Rockfax Description
A fine route which is usually climbed by its original direct start, the easier (HVS 5b ) left-hand version from the gully is equally worthwhile. Climb the groove to the roof, then traverse left to the finger-crack splitting the nose. Layback up to reach the crest of the buttress above. Finish up this, trending slightly right in a great position. © Rockfax

FA. Peter Biven 1956

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

CharlieMack 01/Nov/17 Lead O/S
with Joe Salter
Hidden 27/Sep/17 -
timrooker 20/Aug/17 Lead dog

pumped out trying to place a wire in the finger crack, should've just gone for it first time though as cam just below bomber and move not too hard. did the original start but with speedy's lanky beta felt more like 5a/b than 5c

with Matt Lyons
mattlyons 20/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with Tim Rooker
amccann 20/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Shaun H
bclifton 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/17 Lead
riff156 17/Jul/17 2nd

Did left hand start

with Dane
craig.potter 02/Jul/17 2nd O/S
Adam Long 24/Jun/17 Lead

First lead on codknee

with Char Williams
Hidden ?/Jun/17 -
Hidden 05/May/17 Lead
kermit_uk 29/Apr/17 Lead dog

Got stood on front slab grabbed block nearly came out in my hand, shat myself had a rest to sort myself then carried on. Punter.

tebs 08/Apr/17 2nd dog

Brilliant! Thought I'd done this cleanly before, but I hadn't, and still haven't. Set off on lead full of good intentions but still can't do the bloody move so let Steve do it rather than resort to aid. Resorted to aid anyway following. Reet hard.

with Steve
Flavio 26/Mar/17 Lead O/S
rajeshwarbisht 26/Mar/17 2nd dnf
with Flavio
Rory_Cummings_NI 13/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with Ian
Hidden ??/2017 -
Wizzy 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Brilliant route. Eases considerably after the start

eb202 14/Aug/16 2nd dnf
with Michael
Mike505 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Right hand start, made the move, placed gear, down climbed for a rest. When it came to making the move again I ended up cutting loose onto my left hand but managed to hold it. Eventually made it to the top clean!

ralphio 09/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Lower half went better than I was expecting but wouldn't have wanted to hang around too long.

with John work
Stroppy 07/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Sam Husband 06/Aug/16 Lead dog

Found crux quite easy but not enough endurance to place gear after and not enough balls to climb to easier ground! May just be sustained 5b. Will have another go when I'm back.

with Ed
Keith Swainson 06/Aug/16 Lead G/U

2nd go. Slipped off indefensibly, hand on the arete jug 1st time . Excellent, safe pump fest, thoroughly enjoyed it.

with Georgie
Georgie25 06/Aug/16 2nd

Annoyingly fell off the crux and needed and hand to get back on, great route.

crossleysm 30/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with rosh3000
Ed Babs 23/Jul/16 Lead G/U

Warm up flash pump trying to layback above the roof. Pulled ropes and found it straightforward.

with AlexD
AlexD 23/Jul/16 2nd
with Ed
melv 29/May/16 Lead O/S

Left hand start. Couldn't work out the E1 start. Still excellent climbing.

with Fi
Paul ablitt 08/May/16 Lead O/S

hvs start

with Sarah
pearson9596 08/May/16 2nd O/S
ian d f 08/May/16 Lead O/S
Neal Jobling 05/May/16 2nd

Left hand start

with Steve Lismore
max_chan 05/May/16 2nd rpt

HVS Variation

with Andy Prichard
Hidden 23/Apr/16 2nd dog
codenamel 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Jay Schofield 17/Apr/16 2nd dnf
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S

original start

with Roisin
xiangoh 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 30/Aug/15 Lead
Dominic Green 30/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 16/Aug/15 Lead G/U
Robin Nichols 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Left hand start.

with Roger
climberchristy 27/Jun/15 Lead rpt

glad to lead this clean after faffing at the lip in past. a great varied route. tough cruxy start.

with bencole
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
DanChad 27/May/15 Lead dog

Did the E1 5c start. My first E1 lead.

Chris Murray 27/May/15 2nd

Jibbed and came up the hvs on the left after Dan led the E1.

Hidden ??/2015 -
Matthew Ferrier 30/Sep/14 2nd
Dave Warburton 30/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Too hot

with Matthew
Nick1812P 09/Aug/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 06/Aug/14 Lead O/S
ashtond6 18/May/14 Lead rpt

incredible route!

James Oswald 17/May/14 Lead O/S

Very nice. I combined the HVS and E1 start in a way that felt quite hard and scary. Pulling over the little roof is great, not too bad when you know how.

with John Bramwell, Kyle Wood
Budge 16/May/14 2nd dog
with Ade
pie_eater_pete 05/May/14 Lead O/S
bwestwood 05/May/14 2nd
the power 13/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Left hand version took me 3 attempts haha

with deacon, chris
Stig 12/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Whoever thinks this is only a ** climb is off their head.

Hidden 12/Mar/14 2nd
RM199 09/Mar/14 2nd dog
Jonathan Hall 09/Mar/14 Lead

Good route and much easier than expected. Right hand start.

Hidden ?/Mar/14 2nd
climb the peak ??/2014 Lead dog
IanGilbertJones ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Ahab ??/2014 Lead O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
funsized ?/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Fi
mc fifi ?/Nov/13 2nd O/S
Pero 15/Aug/13 TR
Legs 14/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/13 2nd
john lynch 07/Jun/13 2nd
with ed luke
Climbster 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 05/Jun/13 2nd β

Did the LH start, want to lead the E1 next time.

domskezz 04/Jun/13 Lead

HVS variation, couldn't protect the start to my liking so opted out of tackling it. Great route.

with David
davidalcock 04/Jun/13 2nd

From the left. Lovely, interesting route.

with Dom
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead
Hidden 05/May/13 TR
sara n 05/May/13 TR
Hidden 30/Apr/13 Lead
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead
Sam Cooke 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S

HVS variant. Great moves.

with Jay Conlon
Jay C 06/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2013 TR
Speeddemonsi 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S

E1 version from the right, felt pretty steady at the grade.

ashtond6 02/Sep/12 2nd

hard but can be done - to go back and lead

snomonkee 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/12 2nd dog
Gudge ?/Sep/12 2nd O/S
SGD 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S

HVS version. I lead this after Rob backed off. really good moves. kinda wished on done the harder start. Maybe next time.

David Kay 22/May/12 2nd

Left hand variation.

with Mark Proctor
Graeme Hammond 17/May/12 Lead rpt

led and 2nded the right hand start before so did the easier left hand start this time. HVS 5b*** this way.

with Gavin Singleton
dan gibson 15/May/12 Lead O/S

rh start, difficult

with helen gibson
tebs 11/Mar/12 2nd dnf

Too hard for me today

with Jon
Hannes B 03/Feb/12 Lead dog
with Sam H
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Matt Cooke 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Rosh
tatz45 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Will Harris
al123 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S

"proper" right hand start. great moves and good gear.

Mattyk 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S

E1 direct - great once you commit to the flake. Place a cam and launch up the layback.

with John Marsham
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/11 Lead
Mike Hegarty 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Went the hard way..One cam under the roof but bomber..! Big move to get to the nose..Plenty off gear in makes a fun climb.

with Dave
Mike_Hayes 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
The Reaper 24/Jul/11 Lead G/U

Left hand start so HVS 5b

9fingerjon 21/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with Owen
Cake 21/Jun/11 Lead dnf

Oh dear. I did the 5c crux fine, I moved through the layback, I got a load of gear in the break and... my ropes were a total mess. Had to come down. Soo annoying

with Jon
jkarran 19/Jun/11 Lead dnf

Fell from the layback pumped, pulled back on and finished. Lame effort on a nice route.

with Simon
Jim Slater 09/Jun/11 Lead dog

Left-hand HVS, hung on gear to rest.

with Patrick Hogan, Jonathan Keates
max_chan 09/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Steve Carty
mikeyjbs 29/May/11 2nd O/S
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
riddle 28/May/11 Lead O/S
Coel Hellier 01/May/11 Lead
AlexRenshaw 01/May/11 2nd
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead
allyrocke 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S

From the HVS start, now regret not giving the E1 start a go!

Liam Ingram 23/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Left hand start. Very nice.

Graeme Hammond 11/Apr/11 2nd rpt

now certain this is better than moyer's buttress

MD 09/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Backed off left hand start

Hidden 09/Apr/11 2nd β
belay bunny turned bad 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with loundsy
Ollie B 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S

5c bit is over pretty quickly then is a romp. Really good climb btu was expecting more of a fight up it.

with M.Court
M_W_Court 02/Apr/11 Lead dog
Sam Ash 02/Apr/11 2nd
pmurdy 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S

HVS 5b indirect start from the gully on the left.

disturbed_one51 21/Mar/11 Lead dog

Pumpy! Did the right hand start and then had a massive gear faff on the lip which made me pump out and have to hang on my gear. More stamina needed

mwatson ??/2011 -
GuyM ??/2011 -
Brown ??/2011 Lead
with James T
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
joese7en 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Dunk-RB 20/Oct/10 2nd dog
Hidden 20/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead
mark20 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
bigdrew 25/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Mark R
Hidden 25/Sep/10 2nd
RalphC 25/Sep/10 2nd
with Ali
tedj234 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Kate Campbell
drcorbasisgod 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
simeclimb68 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
HimTiggins 17/Jul/10 2nd

Direct HVS variant, couldn't figure out how to do the E1.

with Bart
BrettB 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with tomas
tebs 17/Jul/10 Lead dog

Climbed this poorly. Had a cheeky rest on a wire in the layback crack. Massive flash pump placing gear here. Hard and sustained i thought, but maybe that was just the hangover talking. Rain shower half way up helped in that respect.

with Tim
mjeffery 05/Jul/10 Lead dog
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/10 2nd
garethb 19/Jun/10 Lead

HVS start from the left

with cheque
Hidden 19/Jun/10 2nd dog
thomasadixon 15/Jun/10 Lead dog

Got lazy an rested after the crux start.

Oliver Houston 15/Jun/10 2nd
schaff 05/Jun/10 Lead dog
with Tim
gordonday 13/May/10 Lead rpt
with clive
Hidden 21/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 21/Apr/10 2nd dog
Graeme Hammond 28/Mar/10 Lead O/S

(right hand 5c start) Thought the move to gain the lip looked impossible till I found the other hold. Didn't bother to hang around to place wires as I would have pumped out just an energy saving cam for the lay-back bit. Good climbing maintained till the top. Excellent and thoroughly worthy of its 3 stars in latest BMC/Rockfax guides and probably better than Moyer's Buttress. Also led right hand start on 07/May/15 with Chris Hindley and 11/May/15 with Neil Colquhoun an Pod

with Charles, Rob
Ketu 28/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Graeme H, Charles M
cem 28/Mar/10 2nd rpt
nickcanute ??/2010 -
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Different Steve 18/Oct/09 2nd rpt
with Carol Fowles, Steve Gray
Hidden 17/Oct/09 2nd dog
Hidden 27/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/09 2nd
john lynch 13/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead dog
Dave Mason 23/May/09 2nd O/S
with Adam Gill
Tony Holdsworth 25/Apr/09 2nd rpt

and Richard White

with Martin Haworth
Martin Haworth 25/Apr/09 Lead dog
with Tony
Hidden 14/Apr/09 Lead O/S
keith leonard ??/2009 Lead

HVS 5b start, went to far right after the crux.

eastley ??/2009 2nd
Hidden 24/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Pete Graham 21/Sep/08 Lead
with Chris Wall
climbergg 25/Aug/08 2nd
Tim M 25/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Was surprised to discover that the hardest route in the world is E1!

with Emma
Andrew Sloan 10/Aug/08 Lead dog
oi_now 02/Jul/08 2nd
with slim bert
andi turner 02/Mar/08 Lead
with Adam Long
Rich Guest 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Nearly lost it getting the lip. Heavy going through crux section

Hidden 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
alaan 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Grant
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
9fingerjon ??/2008 2nd O/S
with Neil
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 21/Oct/07 2nd rpt
with Ed Brown
Hidden 18/Oct/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/07 Lead rpt
dannyboy83 ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/07 2nd
Sankey 07/May/07 2nd dog

I was knackered before starting, but this is tough along the traverse, the traditional HVS 5b direct start would have been a better option for me!

with Luke
max_chan 29/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Chris
Hidden 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
DavidEvans 08/Apr/07 2nd
with R Smitton
Hidden ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 26/Mar/07 Lead O/S

pumpy then easy. good.

with Vash
Hidden 11/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Fraser13 ??/2007 -
Hidden 10/Nov/06 Lead dnf
Rob Grant 20/Sep/06 Lead
Luke Brooks 20/Sep/06 2nd O/S
feilx 16/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Dan Eastley
Hidden 05/Sep/06 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/06 2nd
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden 24/Aug/05 2nd dog
cem 10/Apr/05 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Dec/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Oct/04 TR
Obi-Wan is lost... 02/Jun/04 Lead
with Phil
bigphil 02/Jun/04 2nd O/S
with Toby
Hidden 27/Oct/03 2nd
Alastair Hudson 12/Oct/03 Lead
with Clare Young
sadams 28/Sep/03 2nd
with Eric Hildrew
lithos 29/Jun/03 2nd O/S
andybirtwistle 29/Jun/03 Lead
Hidden 21/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Ropeboy 23/Mar/03 Lead
Ram MkiV ??/2003 Lead O/S

did the RH approach to flake. got pumped attacking flake.

with Dan Holdsworth
Hidden 23/Aug/02 Lead
Mark Stevenson 29/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Loz Owen
Hidden 27/Jun/02 Lead
cem 23/Jun/02 Lead O/S

HVS start

Hidden 13/Apr/02 2nd
Different Steve ?/Apr/02 2nd O/S
with Rupert Holbrook
Hidden ??/2002 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/01 Lead rpt
mikej 14/May/00 TR
with Nick Salmon
Hidden ?/May/00 2nd
antroy 01/Apr/00 Lead
Roget 12/Mar/00 Lead rpt

Right hand start

with jon
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Ben
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
tompercy ?/Oct/99 2nd
Hidden 29/Aug/99 Lead
Hidden 26/Jul/99 2nd O/S
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/99 2nd
with Bill G
Hidden 16/Aug/98 Lead O/S
nickdonohue 26/Jul/98 Lead

excellent route; good moves at crux and beyond; good length

with Chris ?, Richard Jasicki, Kim Clark
Hidden 18/Jul/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/98 2nd
Bullybones ??/1998 Lead O/S
kato'sdad 22/Oct/97 Lead
RobSimmo 22/Oct/97 2nd dog
duncan 20/Jul/97 Lead O/S
chris sm ?/Jul/97 Lead O/S
with Dom Goodridge
Hidden ?/Jun/97 Lead
Daniel Wrightson 19/Apr/97 Lead O/S

with E1 5c variation start

with Olivia Horner
SR1970 ?/Mar/97 Lead O/S
martroberts ??/1997 Lead O/S
tlr 12/Apr/96 Lead
with Andy W
rurp ??/1996 -
BruceW ??/1996 2nd O/S

HVS variant

with Julian
Gordon Stainforth 16/Oct/95 2nd

By direct start.

with Richard McHardy, Jeff Douglas
Hidden 14/Aug/95 Lead
Gordon Stainforth 13/Aug/95 Lead

Hardest thing I'd led for years!

with John Cutcliffe, Mick--
Neil R 29/Apr/95 2nd
with Richard W
Bruce Kerr 11/Jul/94 Lead
with Robert Durran
Hidden 03/Jul/94 Lead
Hidden 26/Apr/94 2nd
Sime64 05/Sep/93 TR O/S

Original start HVS 5b

with Gill
Chris Reid ?/Jun/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/92 Lead
Stoney Boy 29/Apr/92 Lead O/S
with John Cordingley
steveriley ??/1992 Lead
WB ??/1992 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/91 2nd
Roget 06/May/91 Lead O/S

Left hand start

with colin, baccy
NickJH ?/Jul/90 Lead
with I Smith
goi.ashmore 26/Apr/90 Lead O/S
with Andy Joyce
RichardMc 09/Apr/89 2nd
with Dave Langmead
Hidden 07/Feb/89 2nd
Hidden 10/Apr/88 Lead O/S
Sean Kelly ??/1988 Lead

I am sure this was only HVS at the time.

with Alan Payne
Michael Hood 31/May/87 Lead
Hidden 27/Apr/86 Lead
Hidden ??/1986 -
uphillnow ??/1986 -

Done a few times. once where Pog lead it

sadams 06/Oct/85 Lead
with Aylesbury CC
charlesmfrench 19/Jul/85 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 15/Jun/85 AltLd
KRB 26/May/85 Lead O/S
with Neil Gregory
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Rob Davies ?/Jun/84 2nd

Possible to lean from L and place runner above overlap before doing RH start

Hidden ??/1984 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/83 2nd
Hidden ??/1983 -
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
mark-abz 20/Sep/81 2nd
with Pete V
Neil McA 18/Jun/81 Lead O/S
with Dean, Flog
Hidden 23/Aug/80 2nd
Hidden 18/Apr/80 TR
Hidden 12/Aug/79 Lead
Mark Kemball 21/Apr/79 Lead
rogerskews ?/Apr/72 -
with Various
clanger ??/1972 -
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 54
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 50
Votes cast 54
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set