UKC

Ok this might sound a stupid question but what training can you do on a hangboard ? I've never used one before!

I used to climb about E2/3.   sport 6c /7a but due to work and kids have pretty much not climbed for the past 8 years. I still don't have a lot of free time but would like something in the house to start training on again as hopefully in the next 12-18 months I will start getting more free time to get out climbing. 

From the small amount of trad I've done outside this summer, footwork is fine, and could lead hvs but was getting pumped a lot quicker than I used to obviously. I'm just wanting something that I can use to get some strength and stamina back, will hanging on a board and doing some pull-ups on it help? The local wall isn't really an option at the moment as the free time I get is not long enough to get down there for a decent session.

Other option is building a free standing wall at home

Thanks

Sure a hangboard can totally help with strength and stamina as long as you use it right! 

You'll want to do something more structured than some hangs and a few pull ups, but there are lots of apps, and advice online for building both strength and stamina using a hangboard.  Better still, speak to a pro coach and get a personalised training plan.

Apps wise I've got the beastmaker, hangboard guru, Grippy, Crimpd but there are loads out there, epecially if you're on android

The thing you will probably find most beneficial in trad is the 7:3 repeater. Basically, one minute of 7 seconds on, 3 seconds off then rest for about 2 to three minutes. 6 or more sets. You will probably need to use the biggest jugs to start. The main point is you get really pumped!

The Beastmaker (other brands are available) boards have got me through some times when I’ve been overwhelmed with work, and I’ve also kept it up when I’m climbing a lot because it’s so beneficial to any of the branches of climbing.

A board and an app is all you need, however I find setting it up opposite a flat screen TV can really help. I binge watched Battlestar Galactica while recovering from injury. On this point, it takes a long time to build tendon strength, so take it easy at first. Also Dave Mac’s ‘8 out of 10 climbers’ is a valuable read,

What is a hang board good for?

Tendonitis.

I will get my coat. 

A Han board allows you to train Solo....

(I know, sorry. Hey Presley Whippet, wait for me!)

Don't neglect core, pull ups and push ups!

People normally recommend 7/3 reps but you can do longer, e.g. 10s on 5s off. I think the 7/3 is mostly recommended because climbers tend to have poor arithmetic skills.

Neil Gresham put together some endurance protocols during the lockdown that involve hanging with less than body weight for long periods. Pyramids of fingertip pull ups were also recommended. Just see what works for you.

Personally I find the apps annoying and just create my own routines to use with the stopwatch on my £10 Casio.

thanks for the replies, Beastmaker 1000 ordered, training begins this weekend!

Tips:

1. Read/watch as much as you can re reps; the 7/3 sort described above is great for endurance, but max hangs are good for increasing basic finger strength (find e.g. 4 specific edge/grip combinations which you can each just hold for ca. 10s, then do ca. 7 sec hang/2 min rest for all 4; try 3 cycles of this with 5 min between cycles).

2. Be prepared to have to adjust your workout in the beginning, and don't force it!

3. Warm up thoroughly before each session (not only fingers; the shoulders are really important)

4. You have to give your tendons and ligaments time to catch up with the rapid increase in muscle strength, otherwise you'll get injured. I'd start with every 4-5 days, and do an easy week every 4-6 weeks. You should be thinking in terms of months and years for best results, even though the improvement in the first few weeks can be massive.

Enjoy! 

The Han board allows you to go Solo.

07:55 Wed

Great stuff!  You'll definitely feel the benefit!

If you can build a freestanding wall then definitely do it.

we built one last April and wish i’d done it years ago.

Ah bugger, proof I never read threads