UKC

does anyone place pegs on the north face of the ben in winter? I've got a peg hammer on the axe but have never place a peg. Most of the routes (of the few I have done) seem to have plenty of in-situ gear where screws and hexes placements aren't available. 

In reply to mutt:

I think it's fair to carry some pegs as a 'get out of jail free' card in extremis, but not too place them routinely.

In reply to mutt:

Mountaineering Scotland's page on winter ethics says:

"Pegs are carried by many climbers but ideally only used if absolutely necessary. Knowing how to place them correctly is important and they should not be left in the rock."

https://www.mountaineering.scot/activities/mountaineering/winter-climbing/s....

Of course, "absolutely necessary" is subjective and open to interpretation.  

In reply to mutt:

If I need it, it's going in. I would count bulldogs, terriers, pegs, peckers and other assorted dodginess in the same category. Every other route would probably be a fair rate for me.

In reply to carr0t:

It's not cool to place pegs, hammers ruin the lines of your euro designer tools (note tools not axes). So cool you may earn a designer plaster boot or full body cast. 

In reply to Presley Whippet:

I can't for the life of me figure out what that is actually meant to say...

In reply to mutt:

Yes but agree as last resort. The rock is very compact compared to Cairngorm granite so often hard to find a good one. 

In reply to mutt:

The Ben is one place I would routinely carry pegs although I rarely actually place them.

In reply to carr0t:

I think it is saying that cool, trendy ice hammers these days don't actually have a hammer at all or only a tiny useless one, so, if you use one, you might not be able to place a peg which might have prevented serious injury in the event of a fall.

In reply to mutt: yes. Took a big lead fall on the Ben some years ago, 3xpeg belay, two became very loose following the fall, third was good,not sure either me or my partner would be here without them.

use in necessity and remove when possible.

In reply to mutt:

my pegs are to my rack what airbags are to my car ! I hope to never place them! I think I placed a peg on a very verglassed pitch of a vi which name escapes me. I was clove itching ice bosses to that point if memory serves me well. It was retrieved by my second.

edit is the name of route which came back to me:Stringfellow (VI 6)

In reply to French Erick:

Nice one Erick. My peg ring is now renamed the airbag.

In reply to mutt:

I have a much reduced set these days - a knife blade (well-used on otherwise desolate belays), a thin angle and a pecker.  The latter has been man of the match on several occasions, and has not often needed much of a tap with a hammer, if any, to set it.  Plus a bulldog which is also versatile

In reply to carr0t:

You haven't mentioned foxes.