22m.

Rockfax Description
A popular testpiece. Difficulties escalate to a hard final move - easier after a quick rest on the rope! The sandy roof above the cave gives a gripping struggle passing an ancient bong peg. The bottom section is often done on its own being hard but safe, though the belay spikes in the cave have now gone. © Rockfax

FAA. Peter Biven 1956. FFA. Steve Bancroft, John Allen 1976

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, London Wall Training List, Monopoly, The Millstone 'Streets', World Graded List, 50 cracks to Squamish, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, James' Winter Grit ticklist, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Bugs training

Feedback

UserDateNotes
ksjs 14 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: i did this as the E3 6a version: my first Millstone 6a effort and it felt difficult (ie a bigger gap between 5c and 6a than i had expected). i found the moves to reach the upper part of the crack sequence dependent and reachy without much for your feet (maybe i just dont use my feet well enough?). great gear throughout and impossible to clip the peg but you dont really need it (having it pre-threaded would though make things feel more relaxed). good moves and a great finish.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i did this as the E3 6a version: my first Millstone 6a effort and it felt difficult (ie a bigger gap between 5c and 6a than i had expected). i found the moves to reach the upper part of the crack sequence dependent and reachy without much for your feet (maybe i just dont use my feet well enough?). great gear throughout and impossible to clip the peg but you dont really need it (having it pre-threaded would though make things feel more relaxed). good moves and a great finish.
Adrian Berry 16 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Note: the peg on the first pich no longer has any cord to clip - making it impossible to clip unless you thread a wire through it - the first half is worth E4 in its own right in its current state.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Note: the peg on the first pich no longer has any cord to clip - making it impossible to clip unless you thread a wire through it - the first half is worth E4 in its own right in its current state.
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
pete1993 7 Oct, 2018 Lead dnf failure got to the 'rest' in the lower crack my fingers went numb from the cold and turns out it's pretty hard above there, will be back
failure got to the 'rest' in the lower crack my fingers went numb from the cold and turns out it's pretty hard above there, will be back
AndrewJamesCherry 14 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Pitch 1 - E4 6a tops. Climbing up through the the cave looks like sandy death! No thanks.
Pitch 1 - E4 6a tops. Climbing up through the the cave looks like sandy death! No thanks.
harry.morrish 19 Jun, 2018 Lead dnf Fab until pumped out entering crux sequence , then arms gave up
with Jwatson
Fab until pumped out entering crux sequence , then arms gave up
with Jwatson
Jwatson 19 Jun, 2018 Lead G/U To the cave. Got summit fever standing up for the finish jugs and foot slipped on onsight go.
To the cave. Got summit fever standing up for the finish jugs and foot slipped on onsight go.
Hidden 28 May, 2018 Lead rpt
Andy Moles 3 May, 2018 TR Abseiled for gear after failed lead attempt, then shunted the ab line.
with traxion
Abseiled for gear after failed lead attempt, then shunted the ab line.
with traxion
Terry Cruise ??, 2018 Lead G/U
rocksol ??, 2018 -
clanger ??, 2018 Lead 1st pitch only.
with Steve Bell
1st pitch only.
with Steve Bell
James Oakes 20 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with Henry Francis
with Henry Francis
ashtond6 8 Jul, 2017 Lead rpt First go today. Roasting. Needed some commitment for that top move!
First go today. Roasting. Needed some commitment for that top move!
Hidden 8 Jul, 2017 Lead RP
ashtond6 4 Jul, 2017 Lead G/U E4 6b/5.11d/7a P1. Would have gone 3rd go on Saturday if I was fitter
E4 6b/5.11d/7a P1. Would have gone 3rd go on Saturday if I was fitter
ashtond6 2 Jul, 2017 Lead dnf So close. Not all day fit enough yet.
So close. Not all day fit enough yet.
Hidden 13 Jun, 2017 Lead dog
Hidden 2 May, 2017 Lead dog
Tom Briggs 20 Apr, 2017 2nd rpt
with Nic Sellers
with Nic Sellers
robertmichaellovell 2 Apr, 2017 Lead dog Just to the cave, still hard just getting there!
with Gema Martin, Tim Rodgers
Just to the cave, still hard just getting there!
with Gema Martin, Tim Rodgers
Sam Marks 23 Apr, 2016 Lead dnf Fell at the last hurdle, shall be back!
with sheffield bunch, leeds bunch
Fell at the last hurdle, shall be back!
with sheffield bunch, leeds bunch
NDD 17 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S 1st part E4.
with sam harvie
1st part E4.
with sam harvie
Andy Peak 1 13 Feb, 2016 Lead dnf Fell of top move on the lower crack again, what a pain in the Arsenal
with Andrew Deckon
Fell of top move on the lower crack again, what a pain in the Arsenal
with Andrew Deckon
Jacob Phillips ??, 2016 -
The old James turnbull 13 Oct, 2015 Lead Done clean and few years ago. Today bottom went fine but rested coming out of the cave having gone the wrong way through the sand. Then got scared on the head wall. Awesome
with dave brown
Done clean and few years ago. Today bottom went fine but rested coming out of the cave having gone the wrong way through the sand. Then got scared on the head wall. Awesome
with dave brown
Adam Long 10 Oct, 2015 AltLd Led first pitch, Pete top great
with Char Williams, Pete Robins
Led first pitch, Pete top great
with Char Williams, Pete Robins
pearson9596 15 Aug, 2015 Lead G/U To the cave.
To the cave.
quiffhanger 15 Aug, 2015 Lead G/U On Mike's gear & to the cave. V close to the flash - still don't know why I fell off!
On Mike's gear & to the cave. V close to the flash - still don't know why I fell off!
Nick1812P 16 Jul, 2015 Lead β 1st pitch on Ben's gear, happy to get the flash.
1st pitch on Ben's gear, happy to get the flash.
benkelsey 15 Jul, 2015 Lead RP Finally. Very hot, just first pitch. E4 6a?
with Shaun Humphreys
Finally. Very hot, just first pitch. E4 6a?
with Shaun Humphreys
Simon Davis 10 May, 2015 Lead Pitch 1 E4 6b on Tim's gear.
with Tim P
Pitch 1 E4 6b on Tim's gear.
with Tim P
Hidden 26 Apr, 2015 Lead RP
harry_lewis 23 Apr, 2015 Lead RP First pitch at e4. managed to get a nut stuck by the rest
First pitch at e4. managed to get a nut stuck by the rest
harry_lewis 19 Apr, 2015 Lead dog fell off the last move going into the cave
fell off the last move going into the cave
M_Robinson 15 Apr, 2015 TR
with Phil373
with Phil373
Andy Peak 1 22 Mar, 2015 Lead dnf Fell at the crux again!! Softer shoes next attempt!!
Fell at the crux again!! Softer shoes next attempt!!
robertmctague 8 Feb, 2015 Lead G/U P1, e4
P1, e4
Ellis Bird ??, 2015 Lead O/S To keyhole
To keyhole
benkelsey 4 Nov, 2014 Lead dnf grabbed the ledge at the keyhole to the left of the crack - very slopey. didn't quite have the power to stick it and took the fall onto the peg. so very close.
with Shaun Humphreys
grabbed the ledge at the keyhole to the left of the crack - very slopey. didn't quite have the power to stick it and took the fall onto the peg. so very close.
with Shaun Humphreys
benkelsey 19 Oct, 2014 Lead dnf went for the flash, felt alright to the peg, fluffed it. two more ground up ascents getting slightly higher.
with remus
went for the flash, felt alright to the peg, fluffed it. two more ground up ascents getting slightly higher.
with remus
Hidden 19 Oct, 2014 Lead RP
Ally Smith 18 Oct, 2014 Lead RP Flashed to ledge, then got weirded out by the sandy shite and sat on the gear. Lead clean next time on Dan's gear.
Flashed to ledge, then got weirded out by the sandy shite and sat on the gear. Lead clean next time on Dan's gear.
Tradical 5 Oct, 2014 TR dnf Just climbed to the tat, without gear getting in the way or needing taking out this felt about HVS/E1 on TR. Good effort from D and J.
Just climbed to the tat, without gear getting in the way or needing taking out this felt about HVS/E1 on TR. Good effort from D and J.
Hidden 5 Oct, 2014 2nd dog
danJBA 22 Sep, 2014 2nd dog
dan gibson 22 Sep, 2014 Lead RP Tried the first pitch about 8 years ago but failed. Climbed both pitches in a oner first go this time. The top section through the roof is exciting, the headwall is no pushover with pump and ropedrag.
with helen gibson
Tried the first pitch about 8 years ago but failed. Climbed both pitches in a oner first go this time. The top section through the roof is exciting, the headwall is no pushover with pump and ropedrag.
with helen gibson
James Oswald 10 Aug, 2014 Lead dog Two falls. Will try properly next time. Ace route.
with Alex Mccan
Two falls. Will try properly next time. Ace route.
with Alex Mccan
ashtond6 12 Jul, 2014 Lead dnf Fell off today at top crux
Fell off today at top crux
jonleighton 28 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S P1 only
P1 only
Hidden 3 May, 2014 TR
pie_eater_pete 19 Apr, 2014 Lead
LRob 14 Apr, 2014 Lead Climbed to peg. Thought about lowering but then got scared at the thought of lowering of peg in mud. So cracked on. Not 6b through the roof but good fun.
Climbed to peg. Thought about lowering but then got scared at the thought of lowering of peg in mud. So cracked on. Not 6b through the roof but good fun.
Brannock 6 Oct, 2013 Lead dog P1, woff woff, reet hard.
P1, woff woff, reet hard.
Misha 8 Sep, 2013 Lead dnf Dogged to death! Fine to the resting ledge on the bottom section, then well hard! Had best part of ten goes getting past the peg and then again on the last couple of moves. A high left foot was the answer both times. Probably not too bad if you can figure out the moves straight away but would still be hard. Safe as houses so didn't really take any falls, more like slumps onto gear. Couldn't get last the moe over the roof - it's nails! I reckon it's a leftward facing rockover onto a high left foot. Abbed for the gear and apart from that move the top section looked ok.
with eduardo
Dogged to death! Fine to the resting ledge on the bottom section, then well hard! Had best part of ten goes getting past the peg and then again on the last couple of moves. A high left foot was the answer both times. Probably not too bad if you can figure out the moves straight away but would still be hard. Safe as houses so didn't really take any falls, more like slumps onto gear. Couldn't get last the moe over the roof - it's nails! I reckon it's a leftward facing rockover onto a high left foot. Abbed for the gear and apart from that move the top section looked ok.
with eduardo
eduardo 8 Sep, 2013 TR dnf Found the lower crack very hard, failed to get even to the peg.
with Misha
Found the lower crack very hard, failed to get even to the peg.
with Misha
Hidden 27 May, 2013 Lead RP
Hidden 19 May, 2013 Lead dog
Andy Peak 1 29 Apr, 2013 Lead dnf Fell from last move lowered of will go back this week and finish
Fell from last move lowered of will go back this week and finish
Apharri 24 Apr, 2013 Lead RP Fell on the crux last week. Ok this time. P1 only.
Fell on the crux last week. Ok this time. P1 only.
hamer89 4 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S Brilliant crack line and tough one at that.
Brilliant crack line and tough one at that.
ejected ??, 2013 -
Marcus ??, 2013 -
Hidden 10 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 Sep, 2012 Lead dog
Keendan 6 Sep, 2012 Lead 1st half, Very safe. Was put off by the horrible sandy cave.
1st half, Very safe. Was put off by the horrible sandy cave.
Howard Lawledge 5 Aug, 2012 Lead
with luke
with luke
Hidden 20 Jun, 2012 -
markalmack 10 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S 1st lead of the season. Didn't realise it was 6b at the time, not sure it was. No gear after that big peg in the cave. I was gripped! Shame about the sand in the middle. didn't find that bit fun. 6b climbing with no gear in the upper half of the route = E5
1st lead of the season. Didn't realise it was 6b at the time, not sure it was. No gear after that big peg in the cave. I was gripped! Shame about the sand in the middle. didn't find that bit fun. 6b climbing with no gear in the upper half of the route = E5
mwatson 21 Feb, 2012 Lead rpt
with JRae
with JRae
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
maddy.c ??, 2012 Lead O/S
Adam Long 15 Oct, 2011 Lead As one big pitch. E4 6a to the cave, then 6b round the roof, and bold up the top wall = E5.
with Char Williams
As one big pitch. E4 6a to the cave, then 6b round the roof, and bold up the top wall = E5.
with Char Williams
JRae 25 May, 2011 Lead dnf
with M Scott
with M Scott
thomasadixon 12 Apr, 2011 Lead dog Felt easy up to the crux...which I then failed on miserably. Finally got with a long reach, tough!
Felt easy up to the crux...which I then failed on miserably. Finally got with a long reach, tough!
steve_yo 10 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S Up to the cave only
with jojo
Up to the cave only
with jojo
CharlieMack 9 Apr, 2011 2nd dog Got the crux, then both my feet popped! Held on for a few more seconds, but in vain. Gutted!
Got the crux, then both my feet popped! Held on for a few more seconds, but in vain. Gutted!
Hidden 9 Apr, 2011 Lead
JulesV 20 Mar, 2011 Lead rpt 1st pitch
with Shauna Cunningham
1st pitch
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden 8 Feb, 2011 Lead dnf
Ed Booth 20 Jan, 2011 Lead O/S Had a mooch to second half, but not got my trad haed fully warmed up after winter of bouldering. Need to get back on it tho, looked ace! Scary enough rapping off the peg.
Had a mooch to second half, but not got my trad haed fully warmed up after winter of bouldering. Need to get back on it tho, looked ace! Scary enough rapping off the peg.
Hidden 17 Oct, 2010 Lead
Rich Kirby 18 Sep, 2010 Lead rpt
with Eric Hildrew
with Eric Hildrew
Hidden 16 Aug, 2010 2nd
DJayB 16 Aug, 2010 Lead dog Couple of hard moves near top. Couldn't be bothered to go for RP
Couple of hard moves near top. Couldn't be bothered to go for RP
highrepute 7 Aug, 2010 Lead dog
rockaddiction ?Jun, 2010 Lead RP
Hidden ?Jun, 2010 -
Hidden 13 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Apr, 2010 Lead
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
Dave Turnbull, BMC 26 Sep, 2009 2nd Crack only. Led in c.2001.
with Marcus Payne
Crack only. Led in c.2001.
with Marcus Payne
Mr Wild 22 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S to cave
to cave
Hidden 11 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
mux 29 May, 2009 Lead dog Very hot and greasy
with Simon and Andrea
Very hot and greasy
with Simon and Andrea
Boy 9 May, 2009 - Full route after doing section to cave five or so years earlier
with Fiona Fullwood
Full route after doing section to cave five or so years earlier
with Fiona Fullwood
Neil McA 18 Apr, 2009 Lead rpt P1 only, which may be E3 6b?
with Josie kilner
P1 only, which may be E3 6b?
with Josie kilner
Hidden 5 Apr, 2009 -
Hidden 29 Mar, 2009 Lead dog
Hidden 18 Mar, 2009 Lead dog
Michael Ryan ??, 2009 TR
with Donna Claridge
with Donna Claridge
lukehunt 7 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S Rapped off from the cave - awesome crack
with John Strokes
Rapped off from the cave - awesome crack
with John Strokes
Ram MkiV 3 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S last route of the day, inspired to have a go mainly as practice for squamish. seconded al on his routes today too so was pretty tired on this and expected to really struggle but found it relatively ok which was nice. great fun laying one on for the top.
with Al
last route of the day, inspired to have a go mainly as practice for squamish. seconded al on his routes today too so was pretty tired on this and expected to really struggle but found it relatively ok which was nice. great fun laying one on for the top.
with Al
Brown ?Aug, 2008 Lead β
with Henry
with Henry
alaan 23 Jun, 2008 Lead Without the cheeky aid of a peg this time. Had a look at the roof but backed off once I got thoroughly sandy.
with Broom
Without the cheeky aid of a peg this time. Had a look at the roof but backed off once I got thoroughly sandy.
with Broom
goi.ashmore 19 Jun, 2008 Lead RP P1 only
with James Rees
P1 only
with James Rees
Stig 19 Jun, 2008 Lead dog
dominic lee 16 Jun, 2008 Lead rpt topped out.
with andy elliot
topped out.
with andy elliot
Hidden 9 May, 2008 Lead dnf
alaan 9 May, 2008 Lead O/S Just to the cave and cheekily stepped on a peg stub for the last move, so will have to go back at some point.
with Oli
Just to the cave and cheekily stepped on a peg stub for the last move, so will have to go back at some point.
with Oli
ajtay 26 Apr, 2008 Lead
Alex Mason 4 Nov, 2007 Lead O/S climbed first 1/2 poorly and cruised the crux. easiest 6b ever. Its possible, albeit tricky, to thread the peg at the crux with a normal dyneema sling, easier with a skinny one.
with Andy Reeve
climbed first 1/2 poorly and cruised the crux. easiest 6b ever. Its possible, albeit tricky, to thread the peg at the crux with a normal dyneema sling, easier with a skinny one.
with Andy Reeve
Toby Dunn 17 Aug, 2007 2nd
with JulesV
with JulesV
ksjs 13 Aug, 2007 Lead dog E36a version (only up to cave) surprisingly awkward - took me approx 7 gos before i reached the cave. nice climbing throughout. IIRC the peg is tricky to clip but the gear is bomber and nearby
with mark
E36a version (only up to cave) surprisingly awkward - took me approx 7 gos before i reached the cave. nice climbing throughout. IIRC the peg is tricky to clip but the gear is bomber and nearby
with mark
lukea 28 Jul, 2007 Lead dog
Tom Briggs 11 Jul, 2007 2nd
with Andy Cave & Ben Moon
with Andy Cave & Ben Moon
Hidden 23 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
feilx 9 Apr, 2007 Lead dnf
Hidden ??, 2007 Lead RP
Boy ??, 2006 -
Tom Briggs 24 Apr, 2005 Lead rpt
with Nic Sellers
with Nic Sellers
Gus ??, 2004 Lead Pitch one only, E3 6b.
with luisa giles
Pitch one only, E3 6b.
with luisa giles
Hidden ??, 2002 -
Hidden 12 Jun, 2001 Lead
Hidden ?Jun, 2000 Lead β
Neil McA 23 Apr, 2000 2nd rpt
with Andy Cave
with Andy Cave
sadams 26 Mar, 2000 Lead rpt
with unseconded
with unseconded
tlr ??, 2000 2nd
with Dave
with Dave
tuftynick ??, 2000 Lead 1st half E3
1st half E3
Jon Read ?Aug, 1999 Lead dog
with Dave Edmunds
with Dave Edmunds
jfletcher 8 May, 1999 Lead O/S
with Graham Parkes
with Graham Parkes
TBowell nee Holdsworth ??, 1999 -
Neil McA 10 May, 1998 2nd rpt Pitch 1 only
with Andy Perkins
Pitch 1 only
with Andy Perkins
Neil McA 17 May, 1997 Lead rpt First pitch only
with Silke Fortenbacher
First pitch only
with Silke Fortenbacher
Neil McA 8 May, 1996 Lead rpt Pitch 1 only (as usual!)
with Mark Wilson
Pitch 1 only (as usual!)
with Mark Wilson
ste_d 14 May, 1995 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 1995 2nd dog
Steve Crowe 1 Oct, 1993 Lead O/S 1 rest to clean rocks shoes on the section above the cave.
with karin
1 rest to clean rocks shoes on the section above the cave.
with karin
Neil McA 12 Jul, 1993 2nd rpt First pitch only
with Tom Lewis
First pitch only
with Tom Lewis
Hidden 27 Jun, 1993 2nd
Mike_d78 12 May, 1993 Lead O/S
with ste_d
with ste_d
Hidden ??, 1993 Lead dog
Rich Kirby 20 Sep, 1992 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 25 Jul, 1992 Lead O/S
with Gareth Parry
with Gareth Parry
Hidden ?Nov, 1991 -
Hidden ?Oct, 1991 Lead O/S
Hidden 13 Aug, 1991 Lead O/S
sadams 21 Jun, 1991 Lead
with Kev Mellieu
with Kev Mellieu
Hidden ?Aug, 1990 Lead O/S
phil64 ??, 1990 Lead O/S
RockPhoenix 1 Feb, 1989 Lead O/S
with Bruv Simon
with Bruv Simon
Hidden 22 Nov, 1988 Lead
phardman 16 Sep, 1988 Lead dog
with John Lloyd
with John Lloyd
julesmckim ??, 1988 Lead O/S As one long pitch. Got a bit scrabbly at the top of the finger crack but managed to cruise through the roof and find the best holds first go...great fun
with paul jenkinson
As one long pitch. Got a bit scrabbly at the top of the finger crack but managed to cruise through the roof and find the best holds first go...great fun
with paul jenkinson
Alan James - UKC and UKH 17 Sep, 1987 Lead Pitch 1 only
with amstel
Pitch 1 only
with amstel
amstel 17 Sep, 1987 -
Bruce Kerr 22 Aug, 1987 Lead
with Dave Simmonds
with Dave Simmonds
ajtay ??, 1987 -
with Various
with Various
AlexRenshaw 9 Sep, 1986 Lead
with Simon Donowho
with Simon Donowho
sadams 6 May, 1985 Lead dnf
with Chris Thwaites
with Chris Thwaites
andy gittins ??, 1985 Lead
Mike Owen 10 Oct, 1984 Lead O/S
with Joe Picalli
with Joe Picalli
Neil McA 20 Sep, 1984 Lead rpt Pitch 1 only
with Flog
Pitch 1 only
with Flog
Steve Lewis 14 Apr, 1984 Lead O/S
with Alun Richardson
with Alun Richardson
Hidden ??, 1984 Lead
DonnyDave 10 Aug, 1983 2nd to cave only
with Ian Freebie
to cave only
with Ian Freebie
Neil McA 29 Jun, 1982 Lead O/S Pitch 1 to the cave only.
with Ian Jones
Pitch 1 to the cave only.
with Ian Jones
Ian Jones ??, 1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
Robmwatt ??, 1980 -
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead O/S
Robmwatt ??, 1980 -
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
Al Evans ??, 1976 -
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 28
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 23
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set