Rockfax Description
From the fallen block that used to belong to Sorb climb the right-hand arete with cunning (toe and heel hooking) and crimpy holds to a reach for a ledge. Finish up the arete or, more directly, via an extended but safe dyno. Quite a bit easier (E5 6a?) for the really tall. © Rockfax

FA. Andy Barker 1980

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Peak Rock/16/Eighties Gritstone :The Shape of Things to Come, Mike and Connors 2 year plan, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars.

JamesTurnbull97 05/Feb Lead β

Pretty steady in reality just pulling on positive crimps, falling off wouldn't be advisable though.

with Flo
Rory_Cummings_NI 29/Nov/16 TR
with Mike, Charlie
Gloria 23/Oct/16 TR RP

heel hook

with Aaron.Clifford, Eric Pieuchot
g.chalker 10/Oct/16 Lead RP
KennyGeoghegan 26/Jun/16 Lead RP

*Climbed above a pad* Took a few goes to commit. Gear feels higher than it looks. Great climbing. First at the grade.

with Yaz
thealbinocrab 20/May/16 Lead RP

Worked out sequence on top rope, few tries clean. First go clean on lead. First e6, a stunning route.

Louishmouis 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with ben, Felix
Ben Grounsell 25/Mar/16 Lead β
with Louis, Felix
Hidden 23/Mar/16 TR
Matt Cooke 19/Mar/16 Lead β
Gambit 12/Mar/16 TR dnf

Think more work needed before I get on this for real

with OlI
Phil Blue 28/Feb/16 Lead RP
with James 1, cjd91
cjd91 28/Feb/16 Lead RP

Flashed on toprope then did it 2 more times then went for the lead

with phil blue
James 1 28/Feb/16 Lead RP
Somerset swede basher 27/Feb/16 Lead RP

Often given E5 6a by people who climb 8b and don't go for the onsight! Low E6 low 6b seems about right to me. Glad I top roped it first as I fell off first try. 2 laps on the top rope then lead.

with Adam
ashtond6 24/Feb/16 Lead dnf

Bottled it a bit, off after the crux unfortunely. Head gone for second attempt, ground up ascent still on

Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 24/Feb/16 Lead β

Had lots of beta from videos and ab'd down to clean it

Gambit 16/Jan/16 TR dnf

Got it clean on a top rope, plan to do before Easter. E5 6a feels about right

with OlI
Dale Comley 16/Jan/16 Lead β

Very good, very soft

with roshan, Ollie Torr
Dave Heaton 13/Sep/15 TR
harry_lewis 14/May/15 Lead RP

first headpoint, very psyched

Matt Groom 14/May/15 Lead RP

Headpoint, I don't know how I did the last move statically, must have grown mid route!

amccann 14/May/15 Lead RP

Should have probably done this back in december, didn't have an excuse this time as it felt so steady today.

piken 07/Mar/15 Lead RP

Birthday Bash!!

with Andy
Proddler 25/Jan/15 Lead β
harry_lewis 03/Dec/14 TR RP

Shall be back for the lead

Hidden ?/Nov/14 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Oct/14 TR O/S
petegunn 27/Oct/14 TR
with Davina
kermit_uk 19/Oct/14 Lead RP

Happy to finally do this. Felt so good on lead!

nathanlee 19/Oct/14 Solo rpt

Nice to repeat, finished up sorb as didn't fancy the dyno whilst soloing. Plastered in chalk, not pretty!

Wizzy 18/Oct/14 Lead RP

soaking wet when we arrived, but dried relatively quickly. Amazing route! E5 6a

NDD 12/Oct/14 Lead RP
with tony stone
dom94 01/Oct/14 Lead RP

Wow! Just jumped from E3 to E6, mind you that is the first route I have ever seriously headpointed. Ended up doing a different sequence on the lead though!!

mfisher 22/Aug/14 TR
BillyRidal ?/Jul/14 Lead RP

Cool climbing, probably soft though. Found committing to the dyno at the top harder than committing to the start.

LRob 12/Apr/14 Lead RP

Top roped it first. Sorry rich Betts.

LRob 12/Apr/14 Lead RP

Top roped it first. Sorry rich Betts.

Coops_13 29/Mar/14 Lead RP

Amazing climb!

LJC 17/Mar/14 TR RP

A few goes at the start and then flashed to the top first time.

with George, Little Ben, Tom
mike_clayton 08/Mar/14 TR RP

amazing climb! will be back to lead it very soon!

samwillo 22/Feb/14 Lead
with Jay
Jay C 22/Feb/14 TR RP

Will be back to lead it

with Sam W
dj_brigham05 16/Jan/14 Lead RP

A very moist day! Have been saving this for one the onsight for a good while but an impending emigration down under and a very out of shape me necessitated a couple of blasts on a top rope first. Cracking sequence. Worth the wait and don't regret the toprope given the conditions.

MorganPreece 03/Dec/13 Lead
Hidden 03/Dec/13 2nd
Patrick Hill 30/Nov/13 Lead RP
atapper21 30/Nov/13 Lead RP

Made it to the easy reach around the arete just at the top and missed the hold. Pretty exciting fall from up there before all the gear! Done next go, nice route to do ground up.

pie_eater_pete 30/Nov/13 Lead β
with bwestwood
oliver.ghill91 30/Nov/13 Lead RP
Bennykr 30/Nov/13 Lead β

Good beta from Ben and Pete. Found the climbing steady until I got cold hands for the dyno. Such a sweet route.

Hidden 23/Nov/13 Lead RP
dannyboy83 14/Nov/13 Lead β

With all the videos I've seen, I can't really claim a true onsight as it makes a huge difference with this route. Have been putting this one off for around 5 years, felt very easy. Great route.

with Jonny P
funsized 14/Nov/13 2nd dog

blaming the dog on cold hands.

Alex Norman 10/Nov/13 Lead RP

Amazing climb so pleased to do this, psyched! 3 top-ropes before lead.

with Jake Haddock
jake_haddock 10/Nov/13 Lead β

Really good climbing on this.. Psyched to flash it!

with Alex, Callum and Fuzz
Max Lowry 20/Sep/13 Lead RP

Clean on top rope once then sent on first lead :) awesome !!!

Adam Booth 20/Sep/13 Lead RP
with James Dexter, Mike Grant, David Rose
Hidden 20/Sep/13 Lead RP
sgl0jd 20/Sep/13 Lead RP

First E6. Awesome team tick!

Adam Booth 13/Sep/13 TR RP

Bugger, felt good on a toppy, and then rained before I could get on the lead. Next time.

with James Dexter, Mike Grant, David Rose
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Dan McManus
BRoe 11/Aug/13 Lead RP

Top roped it ages ago and it felt nails. Felt so easy today... Fancied going for more e5/6's in one day but craig hit his head and was rescued by an air ambulance so they'll have to wait for another day :D (craigs fine)

mark20 02/Mar/13 Lead β
Short&Savage 02/Mar/13 Lead RP
Hidden 01/Mar/13 Lead β
Hidden 22/Feb/13 Lead β
w.pettet-smith ?/Feb/13 Lead β

with guys beta, a few pads and a few sets of hands.felt steadyier than i would have thought!. onsight above spiky rocks would be different...

samt ??/2013 -
ejected ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden 17/Nov/12 TR dog
J.Wells 15/Nov/12 Lead β
markalmack 10/Nov/12 Solo RP

Fell off from about 4 meters first attempt. Don't know how i missed the boulder. Dyno at the top felt a bit scary without a rope!

with Nicolas Duboust
Hidden 27/Oct/12 Lead RP
al123 20/Oct/12 Lead

jumped off after going for the flash last year, 1st go today. ground up. awesome route!

with ewan
Harry Chaplin 18/Oct/12 Lead β
Jethro ?/Oct/12 TR
St0neMonkey ?/Oct/12 TR
with Jethro
Haydn Jones 22/Jul/12 Lead RP

Cheers for deacon and pep spotting, no mats.

with deacon, pep
Nik Jennings 25/Mar/12 Lead

Damp rock put pay to the onsight early on, second attempt went smoothly.

with Meestah Reek
Ethan 12/Mar/12 Lead β
with Ted
mwatson 05/Mar/12 TR
with shunt
Sidekick 19/Feb/12 Lead RP
Gus 07/Jan/12 Lead rpt
The old James turnbull ?/Jan/12 Lead β

flashed with nathans beta

Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 19/Nov/11 TR
esther ?/Nov/11 Lead RP
Jethro ?/Sep/11 TR
Jethro ?/Sep/11 TR
kermit_uk 08/Jun/11 TR dog

Did the bottom section clean second go didn't do the top as top rope was too low and was knackered will go back and clean it!

Hidden 23/Apr/11 TR
lrandall 21/Apr/11 TR

Couldn't make the crux move eventually frigged it and did the top half clean, including the fantsatic dynamic finish! Would eed to be a lot stronger before I even thought about getting on the lead.

Hidden 21/Apr/11 TR dog
jacobjacob 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S

quite committing stepping off the block but actually quite easy when you go for it, easier for the tall I think.

Nick Sillem ??/2011 -
alaan 03/Dec/10 Lead β

Flashed after watching Eddie storm it. Hands were sooo cold - spent 10mins at the break trying to warm them but to no avail, had to rely on blind faith rather than sense of touch. Highlight was swimming through the snow to walk out at the end of the day.

pipof747 03/Oct/10 Lead RP
Hidden 30/Sep/10 Lead RP
nathanlee 24/Sep/10 Lead RP

Headpoint - First E6!

with Dom Lee
dominic lee 21/Sep/10 Lead RP

last did this with dan in 81.Still feels brilliant.

Jim pratt 15/Aug/10 Lead RP
natetan 22/Jul/10 Lead RP
steve_biczyk 09/May/10 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Apr/10 TR rpt
C coldwell-storry 01/Mar/10 Lead G/U

ground up.

with rob lay
AdamjBailes ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Oct/09 Lead β
Hidden 25/Oct/09 Lead RP
liamoloughlin 18/Oct/09 Lead RP

Wouldn't have moaned if it was E5 6a! Felt easy in the right conditions.

frost 27/Sep/09 Lead RP
with D Garry
mux 27/Sep/09 Lead RP
with Simon Frost ,
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead RP
dodfoster 18/Jul/09 Lead RP
with ben robinson
tallsop 14/Jun/09 TR

linked all moves first time today. waiting till after alps trip to lead.

with alex
tallsop 10/Jun/09 TR

got all the moves, very muggy, spittin wi rain an gettin eaten alive by midges!!! Saving a lead for next time alex is back in town :)

with alex
Andrew1 05/Apr/09 Lead RP
with Ros
Dan 85 19/Mar/09 TR
with Oli
Tommy G 01/Mar/09 Lead RP

What a route!!! Turned up intending to try and flash it but nice guy from down south was topping it so I thought I would have a play. After all this is a step up for me so thought this might be a blessing in disguise. I then felt all the moves and thought this is on! Did it twice on toprope to make sure then lead clean after about 15mins rest. Big respect to Ryan for belaying me and breaking off from his relaxing afternoon. Definatley a very do-able E6!

with Ryan Beggs
nathanmanc 03/Jan/09 Lead RP
with Steve
stevebarratt ??/2009 Lead RP

Not E6 for very tall folk.

with Nathan Lawrence
Hidden 31/Dec/08 Lead RP
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Nov/08 Solo β

Great route. A couple of guys were out toproping and they gave me a spot at the start. Bottled out of the move from the breaks to the top of the crag given that I was soloing!

Hidden 04/Nov/07 Lead RP
willackers 04/Nov/07 Lead β

Flashed after belaying Mr Walker on it.

with Dan Walker, John Atkinson
Hidden 01/Nov/07 Solo O/S
lx 29/Oct/07 Lead

head point. done in half an hour. really good moves. E5 climbing with an E6 landing. Soft 6b

with neil
Ram MkiV 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S

perfect conditions, felt great.

with alex b & eddie b
Hidden 10/Sep/07 Lead
Apharri ?/Sep/07 Lead RP
with Tom Parry
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 06/Aug/07 Lead RP

Think it'd be very scary to onsight, steady in the grade though.

Toby Dunn 23/May/07 Lead RP
with dave evans
Hidden 11/Mar/07 Lead β
fizzy_elephant 11/Mar/07 TR RP

beautiful climbing. will be back to lead!

with Lloyd Betsworth
Dave Bond 09/Mar/07 Lead RP
with ollie
Hidden 21/Oct/06 Lead RP
Hidden 03/Oct/06 Lead RP
switch ??/2006 Solo O/S

E5 6a, no pads

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Solo O/S
simes303 ??/2002 Lead RP

No pads. Very very soft for E6.

tuftynick ?/Oct/01 Solo O/S
with Kenton Cool
Seb Grieve ??/2000 -
sadams 08/Jun/99 Lead β
with unseconded
bronsonite 15/May/99 Solo RP
Jon Read ?/May/99 Lead RP

Pre-mats: 2 rucksacs.

with Matt Gallagher
Hidden 13/Apr/97 Lead
Davros the Psyched ??/1997 Solo O/S
Dave Douglas 02/Aug/96 TR O/S

Felt easy on a top rope!!

with Ed Morgan
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High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 52
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 65
Votes cast 64
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set