging 6c.

T - KAC session, 6x800m (rest c.90s) the 2x400 to finish (c.11.5k)

F - morning run round park - 6k, 30mins. evening 2hrs 20 routes. no progress on project

S - Round latrigg 10k, 362m, 70min. Then moved house. Only a stones throw from my old place, and still on the floodplain, but it's mine and more spacious. Hope to get a decent gym into the conservatory ready for lockdown...

S - 7k round town 36mins.

STG - Get my new flat into a good training venue! Sort out my kit and get my shit organised. Eat healthier!

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mattrm 22 Mar 2020
In reply to mattrm:

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Definitely bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 6lbs

M - Rest

T - 3 m walk

W - F - Rest

Odd week.  Picked up a nasty cold/cough/mild fever.  So ended up self-isolating on Friday as per guidelines.  Spent most of the time sorting things out.  All exercise etc went a bit by the wayside.  I suspect that averages will take a big hit.  We'll see.

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