8m.

Rockfax Description
A superb and committing arete with the crux, and some rather battered protection close to the top. Often done above pads at a scary f6A+. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1975

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The Gritual, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Fiend 5 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: An intense experience for your average E2/3 leader... The rock is great, the holds satisfying, and the finish particularly nice. The gear however, is somewhat sub-optimal, although a varied and careful selection would hold a fall. The grade (sans mats) - E4 5d of course.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: An intense experience for your average E2/3 leader... The rock is great, the holds satisfying, and the finish particularly nice. The gear however, is somewhat sub-optimal, although a varied and careful selection would hold a fall. The grade (sans mats) - E4 5d of course.
Tommy G 7 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Odd That! As you rely totally on your seemingly endless supply of brute strength. Nice1
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Odd That! As you rely totally on your seemingly endless supply of brute strength. Nice1
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 14 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I think it's E5 for the onsight solo but E4 if you lead it and afterall, this should be the grade it gets. Topping out isn't 'that' much easier than the rockover.
 
Show beta
βeta: I think it's E5 for the onsight solo but E4 if you lead it and afterall, this should be the grade it gets. Topping out isn't 'that' much easier than the rockover.
Iggy_B 25 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: It wasn't a 2 it was a 1.5
 
Show beta
βeta: It wasn't a 2 it was a 1.5
north country boy 14 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Quite easy if u are tall, the span 2 the arete is the hardest move! did it solo with no mat, and considering the possible bollock castrating landing on the block, i think its worth E5!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quite easy if u are tall, the span 2 the arete is the hardest move! did it solo with no mat, and considering the possible bollock castrating landing on the block, i think its worth E5!
crazydiamond 8 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The move going from the left crimp to the crimp below the break is really quite hard for the small... fantastic route tho!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The move going from the left crimp to the crimp below the break is really quite hard for the small... fantastic route tho!
The Flying Giraffe 14 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I trundled up to the break expecting gear, armed with a friend 0 and 00, only to find sweet FA. So I trundled back down... Since then I've been told that you can get a decent RP in, but this is pretty hard unless its pre-placed. Worth low E5 for an onsight solo with no pads IMO.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I trundled up to the break expecting gear, armed with a friend 0 and 00, only to find sweet FA. So I trundled back down... Since then I've been told that you can get a decent RP in, but this is pretty hard unless its pre-placed. Worth low E5 for an onsight solo with no pads IMO.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Droyd 3 Jun TR dog Figured out the moves but uninspired by the shit gear. Better as a solo?
with tp45597
Figured out the moves but uninspired by the shit gear. Better as a solo?
with tp45597
Hidden 3 Jun TR
Hidden 19 Apr TR dog
Oplumb 19 Apr TR RP
Dr Toph 13 Apr Solo O/S
JCAshman 12 Apr Solo β Action packed highball with scary slopey top.
Action packed highball with scary slopey top.
Hidden 11 Apr Lead O/S
Russell Blackaller 6 Apr Solo O/S
simon cox 18 Mar -
simon cox 18 Mar -
Felix la shat 9 Dec, 2018 Solo G/U Had to jump off with frozen hands
Had to jump off with frozen hands
AlexMorris 22 Feb, 2018 Solo G/U Above pads
with Jwatson
Above pads
with Jwatson
harry.morrish 16 Feb, 2018 Solo dnf wouldn't commit to the moves from the safety of the break, frustrating !
wouldn't commit to the moves from the safety of the break, frustrating !
tom.wp6 16 Feb, 2018 Solo dnf
with Jwatson
with Jwatson
Jwatson 16 Feb, 2018 Solo G/U Pads
Pads
Jandwilson 16 Feb, 2018 Solo β Above pads, nearly slipped off on the easy section at the bottom
with AlexMorris, Jwatson
Above pads, nearly slipped off on the easy section at the bottom
with AlexMorris, Jwatson
Haydn Jones 1 Nov, 2017 Solo β Went up and down before committing after watching nick do it
with NDD
Went up and down before committing after watching nick do it
with NDD
oliver.ghill91 1 Nov, 2017 Solo
with Michaela t , Hayden, NDD
with Michaela t , Hayden, NDD
DanC1985 17 Sep, 2017 TR dog
with Sarah
with Sarah
Hidden 21 Jul, 2017 Solo
Hidden ?Jan, 2017 Solo
Hidden 17 Dec, 2016 Lead RP
Martin Bagshaw 17 Dec, 2016 TR RP
James Oswald 4 Dec, 2016 Solo dnf Backed off.
with ferdia
Backed off.
with ferdia
ferdia 4 Dec, 2016 Solo O/S damp today. was glad of some extra pads from passers by. only really committing once you leave the good left hand/gear slot. the rest is reversible.
damp today. was glad of some extra pads from passers by. only really committing once you leave the good left hand/gear slot. the rest is reversible.
Hidden 21 Oct, 2016 Lead rpt
Dave Heaton 21 Oct, 2016 Lead RP
with James Forbes
with James Forbes
JamesTurnbull97 9 Oct, 2016 Solo O/S Good climbing to an exciting finish. Don't think 1 pad would have been much benefit.
Good climbing to an exciting finish. Don't think 1 pad would have been much benefit.
Rory_Cummings_NI 6 Oct, 2016 Lead G/U
Hidden 2 Oct, 2016 TR O/S
Joe Lawson 1 Oct, 2016 Sent β
Dave Heaton 23 Sep, 2016 Lead dog
with James Forbes
with James Forbes
Hidden 23 Sep, 2016 Lead dog
will9911 31 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Dave Heaton 8 May, 2016 TR
Ben Grounsell 25 Mar, 2016 Solo G/U
Louishmouis 25 Mar, 2016 Solo rpt Lavly!
with ben, Felix
Lavly!
with ben, Felix
mrteale 3 Mar, 2016 Solo dnf Got to the break but hung around long enough to get severe hot aches and psyche myself out for the top. Attempted to reverse the tricky moves but balanced off and landed on the grass. Annoyed to have blown the OS! Will be back.
with amccann
Got to the break but hung around long enough to get severe hot aches and psyche myself out for the top. Attempted to reverse the tricky moves but balanced off and landed on the grass. Annoyed to have blown the OS! Will be back.
with amccann
Matt Cooke 4 Oct, 2015 Solo RP
Dale Comley 4 Oct, 2015 Solo β
Louishmouis 6 Sep, 2015 Lead
with finn
with finn
CharlieMack 4 Jun, 2015 TR RP Harder than I expected. Quite a long move in the middle for my short arms.
with Shunt
Harder than I expected. Quite a long move in the middle for my short arms.
with Shunt
Jackwd 10 May, 2015 TR dnf Too sweaty today!
Too sweaty today!
NDD 24 Apr, 2015 Solo
Nick1812P 17 Apr, 2015 Solo O/S above pad.
above pad.
Ollie B 4 Jan, 2015 Solo O/S
Stefan_Morris 2 Nov, 2014 Solo O/S
Ed morris 2 Nov, 2014 Solo O/S
with harry, stefan
with harry, stefan
Hidden 1 Nov, 2014 Solo
Hidden 1 Nov, 2014 Solo G/U
al123 22 Sep, 2014 Solo
Jay.Carr 12 Jun, 2014 Solo
WillDoyle 16 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Didn't get any gear.
Didn't get any gear.
Hidden 11 Apr, 2014 Solo β
Jay C 22 Feb, 2014 Solo dnf Couldn't commit to last few moves. Will be back
Couldn't commit to last few moves. Will be back
samwillo 22 Feb, 2014 Solo Flash
Flash
Hidden 22 Feb, 2014 Solo β
Gus 1 Dec, 2013 Solo
with chris barr
with chris barr
Hidden 1 Dec, 2013 Solo
Chris_barr 1 Dec, 2013 Solo β
with Gus, Guy
with Gus, Guy
Matthew Ferrier 30 Nov, 2013 Solo O/S Took rack and rope optimistically but couldn't find any gear that wasn't terrible.
Took rack and rope optimistically but couldn't find any gear that wasn't terrible.
liamoloughlin 16 Nov, 2013 Solo RP
James Oakes 6 Oct, 2013 Solo β 2 big pads, 3 small. Easy for 5c.
2 big pads, 3 small. Easy for 5c.
Andy Moles 30 Sep, 2013 Solo RP
with -
with -
Max Lowry 20 Sep, 2013 Solo O/S Nice route :)
Nice route :)
Hidden 24 Jul, 2013 TR
Hidden 18 Jul, 2013 Lead RP
BRoe 30 May, 2013 Solo O/S Very damp, very sketchy.
Very damp, very sketchy.
mark20 2 Mar, 2013 Sent β
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?Mar, 2013 Solo
w.pettet-smith ?Feb, 2013 - with a few pals and mats. steady and fairly safe. proper solo to follow
with a few pals and mats. steady and fairly safe. proper solo to follow
ejected ??, 2013 -
samt ??, 2013 -
Sam Lawson ??, 2013 -
will smith11 30 Dec, 2012 Solo G/U ground up with 2 pads and a spotter
with Twisty
ground up with 2 pads and a spotter
with Twisty
Hidden 15 Nov, 2012 Solo β
Jay C 10 Nov, 2012 TR Will lead it next time
with SteveHi, Jack N, Sam Cooke
Will lead it next time
with SteveHi, Jack N, Sam Cooke
SteveHi 10 Nov, 2012 TR O/S
with Jay Conlon
with Jay Conlon
nathanlee 8 Nov, 2012 Solo etch a sketch
etch a sketch
BenNorman 8 Nov, 2012 Solo Ground Up, 5th attempt. Got the slot as an undercut and committed to the sloper, real scary. Hard for E4 surely?
Ground Up, 5th attempt. Got the slot as an undercut and committed to the sloper, real scary. Hard for E4 surely?
Ram MkiV 2 Apr, 2012 Solo rpt
Ethan 12 Mar, 2012 Solo
with Ted, Bailes, Ed, Kitty
with Ted, Bailes, Ed, Kitty
kingholmesy ??, 2012 Solo O/S Wet top-out added extra excitement.
Wet top-out added extra excitement.
stefie c 25 Apr, 2011 TR
with JohnFJP
with JohnFJP
JohnFJP 25 Apr, 2011 TR RP
Hidden 23 Apr, 2011 TR
Hidden 23 Apr, 2011 TR
simon kimber 16 Apr, 2011 Solo O/S lovely positive climbing, soft for the grade
lovely positive climbing, soft for the grade
markalmack 16 Apr, 2011 Solo β
with james marjot
with james marjot
Chris J Houston 10 Apr, 2011 Solo β
with The Dumby Team
with The Dumby Team
Hidden 10 Apr, 2011 Solo O/S
DJayB 10 Apr, 2011 Solo β
Hidden 10 Apr, 2011 Solo β
ali_robb ?Apr, 2011 Solo β
jacobjacob 20 Mar, 2011 Solo O/S
cliffrad 13 Mar, 2011 Solo O/S
Mike Goldthorp 4 Mar, 2011 Solo O/S Lovely day on my own at burbage with a couple of pads. A great route to finish off a great week! Once sussed the moves were steady 5c, but easily misread. Probably protectable in that slot, but at the cost of the best hold. Nosferatu next.
Lovely day on my own at burbage with a couple of pads. A great route to finish off a great week! Once sussed the moves were steady 5c, but easily misread. Probably protectable in that slot, but at the cost of the best hold. Nosferatu next.
MicheleC ?Mar, 2011 Solo
Gambit 29 Jan, 2011 Solo RP IMO the slot refered to below has always been there, could not get anything to fit myself so don't count on it!
with Rob
IMO the slot refered to below has always been there, could not get anything to fit myself so don't count on it!
with Rob
Milne 28 Jan, 2011 TR RP 2nd go. solo soon.
2nd go. solo soon.
harvie 14 Nov, 2010 Solo
J.Wells 17 Oct, 2010 Solo O/S
with Luke Jones
with Luke Jones
pipof747 8 Oct, 2010 Solo O/S
daniel hobbs 13 Sep, 2010 Lead RP 4 attempt on top rope then lead.
4 attempt on top rope then lead.
dominic lee 9 Sep, 2010 Solo rpt
MorganPreece 1 Sep, 2010 TR rpt Really nice moves when ur not craping ur self, when i did it 2years ago there wasunt a bomber DMM 4CU cam placement at half hight, looks very chiped out, just wondering if anyone else had seen it????
with Jessy and Solo
Really nice moves when ur not craping ur self, when i did it 2years ago there wasunt a bomber DMM 4CU cam placement at half hight, looks very chiped out, just wondering if anyone else had seen it????
with Jessy and Solo
Climber1806 31 Aug, 2010 TR RP
FlorianCastagne 18 Aug, 2010 Lead RP What a line! Just one gear
What a line! Just one gear
Pippa 8 Aug, 2010 2nd
Jethro ?Aug, 2010 Lead
Jonathan Hall 27 Jul, 2010 TR Got it clean after some work, it did feel like a v long stretch for me though.
with RM199
Got it clean after some work, it did feel like a v long stretch for me though.
with RM199
7om 30 Jun, 2010 Lead RP with pads. lovely moves at the top
with pads. lovely moves at the top
Hidden ?Apr, 2010 TR β
bigie bob 5 Mar, 2010 Solo O/S
C coldwell-storry 1 Mar, 2010 Solo O/S
with rob lay
with rob lay
going going gone 2 Feb, 2010 Lead RP the most gripped i've been on a trad climb so far. super happy afterwards
the most gripped i've been on a trad climb so far. super happy afterwards
St0neMonkey 10 Jan, 2010 Solo RP
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
nathanmanc 29 Oct, 2009 Solo RP
frost 27 Sep, 2009 Solo O/S
with D Garry
with D Garry
akhughes 24 Sep, 2009 Solo O/S awesome route. Basic 5c, but serious climbing.
awesome route. Basic 5c, but serious climbing.
mgeek 23 Sep, 2009 Solo β
with adam hughes
with adam hughes
sparkass 12 Sep, 2009 Lead β
with Rob Lovatt
with Rob Lovatt
Boy ?Sep, 2009 -
with Nige Kershaw
with Nige Kershaw
MorganPreece 11 Apr, 2009 Solo
with Max and Monty
with Max and Monty
hamer89 5 Apr, 2009 Lead RP
St0neMonkey ??, 2009 Solo rpt
stephenhartley ??, 2009 2nd
Hidden 7 Dec, 2008 Solo β
Somerset swede basher 7 Sep, 2008 Solo O/S
MYSSAK 24 May, 2008 Solo rpt
maybe_si 10 May, 2008 TR O/S
The old James turnbull ?Apr, 2008 Lead
Wil Treasure 13 Feb, 2008 Solo RP Wish I'd attempted this onsight, but the thought of the landing put me off.
Wish I'd attempted this onsight, but the thought of the landing put me off.
Hidden 13 Feb, 2008 Solo β
MYSSAK 3 Nov, 2007 Solo β
lx 29 Oct, 2007 Solo O/S one mat and one spotter
with neil
one mat and one spotter
with neil
Mark Riley 20 Oct, 2007 Solo With mats, after watching Tom, did the top differently though. Great route.
With mats, after watching Tom, did the top differently though. Great route.
Ram MkiV 2 Oct, 2007 Solo O/S had my pad over the sharp boulder. great, exciting route.
had my pad over the sharp boulder. great, exciting route.
Tommy G ?Oct, 2007 Solo β Repeat
Repeat
Sidekick 18 Sep, 2007 Solo RP
Toby Dunn 1 May, 2007 Solo
with John
with John
tatz45 21 Apr, 2007 Lead RP
with Aly Robertson
with Aly Robertson
Hidden 14 Mar, 2007 -
Hidden 11 Mar, 2007 Solo β
Andrew Jennings ??, 2007 Sent
Andrew Barker 24 Oct, 2006 Solo O/S Awesome line, dodgy topout.
Awesome line, dodgy topout.
Hidden 23 Oct, 2006 Lead RP
alaan 24 Sep, 2006 Lead rpt No mats this time :)
with Pete
No mats this time :)
with Pete
alaan 18 Sep, 2006 Lead β With mats (sorry).
With mats (sorry).
Hidden ??, 2006 -
bronsonite 13 Nov, 2005 Lead RP
with Nathan Lawrence
with Nathan Lawrence
Hidden ?Nov, 2005 Solo RP
joe c ook ?Oct, 2005 Lead β
with A. Harrison
with A. Harrison
Dave Bond 19 Sep, 2005 Solo
Apharri ?Jun, 2005 Lead O/S
Ian Broome 12 May, 2005 TR
with Spence
with Spence
dannyboy83 ?Apr, 2005 Solo O/S
Hidden ?Mar, 2005 Solo O/S
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 Solo O/S
Hidden 26 Jul, 2004 Solo O/S
Chris Reid 24 Apr, 2004 Solo O/S
climber34neil 12 Mar, 2004 Lead
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 1 Jun, 2003 Solo G/U
spidey 19 Oct, 2002 Solo β
with Nige Kershaw
with Nige Kershaw
Ropeboy 31 May, 2001 Solo
middlevern ?Mar, 2001 Lead β Ground Up
Ground Up
tuftynick ??, 2001 -
Vince Smedley 9 Oct, 2000 Solo β
with Anton
with Anton
Hidden 9 Aug, 2000 TR
Hidden 9 Aug, 2000 TR dog
gavjwp ?May, 2000 TR O/S
with Gilli Helbig
with Gilli Helbig
Hidden 28 Apr, 2000 Lead RP
Seb Grieve ??, 2000 -
Hidden ??, 2000 TR O/S
kevp 17 Oct, 1999 Lead RP
with Tim Legge
with Tim Legge
Rich Kirby 16 May, 1999 Lead O/S
with Hugh Cottam/Tim Bonner
with Hugh Cottam/Tim Bonner
Dave Musgrove Jnr 18 Apr, 1999 Solo
with Mike Weeks
with Mike Weeks
r0b 27 Mar, 1999 Solo RP
TBowell nee Holdsworth ??, 1999 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 18 Jul, 1998 Lead O/S
with tim russon, James Ibbertson
with tim russon, James Ibbertson
Hidden 8 Mar, 1997 Solo
jfletcher 7 Sep, 1996 Lead O/S
marconi ??, 1996 Solo RP
with Richard G, Bingham
with Richard G, Bingham
Hidden 8 Jul, 1995 TR O/S
Laramadness 4 Jun, 1995 TR
Davros the Psyched ??, 1995 Solo O/S
robyn1 ??, 1995 -
mattnuttall 5 Aug, 1994 Solo rpt
mattnuttall 17 Jul, 1994 Solo rpt
Hidden 9 Jul, 1994 TR
ste_d 10 Jun, 1994 Solo O/S
mattnuttall 12 May, 1994 Solo O/S
Craig Barton ??, 1993 Solo RP
Hidden ?Sep, 1992 2nd
IanD353 ?Apr, 1992 Lead O/S
mik1miller ??, 1992 Solo
Stoney Boy 27 May, 1991 Lead G/U
Hidden ??, 1990 TR
Hidden ?Sep, 1989 Solo O/S
Nic_Sandy ?Apr, 1988 Solo fell off crux before there was mats, rolled down hill. Got back up and did it. Really stupid coz I was on my own
fell off crux before there was mats, rolled down hill. Got back up and did it. Really stupid coz I was on my own
Hidden ??, 1985 Lead
stp 8 Mar, 1984 Solo O/S
Hidden ??, 1984 Solo
Mark Kemball 14 May, 1983 Lead
with Chris Calow
with Chris Calow
Rob Davies 26 Apr, 1980 2nd dnf
with Martin Moran
with Martin Moran
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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 50
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 53
Votes cast 77
Style of ascent
Soloed
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
DNF
Dogged
Not Set