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Good afternoon, hope you are all enjoying the sun this weekend!
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=663550
AJM: good to hear you are back on the hang board and still getting stronger!
mattrm: stripping wallpaper has got to be good for those shoulder and back muscles!
hms: have you got specific goals for this trip (apart from hoping your husband enjoys the climbing) or just seeing how it goes? Also please note that pictures/videos of crag snakes win fitclub prizes…
AlanLittle: see following post (too much to fit into this comment)
Lancer: Nice to see you getting out onto the rock and feeling good
Just Tintin: Congratulations on the double grade jump!
annak: Excellent work on both the grade and changing your normal approach!
guy127917: head up
biscuit: Good to see an achievable goal- did you formulate a killer rehab routine? Hope the exams are going/went well!
hokkyo: Great work keeping the streak up- how many days are you unto now?
ad111: How did the half go?
the sheep: Sometimes life gets in the way, keep trucking
Ally Smith: Which is the campus rung on the BM2k? I agree with -10 being easier than 2x+55kg- something to do with not having your kidneys crushed by weight belts I think…
leeboy: Sounds like a fun weekend of big routes!
Dandan: The ballroom sounds great, I don’t think anything could make me want to move back to Coventry though… Look forward to seeing the new goals
alx: Sorry to hear it’s not going quite to plan, but sounds like you are on top of it. I think we need to see a video of this 4mm hang- there is a 4mm at The Castle which is literally a joke hold. I think it’s labelled the ‘Megos Warmup’
Richard Popp: Bad times- how has the shoulder healed over the week? Are you able to do any other training to keep yourself busy?
Jones: Nice long term goal! So whats the plan for the coming week (since you are posting on Monday…..)
ianstevens: 6x800s with a hangover sounds very much like going to hell…
Spengler: Excellent work with the STG’s last month. What would constitute success in your ‘more mileage’ goal- 10 pitches, 20, 50?
AWOL: TonyB, Tyler, TheFasting
AlanLittle:
17 sessions a month is quite a lot, though it depends massively on personal factors and the exact training you’re doing. You may not be feeling overtrained, but if you’re not improving in strength and you think you are creating the right stimulus (i.e. by moonboarding) then maybe you are not recovering enough between sessions to be in the “super compensation” phase (ie coming back stronger). I’d be interested to know if the whole 3-4 weeks on and then 1-2 to recover/de=load works for other people when specifically training strength- my belief was that kind of programming is more aimed at forcing adaptation of energy system type stuff (capillaries, mitochondria etc) which is much harder to come by than neurological adaptation or muscle fibre hypertrophy etc. (Your programme is probably fine as-is btw, not really trying to offer advice so much as find out more details- I'm interested in exactly what you're doing, how you're feeling, and whether it is working out over time to correlate with my own training experiences etc).
In “Practical Programming for Strength Training” Rippetoe talks about response to strength training and how deep into the hole you need to go before allowing recovery- it being a product of your training experience. Novices should need only do a session and wait 2 days for recovery, whereas elite athletes may need to go weeks/a whole season without fully recovering in order to force adaptation. He is talking about big muscle groups really as compared to fingers/forearms, and I’d be interested to know how that tallies up to the training that the pro’s do for strength- I’d be surprised if the Daniel Wood’s of the world do more than 4-6 week training blocs without full recovery? (they seem to be sending year round). Si- if you're reading this I imagine you may have thoughts?
Of course balancing strength training with other endurance and anaerobic stuff is going to be a real challenge.
Post edited at 17:28
4
In reply to guy127917:
Hi Guy, not really done any training, very painful, took a bit of advice and told to lay off. Have done more cycling than usual which has seemed fine-not that much but four consecutive days of cycling uphill continuously for 20-30 mins.
By luck I had a treatment booked on Thursday with a chiropractor who I rate, my experience of physios locally has been a bit underwhelming and have tried three different ones. I have a rather spectacular bruise down my bicep and she had seen the exact bruise a few weeks before in a competitive weightlifter, torn bicep tendon was the suggested diagnosis.
So been icing, keeping it mobile and beginning to do theraband stuff. Mobility is coming back quite quickly but the pain especially at night is still bad. The weightlifter was back training in three weeks and I am certainly hoping to get on some easier trad relatively quickly.
My plan is on hold but hopefully for weeks rather than any longer so will aim to keep posting. Not all bad.
Rich
Hi Guy, not really done any training, very painful, took a bit of advice and told to lay off. Have done more cycling than usual which has seemed fine-not that much but four consecutive days of cycling uphill continuously for 20-30 mins.
By luck I had a treatment booked on Thursday with a chiropractor who I rate, my experience of physios locally has been a bit underwhelming and have tried three different ones. I have a rather spectacular bruise down my bicep and she had seen the exact bruise a few weeks before in a competitive weightlifter, torn bicep tendon was the suggested diagnosis.
So been icing, keeping it mobile and beginning to do theraband stuff. Mobility is coming back quite quickly but the pain especially at night is still bad. The weightlifter was back training in three weeks and I am certainly hoping to get on some easier trad relatively quickly.
My plan is on hold but hopefully for weeks rather than any longer so will aim to keep posting. Not all bad.
Rich
Post edited at 18:33
In reply to guy127917:
This week I was meant to start my new programme but instead, for various reasons, I took almost the whole week off. I'm looking forward to getting back into training next week. I rested every day except Saturday and Sunday.
Saturday: I wrote this before Saturday and Sunday happened. Rest again!
Sunday: Basketball, so basically rest.
My goals this week are to start my weeks 7-12 training and complete all of my sessions. Just about to write up a to do list and a plan.
This week I was meant to start my new programme but instead, for various reasons, I took almost the whole week off. I'm looking forward to getting back into training next week. I rested every day except Saturday and Sunday.
Saturday: I wrote this before Saturday and Sunday happened. Rest again!
Sunday: Basketball, so basically rest.
My goals this week are to start my weeks 7-12 training and complete all of my sessions. Just about to write up a to do list and a plan.
In reply to guy127917:
Hastily edited video of some recent training fails, underestimated how much of a pain in the arse this would be! https://goo.gl/photos/J8L9hkDafw3RyebQA
This week went pretty well overall, definitely got my mojo back by the end of the week and am ready to go at week 9!
Monday: Max hangs and 5x 6 on 6 off boulders Aerocap. I've been finding using bouldering walls for Aerocap much harder than autobelays- it's harder to recover on easier sections as its generally more overhanging etc. I did these intervals on the deserted outside area at the castle as the sun was setting- a pretty idyllic evening if you have to be in London.
Tuesday: rest
Wednesday: 3x 8on 8off aerocap traverse intervals just to get moving, felt okay physically but haven't done much traversing recently and felt a bit rusty technically. Saw osteo about some ongoing niggles- she was pretty reassuring overall that I'm in generally good health and just need to make some small adjustments. Focus on hamstring stretching and working on inward rotation in the hips seem to be order of the next 6 months.
Thursday: TRX session
Friday: 5 mile run, 2x8 on/8off warmup, max hangs, 45 minute ancap session, 2 x 8 on/8off bouldering warmdown
Finger strength is still increasing rapidly- new mini breakthrough of getting the 25 degree sloper one armers to 1xBW. I've switched to one arm hangs for 4 fingers and am giving the 2 and 3 finger pockets a break for a bit as they were getting pretty painful (not convinced in a good way). The switch of lifts to assisted one armer normalised to body weight has been pretty consistent which is nice.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5p6PsvG1p1zNTFrTno4RDdpYkU/view?usp=shari...
Saturday: 4 mile run, TRX session, avoided getting too drunk at a wedding
Sunday: Rest- a bit of basketball and walking
Hastily edited video of some recent training fails, underestimated how much of a pain in the arse this would be! https://goo.gl/photos/J8L9hkDafw3RyebQA
This week went pretty well overall, definitely got my mojo back by the end of the week and am ready to go at week 9!
Monday: Max hangs and 5x 6 on 6 off boulders Aerocap. I've been finding using bouldering walls for Aerocap much harder than autobelays- it's harder to recover on easier sections as its generally more overhanging etc. I did these intervals on the deserted outside area at the castle as the sun was setting- a pretty idyllic evening if you have to be in London.
Tuesday: rest
Wednesday: 3x 8on 8off aerocap traverse intervals just to get moving, felt okay physically but haven't done much traversing recently and felt a bit rusty technically. Saw osteo about some ongoing niggles- she was pretty reassuring overall that I'm in generally good health and just need to make some small adjustments. Focus on hamstring stretching and working on inward rotation in the hips seem to be order of the next 6 months.
Thursday: TRX session
Friday: 5 mile run, 2x8 on/8off warmup, max hangs, 45 minute ancap session, 2 x 8 on/8off bouldering warmdown
Finger strength is still increasing rapidly- new mini breakthrough of getting the 25 degree sloper one armers to 1xBW. I've switched to one arm hangs for 4 fingers and am giving the 2 and 3 finger pockets a break for a bit as they were getting pretty painful (not convinced in a good way). The switch of lifts to assisted one armer normalised to body weight has been pretty consistent which is nice.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5p6PsvG1p1zNTFrTno4RDdpYkU/view?usp=shari...
Saturday: 4 mile run, TRX session, avoided getting too drunk at a wedding
Sunday: Rest- a bit of basketball and walking
Post edited at 21:48
In reply to guy127917:
Week 20
M - Gentle evening soloing at Windgather, disrupted by a camera crew shooting a Warburton’s bread commercial! 50-ish routes on-sighted soloed; mostly Mod-Severe with a few 5a/b moves thrown in.
T - Nowt; Hamburg.
W - Still hamburgering – minor walk around the dock area to sober up after all-you-can-eat buffet.
T - Also nowt – but at least the day ended in my own bed.
F - Whoppee – another round of potential staff cuts has been announced!
Easy deadhangs – feeling a bit stronger and less tweaky; 4x middle-2 @ BW–8.25kg, 4x RH only centre slot @BW-8.25kg.
4x20 deadlifts@54kg. 3x 8/6 narrow/wide pull-ups. 3x low-row/reverse T. 3x I. 3x 34kg 8rep OHP.
S - Travel & holibobs (firefly stung us €40 for unlimited mileage - who rents a car with 60km a day limited miles?!)S - holibobs - actually relaxing assist from walking several miles around Seville
Week 20
M - Gentle evening soloing at Windgather, disrupted by a camera crew shooting a Warburton’s bread commercial! 50-ish routes on-sighted soloed; mostly Mod-Severe with a few 5a/b moves thrown in.
T - Nowt; Hamburg.
W - Still hamburgering – minor walk around the dock area to sober up after all-you-can-eat buffet.
T - Also nowt – but at least the day ended in my own bed.
F - Whoppee – another round of potential staff cuts has been announced!
Easy deadhangs – feeling a bit stronger and less tweaky; 4x middle-2 @ BW–8.25kg, 4x RH only centre slot @BW-8.25kg.
4x20 deadlifts@54kg. 3x 8/6 narrow/wide pull-ups. 3x low-row/reverse T. 3x I. 3x 34kg 8rep OHP.
S - Travel & holibobs (firefly stung us €40 for unlimited mileage - who rents a car with 60km a day limited miles?!)S - holibobs - actually relaxing assist from walking several miles around Seville
Post edited at 21:56
In reply to guy127917:
Interesting question Guy. On the one hand, five weeks of steady gains seems from what I've read to be not an unreasonable length for a power phase. Otoh I didn't feel like I levelled out, but rather reached a peak and dropped off abruptly, so that might be an indication that I'd been overdoing it a bit in general. Have taken a couple of lighter weeks now, will see where it goes from here.
I do think I need to do *something* to kick my bouldering up a level, because at the moment I'm working routes with cruxes in the 6B to 6C range with a maximum bouldering level ever of 6C+, so I really don't have much headroom.
STG: ?
MTG (2017): Redpoint a 7b that isn't a 6-move boulder problem.
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
M: Boulderwelt. Quick late evening session working on the 7a circuit project as featured in last week's movie. Wasn't recovered from projecting on Saturday & didn't get beyond last week's furthest point, although I did at least reach it once. I can do the move I'm failing on fairly consistently in isolation, but not when I'm tired. Time for siege tactics - gradually longer links into & through it.
Rounded off with a few sets of kettlebell shoulder stuff - presses, flies, rows.
T:
W: Morning before work: a few sets of max hangs. Experimenting with finding a way to fit regular finger strength work into my schedule without compromising the more important movement-related stuff.
Evening: Wall,Thalkirchen. 10 routes 5c to 6b+. Seemed not to be too crippled by the morning fingerboarding.
T, F, S: visiting family in the UK. No training or climbing.
S: Evening max hangs on return home
Interesting question Guy. On the one hand, five weeks of steady gains seems from what I've read to be not an unreasonable length for a power phase. Otoh I didn't feel like I levelled out, but rather reached a peak and dropped off abruptly, so that might be an indication that I'd been overdoing it a bit in general. Have taken a couple of lighter weeks now, will see where it goes from here.
I do think I need to do *something* to kick my bouldering up a level, because at the moment I'm working routes with cruxes in the 6B to 6C range with a maximum bouldering level ever of 6C+, so I really don't have much headroom.
STG: ?
MTG (2017): Redpoint a 7b that isn't a 6-move boulder problem.
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
M: Boulderwelt. Quick late evening session working on the 7a circuit project as featured in last week's movie. Wasn't recovered from projecting on Saturday & didn't get beyond last week's furthest point, although I did at least reach it once. I can do the move I'm failing on fairly consistently in isolation, but not when I'm tired. Time for siege tactics - gradually longer links into & through it.
Rounded off with a few sets of kettlebell shoulder stuff - presses, flies, rows.
T:
W: Morning before work: a few sets of max hangs. Experimenting with finding a way to fit regular finger strength work into my schedule without compromising the more important movement-related stuff.
Evening: Wall,Thalkirchen. 10 routes 5c to 6b+. Seemed not to be too crippled by the morning fingerboarding.
T, F, S: visiting family in the UK. No training or climbing.
S: Evening max hangs on return home
In reply to guy127917:
The run went well! Came in at 2.03.01 with very sore knees! I'm really happy with how it went - I was on pace for a 1.58 up to 18km and then suddenly my legs got tired and my pace dropped.
In the end the training went pretty poorly - in the seven weeks before running I had a grand total of 4 training runs - 3* 10k and a pathetic attempt at a tempo.
M: rest
T: indoor bouldering
W: rest
T: Indoor bouldering
F: Rest
S: Half marathon
S: Rest
Goals:
So far I have completed - climb Font 7b (twice) & run the 1/2 marathon.
New goals (more ambitious goals will come once the dissertation is finished):
Get outside climbing at least twice a week (unless the weather is crap)
Finish my dissertation
The run went well! Came in at 2.03.01 with very sore knees! I'm really happy with how it went - I was on pace for a 1.58 up to 18km and then suddenly my legs got tired and my pace dropped.
In the end the training went pretty poorly - in the seven weeks before running I had a grand total of 4 training runs - 3* 10k and a pathetic attempt at a tempo.
M: rest
T: indoor bouldering
W: rest
T: Indoor bouldering
F: Rest
S: Half marathon
S: Rest
Goals:
So far I have completed - climb Font 7b (twice) & run the 1/2 marathon.
New goals (more ambitious goals will come once the dissertation is finished):
Get outside climbing at least twice a week (unless the weather is crap)
Finish my dissertation
Post edited at 07:38
2
In reply to Ally Smith:
This was news to me when I picked up my latest firefly rental too, I stuck with it and went over by about 50km, got charged a silly amount extra but at least it was less than €40, so i'll call it a win.
I booked a Ryanair flight this weekend, added hold luggage and declined all the other costly add-ons to get a total cost, then at the last moment before paying, an £11 'payment charge' appears from nowhere, which remained regardless of the payment method! I thought they weren't allowed to pull that rubbish any more?
These 'bargain' options are becoming less and less bargainous...
> Travel & holibobs (firefly stung us €40 for unlimited mileage - who rents a car with 60km a day limited miles?!)
This was news to me when I picked up my latest firefly rental too, I stuck with it and went over by about 50km, got charged a silly amount extra but at least it was less than €40, so i'll call it a win.
I booked a Ryanair flight this weekend, added hold luggage and declined all the other costly add-ons to get a total cost, then at the last moment before paying, an £11 'payment charge' appears from nowhere, which remained regardless of the payment method! I thought they weren't allowed to pull that rubbish any more?
These 'bargain' options are becoming less and less bargainous...
1
In reply to guy127917:
Hello!
Thanks, yesterday was day 54 This week has been a struggle, I got up funny, after sitting at work for a long time and my back is killing me. Quite painful to just stand up straight. Oddly, running actually seems to help it. At least it feels a lot freer after a few km.
m - 4k run, 11.5k cycling
t - 7k run
w - 2k warm up run, 5k race 22:54
t - 5k run
f - 2.5k run
s - 5.5 k run
s - 5k run
Very pleased with the 22:54 5k. It's my fastest this year and only 11 secs off my P.B. If it wasn't for my bad back I'd be thinking of going all out for a P.B. at the final John Carr Series race on Wednesday.
> Good afternoon, hope you are all enjoying the sun this weekend!
Hello!
> hokkyo: Great work keeping the streak up- how many days are you unto now?
Thanks, yesterday was day 54 This week has been a struggle, I got up funny, after sitting at work for a long time and my back is killing me. Quite painful to just stand up straight. Oddly, running actually seems to help it. At least it feels a lot freer after a few km.
m - 4k run, 11.5k cycling
t - 7k run
w - 2k warm up run, 5k race 22:54
t - 5k run
f - 2.5k run
s - 5.5 k run
s - 5k run
Very pleased with the 22:54 5k. It's my fastest this year and only 11 secs off my P.B. If it wasn't for my bad back I'd be thinking of going all out for a P.B. at the final John Carr Series race on Wednesday.
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers guy.
Got out on Tuesday, wonderful conditions. Got spanked. In a fit of optimism I thought I'd try Hombre Solaire (7c) which doesn't get done much. Baffled by the start traverse, and the blank section below the roof felt implausible especially after the lower section given the lack of rests. I also skinned my fingers a bit (load of little flappers) when a chert foothold snapped.
I helped my parents in the garden a little bit this weekend which given the awkward cutting angles has left me with aching sides (I think I was using these to cut a stump out given the constricted work area rather than proper muscles in my back)
Cheers guy.
Got out on Tuesday, wonderful conditions. Got spanked. In a fit of optimism I thought I'd try Hombre Solaire (7c) which doesn't get done much. Baffled by the start traverse, and the blank section below the roof felt implausible especially after the lower section given the lack of rests. I also skinned my fingers a bit (load of little flappers) when a chert foothold snapped.
I helped my parents in the garden a little bit this weekend which given the awkward cutting angles has left me with aching sides (I think I was using these to cut a stump out given the constricted work area rather than proper muscles in my back)
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy
Sort of did my TFTNA test again this week and going off memory I have defiantly improved on the uphill walking. Planned on doing the push ups etc on Friday but had a terrible hangover and really struggled all day then did not get the time over the weekend
My 300 meters accent (0.7 mile) with 20% body weight time was 27min
M - Yoga
T - 10km run
W - AM - 5km, run
PM climbed at Woodcroft Quarry done a 5+, 6a and 2 6b's
T - 600 meter accent with 15kg pack
F - Enforced rest from hangover
S - 600 meter accent with 15kg pack
S - Lazy day went to the pictures and out for a meal and ate way too much
Happy training
Lee
Thanks Guy
Sort of did my TFTNA test again this week and going off memory I have defiantly improved on the uphill walking. Planned on doing the push ups etc on Friday but had a terrible hangover and really struggled all day then did not get the time over the weekend
My 300 meters accent (0.7 mile) with 20% body weight time was 27min
M - Yoga
T - 10km run
W - AM - 5km, run
PM climbed at Woodcroft Quarry done a 5+, 6a and 2 6b's
T - 600 meter accent with 15kg pack
F - Enforced rest from hangover
S - 600 meter accent with 15kg pack
S - Lazy day went to the pictures and out for a meal and ate way too much
Happy training
Lee
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy.
Absolutely zip to report this week.
I've got my mobilisation/core workout sorted but find when i'm not climbing I don't do it. It gets put down the list of things to do and by the time it's the evening i'm too tired. But I know it'll come back when I start climbing again.
That should be possibly Wednesday. Got my last exam that morning so hope to fit a boulder in before work. Thurs eve i'm going to The Depot to start the Summer League. I'm coaching as well so I won't push it just pick off the easy ones with the kids.
I was looking at climbing Fri, Sat and Sun but the weather and the fact i'm being dragged out for an end of year drink on Friday with a bunch of youngsters could interfere with that.
If the weather is shocking i'll make an effort to get to some walls I've not been to before, or for a while, and mix it up a bit.
This SHOULD be the last week I report nothing much for the next 4 months. I'm really resisting writing goals down but there are a few bouncing around my head.
Cheers Guy.
Absolutely zip to report this week.
I've got my mobilisation/core workout sorted but find when i'm not climbing I don't do it. It gets put down the list of things to do and by the time it's the evening i'm too tired. But I know it'll come back when I start climbing again.
That should be possibly Wednesday. Got my last exam that morning so hope to fit a boulder in before work. Thurs eve i'm going to The Depot to start the Summer League. I'm coaching as well so I won't push it just pick off the easy ones with the kids.
I was looking at climbing Fri, Sat and Sun but the weather and the fact i'm being dragged out for an end of year drink on Friday with a bunch of youngsters could interfere with that.
If the weather is shocking i'll make an effort to get to some walls I've not been to before, or for a while, and mix it up a bit.
This SHOULD be the last week I report nothing much for the next 4 months. I'm really resisting writing goals down but there are a few bouncing around my head.
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. Another okay week for training but did some major planning failings yesterday so failed to get out on rock and ended up in the gym, despite it being a lovely day.
M - bar and rings
T - conditioning
W - rest
T - Continuity. Core
F - 1/2
S - trad and bouldering Burbage South. Highlight was onsight of Zeus (E2 5b) which is the kind of route I wouldn't have tried if I'd read everyone's UKC comments first, but just walked up to it and liked the look of it. Pumpy as hell though. Unremitting back to back 5b moves with a terrible top out.
S - EPIC FAIL (but not the kind I could film, sorry). Went back to Burbage South in the morning as it looked bright in Matlock. Got rained on so headed back to sunny Matlock. Went to Duke's Quarry late afternoon on way back to Oxford but hadn't read guidebook properly so rope was too short. Had a strop and did the comp routes at Climbing Unit as session instead. Still stoppy especially with a whole week of rain forecast.
Goals check-in:
STG: (end of May)
• Keep knocking out crack/slab mileage in Peak - going well
• Classic routes in Squamish/ ski touring depending on weather
MTG: (end of 2017)
• Do more routes than any other year (Best was 2014: 112 trad, 72 sport) – so far 2017: 37 trad, 16 sport.
• Sport: 7a mileage including unfinished business (WFD, Buf). RP a 7b.
• Trad: E mileage. Lead E3/4 - some E1s/E2s on grit + led first E3
• Lose some weight. Maybe 3kg would be a start?
• Fundas 3 (check), PTforClimbing2 courses, CWLA, DC assessments. Renew First Aid.
• Ticklist: Skeleton Ridge (HVS 4c) and some other stuff. The Scottish sea stacks will have to wait until next year as I haven't enough annual leave left!
Thanks Guy. Another okay week for training but did some major planning failings yesterday so failed to get out on rock and ended up in the gym, despite it being a lovely day.
M - bar and rings
T - conditioning
W - rest
T - Continuity. Core
F - 1/2
S - trad and bouldering Burbage South. Highlight was onsight of Zeus (E2 5b) which is the kind of route I wouldn't have tried if I'd read everyone's UKC comments first, but just walked up to it and liked the look of it. Pumpy as hell though. Unremitting back to back 5b moves with a terrible top out.
S - EPIC FAIL (but not the kind I could film, sorry). Went back to Burbage South in the morning as it looked bright in Matlock. Got rained on so headed back to sunny Matlock. Went to Duke's Quarry late afternoon on way back to Oxford but hadn't read guidebook properly so rope was too short. Had a strop and did the comp routes at Climbing Unit as session instead. Still stoppy especially with a whole week of rain forecast.
Goals check-in:
STG: (end of May)
• Keep knocking out crack/slab mileage in Peak - going well
• Classic routes in Squamish/ ski touring depending on weather
MTG: (end of 2017)
• Do more routes than any other year (Best was 2014: 112 trad, 72 sport) – so far 2017: 37 trad, 16 sport.
• Sport: 7a mileage including unfinished business (WFD, Buf). RP a 7b.
• Trad: E mileage. Lead E3/4 - some E1s/E2s on grit + led first E3
• Lose some weight. Maybe 3kg would be a start?
• Fundas 3 (check), PTforClimbing2 courses, CWLA, DC assessments. Renew First Aid.
• Ticklist: Skeleton Ridge (HVS 4c) and some other stuff. The Scottish sea stacks will have to wait until next year as I haven't enough annual leave left!
1
In reply to guy127917:
So let's see, my last update was after freaking out on Den brune flekken (n4+) and not getting past the 2nd bolt on a 6 bolt route, due to fear of falling.
Training since then:
- One of my "mountaineering cardio" trips where I try to find a nice long hike and do it with a slightly heavy pack to get fitter. Went to Vassfjellet (711 meters asl IIRC), and did two laps up and down a road that goes to the top. About 1000 meters of elevation gain over 23 km in 6.5 hours with a 15 kg pack (keeping it to 55% to 75% max HR makes me go slow).
- Finally had my trad course this week. Top-roped Gunneng (n4+) and then did Via Dolorosa (n4) as my very first full on multipitch trad route, lead the first pitch.
The course weekend started with me rappelling on day 2 without getting worried at all (day 1 was just theory). Then later I did a route on top rope and placing gear to practice, and got pretty close to freaking out but managed to sort of not go completely over the edge into full blown panic. No idea why I was stone calm for the rappel and then being so worried on top rope.
Next day it was time to lead without a pack up. I got the first pitch, a route that was graded n4 but instructor said it was more like n4+, which is the most I've ever climbed outside. A slab route. It was also raining. But somehow I just put the gear on my harness, tied in, and off I went. It was hard and I almost slid off once because there wasn't any friction, but I jammed and placed gear all the way up to the belay without any help.
I was worried, but too busy placing gear to really panic... So that was something I guess.
The other instructor said he'd nudge the route difficulty a grade higher due to doing it in a decent amount of rain. So I've got that going for me. Which is nice.
Which means I also accomplished my MTG of doing all the climbing courses before this rock climbing season really kicks off. Top-rope course in October, lead climbing course in November, belay certification in December, ice climbing intro course in January, full ice climbing course in March, and now trad climbing course in May. I didn't really think I could pull off the funds to do all that as a student, but through a lot of creative financing I actually did. Oddly satisfied with that.
So let's see, my last update was after freaking out on Den brune flekken (n4+) and not getting past the 2nd bolt on a 6 bolt route, due to fear of falling.
Training since then:
- One of my "mountaineering cardio" trips where I try to find a nice long hike and do it with a slightly heavy pack to get fitter. Went to Vassfjellet (711 meters asl IIRC), and did two laps up and down a road that goes to the top. About 1000 meters of elevation gain over 23 km in 6.5 hours with a 15 kg pack (keeping it to 55% to 75% max HR makes me go slow).
- Finally had my trad course this week. Top-roped Gunneng (n4+) and then did Via Dolorosa (n4) as my very first full on multipitch trad route, lead the first pitch.
The course weekend started with me rappelling on day 2 without getting worried at all (day 1 was just theory). Then later I did a route on top rope and placing gear to practice, and got pretty close to freaking out but managed to sort of not go completely over the edge into full blown panic. No idea why I was stone calm for the rappel and then being so worried on top rope.
Next day it was time to lead without a pack up. I got the first pitch, a route that was graded n4 but instructor said it was more like n4+, which is the most I've ever climbed outside. A slab route. It was also raining. But somehow I just put the gear on my harness, tied in, and off I went. It was hard and I almost slid off once because there wasn't any friction, but I jammed and placed gear all the way up to the belay without any help.
I was worried, but too busy placing gear to really panic... So that was something I guess.
The other instructor said he'd nudge the route difficulty a grade higher due to doing it in a decent amount of rain. So I've got that going for me. Which is nice.
Which means I also accomplished my MTG of doing all the climbing courses before this rock climbing season really kicks off. Top-rope course in October, lead climbing course in November, belay certification in December, ice climbing intro course in January, full ice climbing course in March, and now trad climbing course in May. I didn't really think I could pull off the funds to do all that as a student, but through a lot of creative financing I actually did. Oddly satisfied with that.
Post edited at 21:01
1
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy, yeah if I didn't work nearby then I'm not sure there is much that could convince me to go to Coventry either...
A decent enough week although I was lacking in motivation a bit at the weekend which is very unlike me, hopefully just a blip. The steady level of training at the moment is working wonders on my finger, it's definitely on the mend.
M: Indoor boulder; Progressive Ancap; This session is supposed to be done on the same problems every session with decreased rests/added moves each time but due to logistics I've so far done it at 3 different walls! Also had a bit of a session on the woody board at The Ballroom, it's a lot of fun and very easy to make problems that don't involve crimps for the right hand, which is keeping my finger happy.
T: Nowt
W: Indoor boulder; 1 on 2 off. Supposed to be done on rope but I had partner issues again so I linked boulders again, I think I hit a good level of difficulty.
T: Nowt
F: Core, bar and rings conditioning. Nice to finally have a wide pull up bar rigged up (I fitted gym rings to the ridge beam of my workshop so they have a nice long drop, easy to thread a barbell through for pull ups)
S: Portland; Went for another go on Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c) but both it and Mrs Dandan's project to the right had seepage low down, not such a problem on her route but right on the crux of mine. After a loose chossy warmup, we decided to hike back out and cross the island to Cheyne weares where Mrs D had some other unfinished business. I didn't climb anything hard in the end, felt very un-motivated which is especially unusual seeing as I was actually at the crag.
S: DIY club; sorting out log stores mostly. I did manage to squeeze in a core session but skipped a max strength conditioning session, again finding it hard to rustle up the motivation when there was so much work to do around the house.
Super low volume rest week coming up and I'm going to try to avoid doing any unstructured climbing sessions on top, I probably could do with the proper rest and it might help to perk up my enthusiasm a bit. Also, the following week is intense, 9 sessions or so, I need to be prepared for that!
New Goals:
STG:
* Stretch hamstrings every session (I've been slack again) -
* Don't do any unstructured climbing sessions this week -
* Investigate putting together a full stretching session via youtube and google
MTG: (next few months)
* Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Finger improving
* Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c)
* Illusions (7c+)
* Detonator (7c+)
* Prison Sex (7c+)
* Nightmare Scenario (7c)
* The Breathing Method (8a)
LTG: (This Year)
* 3 Holidays - 2 done and 2 more booked!
* Niña Mala (8b) in October
* tick 3 x 8a - 2/3
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook) - 1/10
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps) - +54kg so far
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last
BHAG:
* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1 of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year
> Dandan: The ballroom sounds great, I don’t think anything could make me want to move back to Coventry though… Look forward to seeing the new goals
Cheers Guy, yeah if I didn't work nearby then I'm not sure there is much that could convince me to go to Coventry either...
A decent enough week although I was lacking in motivation a bit at the weekend which is very unlike me, hopefully just a blip. The steady level of training at the moment is working wonders on my finger, it's definitely on the mend.
M: Indoor boulder; Progressive Ancap; This session is supposed to be done on the same problems every session with decreased rests/added moves each time but due to logistics I've so far done it at 3 different walls! Also had a bit of a session on the woody board at The Ballroom, it's a lot of fun and very easy to make problems that don't involve crimps for the right hand, which is keeping my finger happy.
T: Nowt
W: Indoor boulder; 1 on 2 off. Supposed to be done on rope but I had partner issues again so I linked boulders again, I think I hit a good level of difficulty.
T: Nowt
F: Core, bar and rings conditioning. Nice to finally have a wide pull up bar rigged up (I fitted gym rings to the ridge beam of my workshop so they have a nice long drop, easy to thread a barbell through for pull ups)
S: Portland; Went for another go on Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c) but both it and Mrs Dandan's project to the right had seepage low down, not such a problem on her route but right on the crux of mine. After a loose chossy warmup, we decided to hike back out and cross the island to Cheyne weares where Mrs D had some other unfinished business. I didn't climb anything hard in the end, felt very un-motivated which is especially unusual seeing as I was actually at the crag.
S: DIY club; sorting out log stores mostly. I did manage to squeeze in a core session but skipped a max strength conditioning session, again finding it hard to rustle up the motivation when there was so much work to do around the house.
Super low volume rest week coming up and I'm going to try to avoid doing any unstructured climbing sessions on top, I probably could do with the proper rest and it might help to perk up my enthusiasm a bit. Also, the following week is intense, 9 sessions or so, I need to be prepared for that!
New Goals:
STG:
* Stretch hamstrings every session (I've been slack again) -
* Don't do any unstructured climbing sessions this week -
* Investigate putting together a full stretching session via youtube and google
MTG: (next few months)
* Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Finger improving
* Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c)
* Illusions (7c+)
* Detonator (7c+)
* Prison Sex (7c+)
* Nightmare Scenario (7c)
* The Breathing Method (8a)
LTG: (This Year)
* 3 Holidays - 2 done and 2 more booked!
* Niña Mala (8b) in October
* tick 3 x 8a - 2/3
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook) - 1/10
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps) - +54kg so far
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last
BHAG:
* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1 of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year
Post edited at 07:44
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks for the stats Guy. You're right, the 800s were awful - but I should note it was only a second-day hangover so wasn't too bad, but I was far from full form. Hence why I cut the session short.
On to last week: training plan slipped a little as I did a lot of cycling thanks to the Giro.
Mon:
Yoga 30 mins
Continuous traverse, 30 mins (still a bit tired from the weekend)
Tues:
Yoga 25 mins
Bike 44.6km, 632m
Weds:
Yoga 20 mins
Run (easy) 8.2km, 213m
Thurs:
Snowdon Pyg/Miners (ML work) 12.3km, 700m
Run (long, Glyders) 18.8km, 1496m - tired by the end
Fri:
Yoga 30 min
Rest
Sat:
Recovery bike being a tourist on a hire bike - 22.5km, 263m
Sun:
Bike (long) 106.4km, 1526m. Finally ticked off one of the climbs in the cycling climbs of Wales book.
Aims for this week are to go easy on the cardio Mon-Thurs, and do some proper climbing training as this has slipped a bit of late. Rest day Friday, Cadair race Saturday and some more climbing Sunday (with the weather dictating the venue, but hopefully actual rock).
Weight down to a more respectable 70.2kg. Around 1kg over my "performance" weight of last season, but I've put on a load of extra muscle and feel slender, strong and fast so happy with this. Aim is to maintain this until the Glencoe Skyline in September.
Goals remain unbothered at the moment, that should change this week.
STG (end of May):
Johnny's Wall (7A) at the Cromlech - happy to let this one roll over as I haven't had time to get to it
Get all moves on Beltane (7b+) dialed and into the beta notes on my phone
Top 20 at Cadair Race
Non training related but could have an impact - find a job (making progress here)
MTG (end of July):
Another E5/7a/+ in the quarries (possibly 1000 Tons of Chicken Shit (E5 6a), Waves of Inspiration (E5 6a) or Never Never Land (E5 6a))
Get over limestone hate and do a ~6c at the Orme
Have a big alpine prep day out and climb 1000m of VS with a few E1 pitches thrown in
LTG (end of Sept):
Walker Spur in August (conditions dependent...)
RP Beltane (7b+) in Bus Stop Quarry
Top 100 and under 11 hours in the Glencoe Skyline (102nd and 11:20 last year)
ADVICE REQUESTED/DISCUSSION: Having been doing a lot of labwork recently, I've been catching up on podcasts I download and never listen too. Caught up on TrainingBeta, and the episode on supplements caught my attention - a lot of hype was given to beta-alanine for medium duration efforts preventing lactate build up. Anyone used it for climbing or running and have any experience to share?
Thanks for the stats Guy. You're right, the 800s were awful - but I should note it was only a second-day hangover so wasn't too bad, but I was far from full form. Hence why I cut the session short.
On to last week: training plan slipped a little as I did a lot of cycling thanks to the Giro.
Mon:
Yoga 30 mins
Continuous traverse, 30 mins (still a bit tired from the weekend)
Tues:
Yoga 25 mins
Bike 44.6km, 632m
Weds:
Yoga 20 mins
Run (easy) 8.2km, 213m
Thurs:
Snowdon Pyg/Miners (ML work) 12.3km, 700m
Run (long, Glyders) 18.8km, 1496m - tired by the end
Fri:
Yoga 30 min
Rest
Sat:
Recovery bike being a tourist on a hire bike - 22.5km, 263m
Sun:
Bike (long) 106.4km, 1526m. Finally ticked off one of the climbs in the cycling climbs of Wales book.
Aims for this week are to go easy on the cardio Mon-Thurs, and do some proper climbing training as this has slipped a bit of late. Rest day Friday, Cadair race Saturday and some more climbing Sunday (with the weather dictating the venue, but hopefully actual rock).
Weight down to a more respectable 70.2kg. Around 1kg over my "performance" weight of last season, but I've put on a load of extra muscle and feel slender, strong and fast so happy with this. Aim is to maintain this until the Glencoe Skyline in September.
Goals remain unbothered at the moment, that should change this week.
STG (end of May):
Johnny's Wall (7A) at the Cromlech - happy to let this one roll over as I haven't had time to get to it
Get all moves on Beltane (7b+) dialed and into the beta notes on my phone
Top 20 at Cadair Race
Non training related but could have an impact - find a job (making progress here)
MTG (end of July):
Another E5/7a/+ in the quarries (possibly 1000 Tons of Chicken Shit (E5 6a), Waves of Inspiration (E5 6a) or Never Never Land (E5 6a))
Get over limestone hate and do a ~6c at the Orme
Have a big alpine prep day out and climb 1000m of VS with a few E1 pitches thrown in
LTG (end of Sept):
Walker Spur in August (conditions dependent...)
RP Beltane (7b+) in Bus Stop Quarry
Top 100 and under 11 hours in the Glencoe Skyline (102nd and 11:20 last year)
ADVICE REQUESTED/DISCUSSION: Having been doing a lot of labwork recently, I've been catching up on podcasts I download and never listen too. Caught up on TrainingBeta, and the episode on supplements caught my attention - a lot of hype was given to beta-alanine for medium duration efforts preventing lactate build up. Anyone used it for climbing or running and have any experience to share?
1
In reply to ianstevens:
I have a pot of beta-alanine tabs in my desk- tried taking them in the morning and pre-workout for 2-3 weeks, didnt really feel any improvement. I didn't do any sort of benchmarking/measuring though. They are cheap enough form myprotein so worth a shot.
I have a pot of beta-alanine tabs in my desk- tried taking them in the morning and pre-workout for 2-3 weeks, didnt really feel any improvement. I didn't do any sort of benchmarking/measuring though. They are cheap enough form myprotein so worth a shot.
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers, more of an active week this last week gone thankfully, with new family members to boot too. Week went as follows;
Monday, 1km lunchtime swim
Tuesday, 1km lunchtime swim and 5.5 km evening run, cracking pace (for me) of 4.54 per km so giving a first sub 25 minute 5k which nails another goal.
Wednesday, 1km lunchtime swim, 31km cycle and an evening pool diving session trying out a dry suit. Interesting and very hot!
Thursday, 16km morning ride and 1km lunchtime swim
Friday, 1km morning swim then off to pick up a pair of kittens who have added greatly to the madness of our household
Saturday, rest (and playing with kittens
Sunday, gentle 7.3km run round the local tracks
> the sheep: Sometimes life gets in the way, keep trucking
Cheers, more of an active week this last week gone thankfully, with new family members to boot too. Week went as follows;
Monday, 1km lunchtime swim
Tuesday, 1km lunchtime swim and 5.5 km evening run, cracking pace (for me) of 4.54 per km so giving a first sub 25 minute 5k which nails another goal.
Wednesday, 1km lunchtime swim, 31km cycle and an evening pool diving session trying out a dry suit. Interesting and very hot!
Thursday, 16km morning ride and 1km lunchtime swim
Friday, 1km morning swim then off to pick up a pair of kittens who have added greatly to the madness of our household
Saturday, rest (and playing with kittens
Sunday, gentle 7.3km run round the local tracks
In reply to guy127917:
Fair enough - I thought they needed quite a long(ish) loading period of about 4 weeks @6g/day which I *think* is four of the capsules. I'll give it a go and report back - like you say, inexpensive at £10/300g on the PhD Nutrition website.
Fair enough - I thought they needed quite a long(ish) loading period of about 4 weeks @6g/day which I *think* is four of the capsules. I'll give it a go and report back - like you say, inexpensive at £10/300g on the PhD Nutrition website.
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. I guess just 4 or 5 days of E1/2s would be a good amount of mileage in my mind. Only got one trad day in these week, but some good sports days too.
M - Clogwyn y Grochan. A few repeats up to E2.
Evening: 5 x 5s - 5on/5off - 5 reps - 5 sets - 5 mins between sets - 25mm Front 3 open +6kg
T - Lunch: 4 x 15 push ups
Evening: 30 min yoga stretching
W - Lunch: 4 x 5 Tricep Dips
Evening: Bus Stop for another play on Beltane. Thought I might as well jump on lead and see how far I got. Came off the hard move at the end of the low traverse twice. Tempted to set goal of making it through to the bolt after that, before the upper two crux sections, although realistically it’s probably a little too hard for me at the moment.
T - Lunch: 4 x 5 leg raises.
Evening: 10 mins of planche progressions - 10 mins of front lever progressions - 10 mins raised reverse plank
5 x 5s - 22mm Half Crimp - +0kg - Failed on the last hold of the last set. So stick at 0kg for now.
F - Dinbren - 6b a couple of times to warm up. Then got on Hot Stuff 7a. Bolt to bolt. Steep bouldery start, not my strong point, but once I’d figured out where to put my feet it was fine. One more dogged go just trying to remember the sequences. It was really windy, and I was struggling to stay warm between attempts, so knocked it on the head, to come back when I’ll actually enjoy it.
S - Pen Trwyn - 6a, 6b, 6b+ O/S to warm up. Then it rained. Waited it out, then had an O/S crack at Testament 6c/6c+ depending on the guide. Fell off the last moves towards the chains, it’s a heartbreaker of a finish, and I got tempted by what looked like a chalky jug out left, but lead me to nowhere. Should have stayed right, but nevermind, happy with that effort.
Thanks Guy. I guess just 4 or 5 days of E1/2s would be a good amount of mileage in my mind. Only got one trad day in these week, but some good sports days too.
M - Clogwyn y Grochan. A few repeats up to E2.
Evening: 5 x 5s - 5on/5off - 5 reps - 5 sets - 5 mins between sets - 25mm Front 3 open +6kg
T - Lunch: 4 x 15 push ups
Evening: 30 min yoga stretching
W - Lunch: 4 x 5 Tricep Dips
Evening: Bus Stop for another play on Beltane. Thought I might as well jump on lead and see how far I got. Came off the hard move at the end of the low traverse twice. Tempted to set goal of making it through to the bolt after that, before the upper two crux sections, although realistically it’s probably a little too hard for me at the moment.
T - Lunch: 4 x 5 leg raises.
Evening: 10 mins of planche progressions - 10 mins of front lever progressions - 10 mins raised reverse plank
5 x 5s - 22mm Half Crimp - +0kg - Failed on the last hold of the last set. So stick at 0kg for now.
F - Dinbren - 6b a couple of times to warm up. Then got on Hot Stuff 7a. Bolt to bolt. Steep bouldery start, not my strong point, but once I’d figured out where to put my feet it was fine. One more dogged go just trying to remember the sequences. It was really windy, and I was struggling to stay warm between attempts, so knocked it on the head, to come back when I’ll actually enjoy it.
S - Pen Trwyn - 6a, 6b, 6b+ O/S to warm up. Then it rained. Waited it out, then had an O/S crack at Testament 6c/6c+ depending on the guide. Fell off the last moves towards the chains, it’s a heartbreaker of a finish, and I got tempted by what looked like a chalky jug out left, but lead me to nowhere. Should have stayed right, but nevermind, happy with that effort.
In reply to guy127917:
Ha I will post something up when I get back. Packing the last of my stuff getting ready to fly out tomorrow, should be walking around Rocklands by Monday, climbing by Tuesday!
Ha I will post something up when I get back. Packing the last of my stuff getting ready to fly out tomorrow, should be walking around Rocklands by Monday, climbing by Tuesday!
In reply to ianstevens:
Hmmm maybe I should have stuck with it a bit longer. Thing is over 4 weeks, assuming you are also training ancap reasonably, its very hard to isolate the effect to the supplement (unless its mindblowing, which I doubt).
Hmmm maybe I should have stuck with it a bit longer. Thing is over 4 weeks, assuming you are also training ancap reasonably, its very hard to isolate the effect to the supplement (unless its mindblowing, which I doubt).
In reply to guy127917:
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
Weight - 13st 9lbs
M - S - Rest
On holiday, a night in a hotel in Wales, the Corran. Very nice place. Otherwise been pottering around the house and doing lots of DIY.
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
Weight - 13st 9lbs
M - S - Rest
On holiday, a night in a hotel in Wales, the Corran. Very nice place. Otherwise been pottering around the house and doing lots of DIY.
In reply to guy127917:
Agreed, it's very hard to tell with a lot of supplements. Usually, in my experience anyway, people tend to use them and train a bit harder at the same time., compounding the issue and they would be very hard to test double blind. I presume if it was mind-blowing everyone would be on it!
Agreed, it's very hard to tell with a lot of supplements. Usually, in my experience anyway, people tend to use them and train a bit harder at the same time., compounding the issue and they would be very hard to test double blind. I presume if it was mind-blowing everyone would be on it!
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