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UKC Fit Club Week 704

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 mattrm 13 Sep 2020

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:- http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html  also this - https://www.instagram.com/p/CEGfCg7DbkK/?igshid=4a1o55jwpus2

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:- http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

Last weeks post - https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_703-724580

Somerset swede basher - Lots of good sessions.  Have you sent aberration yet?

AJM - 4 days, very nice.  Lots of good DWSing.  Those blackout tents are ace.

Steve Jones - Sorry I missed you, lovely to see you back.  All the Wainrights in 60 days, that's impressive.  Congrats on the first leads.  You've got a ton of easy classics to go at, have fun.  Even better that you're doing them with your dad.  That's lovely.

Si dH - No worries, glad everyone is ok.  Lots of ace TRXing.  Pity the Lakes was damp, that is a bit of an issue there isn't it.

Ally Smith - Glad to see you burned Gareth off, that's always important.  Also well done on keeping the finger ok.  Lots of nice ticks and other bits.

AlanLittle - Hope the cold has gone.  Other wise a few solid wall sessions.

the sheep - Nice swimming and running as always.

Tom Green - Gogarth sounds lovely, congrats on the E2.  Also same for Californian Arete, that's a classic isn't it.

biscuit - I hope you get a few ticks next week.  Glad to see you've sorted out the mindset.

rossislegend - Welcome to fit club.  Well done on the muscle ups, that's impressive.  Hope the grit went well for you?

Rebecca Ting - Never not yoga.  Well done on the f7A, great job on the bouldering sessions.  What's the new Boulders like?  Nice to see that they've expanded.  Good running and walking as well.  Nice to see you back.

miso - Yeah, the Saxon stuff sounds interesting.  I didn't realise you could buy the wedges, I assumed you had to make them.  Good call to concentrate on the footwork.

Bones - Good solid runs, nice cheeky bouldering session and a decent looking strength session.

mattrm - Yeh lazy tubber.

 Si dH 13 Sep 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks again Matt. 

M: Did my some TRX hamstring curls, plus prone Ts, prone Ys and low rows.

T: Tried to do a board session but felt wasted, not sure why but couldn't even do my warm-ups. Possibly a bug? Just did some TRX instead.

W: Again, tried to do a board session but had no energy, decided to take a few days rest.

T: rest

F: rest

S: rest

S: Morning trip to Llandudno. Parisellas first to warm up and I got a quick repeat of Parisella's Original (V6). Also had a few goes on Beaver Cleaver (V8) but really just getting solid on the big throw move again, I didn't want to invest too much energy in the crux. Then went to Pillbox wall which was my main aim for the day. Spent almost all my time on Pill Box Original (V6). I did it from a stand and sorted out the sitter moves very quickly, but found a hand bump to link the two really draining and core-y, so the problem put up a much bigger fight than expected. More like 7A+. Got very close to holding the last hard move on two occasions, but not quite. Will have to go back soon. Also had a very brief play on The Greek (V6) before leaving, another one to do when I go back. Nice half day out and got a bunch of gardening done afterwards.


 rossislegend 13 Sep 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Cheers! My arms are still getting used to intense bodyweight pushing so I think I'll keep these power sessions capped at once a week. Grit went well today, explored two new venues.

Last week:

M - Stretches

T - Power session and antagonists

W - Stretches

T - Little evening circuit at Nesscliffe. Good to move on rock even if it's easier stuff (but still feels nails because Nesscliffe)

F - Stretches, in jeans because I was out and knew I wouldn't do them when I got home!

S - Nowt!

S - Explored  Rowtor Rocks and got a couple of proud ticks, Short Sean's Reachy Roof (f7A) and Blood Falls (f7A+). Also tried Short Sean's Proper but sacked it off - toe hook was slipping and I was getting frustrated. In hindsight it probably could've gone with a big old rest as I've sussed the beta now. On the way back home I figured I'd make use of the remaining light and check out  Gib Torr. Didn't get anything done as my skin is thin and the rock is incredibly coarse! Spotted a few spicy things I fancy over winter with fresh skin, anyone keen for grit highballs get in touch ;) Also eyed up Tierdrop (f7A+) on the drive back, so psyched to get back on that!

Next week:

M - Stretches

T - Power session, but might bring portable hangboard to the bars and give the digits a bit of action.

W - Stretches

Rest of the week will be stretches and birthday festivities with the girlfriend, hopefully I can squeeze in a couple of hours somewhere in there!

 rossislegend 13 Sep 2020
In reply to Si dH:

Parisellas Original looks top! I've still yet to actually climb on the Orme, reckon it's worth a hit this autumn?

 Si dH 13 Sep 2020
In reply to rossislegend:

Not sure where you live but there is lots of good stuff to do there and autumn is a good time, yep. The cave is all very steep with decent holds, lots of polish but the moves are good. Ally of this parish knows it like the back of his hand. Pillbox wall is very different, like a board on crimps. Lovely place to be on a nice day.

Good effort getting those grit problems done on a warm day!

In reply to mattrm:

"Steve Jones - Sorry I missed you, lovely to see you back.  All the Wainrights in 60 days, that's impressive.  Congrats on the first leads.  You've got a ton of easy classics to go at, have fun.  Even better that you're doing them with your dad.  That's lovely."

Thanks - it's good to be back! Been another good week:

M - A fairly flat 5k in the morning followed by 25 mins of trying to work out what strenghth/weight training I can do without making the pec worse. Still not sure on that front.

T - 10.5k (330m D+ ) hill sprints with the club.

W - (3rd aniversary of my BGR) Steel Knotts Bluff with dad - Picnic (D)Sandwich (VD)Pop (S 4a)Biscuit (HS 4c), and Cake (S 4a). Then 13km (400m D+) around Latrigg

T - Trod Tethera (VD), Trod Methera (S 3c), Trod Pimp (S 3c), and Trod Lethera (D) with dad, then 11k (280m D+) round Latrigg. then finished the day with a curry. Not a bad way to spend your birthday!!

F - Planned a long run, popped in Kong Running and got invited on thier staff Altra shoes test run so did that - 7km (300m D+) - then went and had a couple of pints...

S - 5km round the park before work (only shift of the week) and 8km (340m D+) after work.

S - Rest day

Trying to pack in more climbing and running whilst I have the time and the weather is OK. For the climbing I'm doing I don't need to worry about strength etc. so not bothered about specific training for that at the moment. Need to get the technical/ropework stuff down though!

In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Matt. I tried hard, but ultimately nope! This week I have almost climbed a couple of different things several times but not actually managed to get to the top of anything! I've had 2 sessions on the 7c+ circuit on the heeley boulder where I fell off the last move a total of 4 times and a session on aberration where I fell just before the rest. I did managed to do it in two overlapping halves twice with only a short hang on the rope and now have a proper sequence so hopefully I'm in for a chance next session. On the circuit on the Heeley boulder the move I'm struggling with is a big throw off double undercuts. I can do it in isolation most goes but after 28moves I can't. More fitness should unlock both projects so, seeing as my finger is still grumbling anyway, they'll be more getting pumped this week! I've also been snotty and bleugh in the middle of the week so sacked off any cardio this week to speed up recovery. 

 AlanLittle 14 Sep 2020
In reply to mattrm:

> AlanLittle - Hope the cold has gone.  Other wise a few solid wall sessions.

Fully recovered thanks Matt. Having to treat oneself as a leper because of a bit of minor sniffle is just one of the many unwelcome new experiences 2020 has brought.

STG: Sport: 7a redpoint, hopefully reducing the large & growing collection of projects.
      Trad: I have now completely abandoned hope of getting something done in the Dolomites this year. Hopefully next year.
MTG: Autumn Kalymnos trip. Do a beginner ski tour in spring 2021
    Dolomites summer 2021
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber by 2021. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

M: Felt considerably better, but decided another day of rest & recovery from the weekend's cold would do me more good than jumping back into training too soon.

T: Feeling better again but still not 100%, so going to the wall would have been antisocial in current circumstances. Did a beastmaker session at home instead. Slightly more towards max hangs than Sunday's session, and the slightly suspect A3 pulley held up well. Good.

W: Well! Either lattice endurance routines work or (involuntarily extended) deload weeks do. Went to the wall at Weyarn today; the autobelay section has been re-set so did a not particularly structured session just trying to tick stuff. My during-route endurance was good, and more importantly my session stamina, in terms of number of plausible attempts on hardish routes, was through the roof. Excellent. Let's see what another three-weeks-on-one-off cycle brings.
F: Wall, Weyarn. Nose back to the grindstone: crimpd Capacity Power session #3
S: Sport climbing, Zellerwand. Out with a friend who was setting foot on rock for the first time this year, so nothing ambitious. Pleasant relaxed mileage day.

 Ally Smith 14 Sep 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks for the stats again Matt :-D

More finger progress this week; trying not to push it too much and avoid the vert crimpers for now.

Week 37: 

M – Board session. Right lat sore whilst warming up, but settles down. Discovered a new “7A” nemesis which goes by the name of “Kim Se Jeong IOI” (some of the comments rate it 7C!) Did a “7C benchmark” in 3 goes, “The Golden Bough” which felt easier than either of my nemesis “7A”s and then inched closer and closer to the big move on “Masterful Gap Alt, 7C” before finally nailing that move and continuing to the top; very satisfying! Tried a few more 7A-B problems but ended up leaving majority undone. Need to work on session stamina a bit (an-cap/an-power?)

T – Experimented with freshly delivered Tension Block and Tension Flash-board from https://darkventures.co.uk/ (new importers of Tension climbing to UK) in conjunction BFR cuffs. Probably overcooked it with pressure/duration as still had some discolouration the following morning. (150 mmHg 4-5min at a time).

Flash board 20kg concentric lifts to get a solid pump; F2 crimp lifts on Tension block; 20kg, 3x 30s lift. Hard on left but doable. Should have used a bit more for right-hand?

Cuffs off and “standard” tendon density protocol; F3 drag, BW, 3x 30s hangs (dropped at 25-8s on all as felt too intense).

Bench: warm-up, then 3x 3rep 65kg.

Crimpd small edge; 6x 7s hangs on 6mm micros @ BW (these felt surprisingly alright; psyched to get strong on the micros again so I might stand a chance on my 1-move grit project…)

COMPEX in front of the TV:

forearms (capillarisation)

Sore lat (recovery)

Groin & core (strength)

W – Various aches and DOMS. Felt a general fatigue for no apparent reason (stealth dehydration?) 24km at 28kph flat ride with heavy legs.

T – Rushed evening Orme session. 2 dogging goes on newbie; 

#1: Pulled through to try crux (which had been wet previous time on it) and deciphered awesome sequence: Mono-jam/heel-hook/match-pinch-under-heel. Pulled a hold off next hard bit.

#2: Worked out start again. 2x knees; standard ;-) Repeated rest of it, and some short links. Did moves past broken hold after a clean-up.

Brief cave boulder; re-worked The Wire. Heel-toe on Broken Heart was tweaking knee a bit Warmed down on Lip-Stick and dry fired off, missing the pad, proper horizontal body-slammer.

F – Lucky not top be feeling too beaten up by fall - got away with elbow graze/bruise. Stretching only.

S – Devil’s Gorge. Ab to clean and sort final 2 bolts. 4 tie-ins with much faff and cleaning along the way: Dog to half height. Dog to ¾ height. Half-hearted lead attempt – dog to top (glad I sorted last bit and located the hidden hold!) Successful RP; An Ivory Smile (7c) bought back from the dead with new stainless glue-in bolts and a decent scrub.

S – Last chance to meet up as a >6 group. Exercise limited to cycling to/from Tatton Park and playing with sproggles on the monkey bars.

Post edited at 11:15
 AJM 14 Sep 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Thanks Matt. Nothing really to report from the last week itself - the usual madness of trying to tidy away work before holiday whilst also packing sucked up all my spare time. Started holiday from this weekend but I'll wrap up the start of the trio for next week's edition.



 biscuit 16 Sep 2020
In reply to mattrm:

STG: be consistent with my lattice lite plan

MTG: Xmas 2020 - 7c in a day (3 goes)

LTG: Spring 2021 - 7B in a session and Ned's Problem Sit Start (f7B+)

Cheers Matt.

Not a bad week. I feel like i'm ticking along OK. Had family stuff at the weekend so no climbing. 

M - Humphrey Head again. Last efforts on Humphrey Hymen Met a Sly Man (7b+). I just can't get that one move. Very sore skin. Decided that's it for me. One to come back for when i'm stronger.


W - Nothing

T - Humphrey head again. Did Shooting the Load (7a) first go after falling off the last move on the flash the other week. Felt nice and controlled all the way without flash overgripping. Did Firing Squad (7a+) putting the clips in. It gets 7b in the new guide but i'm not sure about that. Tried Trigger Finger Direct (6c+) which is another great little route. I fluffed the low crux as I got powered out. I then made a shambles of the rest. Had a good rest and another go and whilst i didn't make a shambles of the rest this time i still failed on the low crux. I think i was more tired than i realised.

F - Nothing

S - BFRT and stretch

S - BFRT and stretch

I'm waiting on starting a lattice lite on the 21st. This week will be lots of TLC and active rest ready to plough on with the training next week.

In reply to Steve Jones:

Also, I've a question about logging training. My local wall has just gone onto Griptonite and the app look great for logging all the routes/problems there. But there's also a Moon Board, a digital system board (can't remember the name/brand), and some beastmakers. Add to that my own training at home - I'd like to get some form of beastmaker or maybe lattice board type set up. Is there 'one app to rule them all' - somewhere were I can collate all my training (and outdoor climbs) into one space?



 biscuit 17 Sep 2020
In reply to Steve Jones:

Crimpd app is pretty good.

It won't record moon board problems but you can report all session types and open sessions for when they don't really fit anything else - just climbing for fun for example.

I use it with patients as it assigns a workload score according to what you've done. This seems to be based on similar data to what i used to use with patients anyway but is much more convenient. And you get pretty graphs. 

SO for either rehab or training it allows you to record everything you've done and keep a track of your workload.

And it's free - probably in exchange for data harvesting, but i'm happy with that exchange in this case.

 the sheep 17 Sep 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Cheers Matt,

Another low volume week, only 2 runs, 6 and 8km each. However things have picked up this week and look forward to posting a fuller report for week 705 

 Tom Green 17 Sep 2020
In reply to mattrm:

Hi all. Ta for the stats Matt.

A late one for me this week, so hopefully I can remember what went down...

Week 37:

M: Can't remember

T: Max Strength sesh. Some crack laps.

W: Hill Run. 50min Z1, 7.4km, 304m vert.

T: Rest.

F: Trad Climbing. Quick raid on Tremadog -highlight was The Fang (HVS 5a) -first pitch would previously have been a bit anti-style, so nice to find it pretty cruiser.

S: Hill Run. 101min Z1/2, 14.3km, 697m vert.

S: Max Hangs. Board Sesh -limit bouldering, felt hard.

Week 38:

2 runs -Get back to longer runs.

2 Core session

1 Strength session

2 Climbing sessions 

2 Prehab sessions

STGs (end Sept):

Max Hangs: 82kg total 

3 sets of my muscular endurance circuit.

3 sets of my core circuit. 

Cheshire Cat, Harmers Arete, Eliminator, Yates Layaway.

Curfew, Grid Iron, The Deep.

Black Wall Direct, Red Square, Digitron.

Cheshire Gritstone Trail (This is probably going to be October now)

 Tom Green 17 Sep 2020
In reply to Steve Jones:

I’d second biscuits suggestion of the Crimpd app. At first I thought it was a bit prescriptive (what if I want to do a slightly different session to the ‘template’ sessions?!) but it actually ticks most of the boxes and if I swap out some of the exercises for my own variations I still use the template timers and just put in the ‘notes box’ what I changed. 

Also, the template sessions for climbing based workouts are pretty useful. Great for fingerboarding or woody/moon board structured sessions. 

 mattrm 20 Sep 2020
In reply to mattrm:

STG - Y Fal 2h door to door

MTG - Y Fal 1h 45m door to door

LTG - Y Fal 1h 30m door to door

Weight - 15st 1lbs

M - S - Rest

S - Y Fal

Weight still bumping around 15st.  I'd really like to get it under 15, but it's just not possible at the moment.  2h 10m again on Y Fal, which was annoying.  I need to start doing normal running as well I think.  I kept up a great pace on the first climb, but that clobbered me for the second climb.  Periodic bursts of motivation still there, but I'm not comfortable with going to a climbing wall at the moment and it's just too much hassle to organise to go out climbing.  Been a bit of a stay at home this week for most things tbh. 


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