12m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the square-fronted buttress direct with the crux passing the low bulge by a fingery stretch. Using either arete lowers the grade a bit, not a bad effort for an ancient Severe. © Rockfax

Ticklists

All trad climbs at Birchen Edge

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UserDateNotes
Graham Hoey 6 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: HVS 5b (if the gear holds), otherwise E1
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: HVS 5b (if the gear holds), otherwise E1
featuresforfeet 23 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Another vote for the cam not holding.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Another vote for the cam not holding.
MNA123 12 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: My 'carefully' placed freind 1 decided to rip sending me the 12feet or so onto the rocks below,resulting in me bouncing off one rock on my cocksix to another on my head (i dint have a lid on). it was a very painful second.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: My 'carefully' placed freind 1 decided to rip sending me the 12feet or so onto the rocks below,resulting in me bouncing off one rock on my cocksix to another on my head (i dint have a lid on). it was a very painful second.
tog (Donny) 17 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Just one hard move, which is well protected with (carefully placed) Friend-1. Nice route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Just one hard move, which is well protected with (carefully placed) Friend-1. Nice route.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 8 Sep 2nd
rirving 4 Jun Solo O/S Rope solo, snuck round the side for a rest
Rope solo, snuck round the side for a rest
MatthewK 30 May 2nd dog
with JasonK
with JasonK
JasonK 30 May Lead
with Matt
with Matt
Hidden 22 Mar Solo
Hidden 4 Oct, 2018 Lead G/U
Amy J 29 Sep, 2018 2nd
AlexBclimbing 29 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Climbed69 7 May, 2018 TR
with Simon Stokes
with Simon Stokes
Daveyc86 22 Apr, 2018 TR dog
JonoDHawkins 12 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S Been eyeing it up for years but nice little route with a bite at the crux!
with Alice, Meganhwclark
Been eyeing it up for years but nice little route with a bite at the crux!
with Alice, Meganhwclark
Fobbit169 1 Jul, 2017 Lead
DMC 23 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
MusicalMountaineer 18 Dec, 2016 2nd Great effort from Joe. Hard move. Used both aretes!
Great effort from Joe. Hard move. Used both aretes!
fuzzysheep01 18 Dec, 2016 Lead O/S Great wee route, good gear and one fab technical move. Didn't plan to but found myself not using the arêtes.
Great wee route, good gear and one fab technical move. Didn't plan to but found myself not using the arêtes.
Remyveness 14 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Sep, 2016 TR rpt
Hidden 21 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 26 May, 2016 Solo O/S
Budge 22 Apr, 2016 2nd O/S
with Ade
with Ade
Hidden 20 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
matt.stevenson 17 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
Amy Sears 17 Apr, 2016 2nd
Hidden 15 Apr, 2016 TR O/S
Alex Newton 10 Apr, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 10 Apr, 2016 Lead
ChrisVickers 10 Apr, 2016 Lead β
Naomi.P 10 Apr, 2016 2nd dog Jake went up and down a lot. Then I fell off!
Jake went up and down a lot. Then I fell off!
Jake Young 10 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S Happy to get this, genuinely only did it due to Naomi's encouraging words.... "Man Up" :P (no aretes)
with Naomi.P
Happy to get this, genuinely only did it due to Naomi's encouraging words.... "Man Up" :P (no aretes)
with Naomi.P
nick ferro 25 Mar, 2016 2nd
with Longsufferingropeholder, Oli Birkill
with Longsufferingropeholder, Oli Birkill
Longsufferingropeholder 25 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
marconi 6 Mar, 2016 2nd
kermit_uk 25 Jun, 2015 Solo O/S
Hidden 21 Jun, 2015 Solo O/S
Tcampbell390 7 Jun, 2015 2nd dnf
with cmars89
with cmars89
cmars89 7 Jun, 2015 Lead dog
PaulHermes 25 May, 2015 2nd
with Paul VCCC
with Paul VCCC
Felix Ottey 18 Apr, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 6 Apr, 2015 2nd
George Killaspy 6 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
B4tgirl 20 Mar, 2015 Lead RP Mr first E1. Fell off a couple of times at first as found it a bit pumpy placing gear in the first two breaks, then sorted the beta, got off it and did it smoothly ground up. Straight forward once you know how!
with Blueso
Mr first E1. Fell off a couple of times at first as found it a bit pumpy placing gear in the first two breaks, then sorted the beta, got off it and did it smoothly ground up. Straight forward once you know how!
with Blueso
Blueso 20 Mar, 2015 Lead β Used the left arete...didn't really help! Still, happy to take 5b for my first E1 tick.
with B4tgirl
Used the left arete...didn't really help! Still, happy to take 5b for my first E1 tick.
with B4tgirl
Zolly Whitaker 7 Mar, 2015 2nd O/S
laurence_falconer 7 Mar, 2015 -
Robin Nichols 2 Dec, 2014 Solo O/S No arete.
with Jemma
No arete.
with Jemma
loco wilko ?Oct, 2014 Solo
ralphio 23 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Quite pumpy placing gear so climbed down after placing the gear to protect the crux. Led clean without using the arête for the 5c tick. Crimps on the face are just big enough to haul yourself up. Definitely a good first E1 as very well protected around crux.
with maumau
Quite pumpy placing gear so climbed down after placing the gear to protect the crux. Led clean without using the arête for the 5c tick. Crimps on the face are just big enough to haul yourself up. Definitely a good first E1 as very well protected around crux.
with maumau
maumau 23 Sep, 2014 2nd dog
nick ferro 7 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Came down for some DEET before doing the crux. Crimps felt greasy so used right arete.
Came down for some DEET before doing the crux. Crimps felt greasy so used right arete.
Hidden 7 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
Radical-G 31 Aug, 2014 Lead RP
OllyT 27 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
nation1 27 Aug, 2014 Lead
Angus Taylor 26 Jul, 2014 Lead dnf too bloody hot!
too bloody hot!
Hidden 4 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
scott mayled 29 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Well over graded more 5a! Than 5c.
Well over graded more 5a! Than 5c.
Jonny Harrison 29 Apr, 2014 TR dnf
with Hugh smith and scotty maylead
with Hugh smith and scotty maylead
Jonny M 21 Apr, 2014 TR O/S
fatbuoybazza 21 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S With arete and some reach 5b is fair
With arete and some reach 5b is fair
Hidden 21 Apr, 2014 TR rpt
phildawson 13 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
with Magda Bo
with Magda Bo
James rogers86 ??, 2014 Lead Nice 5c flash.
Nice 5c flash.
adamashcroft 2 Jul, 2013 2nd
Andypeak 2 Jul, 2013 Lead
Dave Mason 11 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with Trev Tatler
with Trev Tatler
antdav 8 Jun, 2013 Lead rpt First e1
First e1
froglette 8 Jun, 2013 2nd
with John Proudfoot
with John Proudfoot
Hidden 8 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
gazfellows 2 Jun, 2013 Lead
with Nic
with Nic
cpoad 2 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S Used left arete
with Steve G
Used left arete
with Steve G
daviesp2 31 May, 2013 2nd
freemanTom 31 May, 2013 Lead A lot of up and down placing the cams. Guidebook says left arête in, I used it, felt easy for 5c
with Paul Davies
A lot of up and down placing the cams. Guidebook says left arête in, I used it, felt easy for 5c
with Paul Davies
Harry Thorpe 2 Feb, 2013 Lead O/S
with Paul Hazell
with Paul Hazell
deacondeacon 9 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
adam carless 15 Sep, 2012 Solo RP Tried this a few times on previous visits, finally got brave enough.
Tried this a few times on previous visits, finally got brave enough.
Wayne S 20 Jul, 2012 Lead
Vnockles 17 Jun, 2012 2nd
will_benfold 17 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
Thony 8 May, 2012 Lead O/S Without aretes. Slight wobble pulling over the crux. First E1.
with Charlotte
Without aretes. Slight wobble pulling over the crux. First E1.
with Charlotte
cammi 2 Apr, 2012 TR
Hidden 25 Feb, 2012 Lead rpt
Coops_13 25 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S
with Vybz
with Vybz
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Nordie_matt 28 Dec, 2011 2nd
with craig morrison
with craig morrison
belay bunny turned bad 14 Oct, 2011 Sent
with loundsy
with loundsy
spacey 10 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
with jo macey
with jo macey
Brian Rodgers 8 Jun, 2011 Solo O/S I was the only person at the crag at the time, which was both nice and a bit unnerving.
I was the only person at the crag at the time, which was both nice and a bit unnerving.
waynem1985 4 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with antdav
with antdav
antdav 4 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden 28 May, 2011 Solo
lozowen 24 May, 2011 Solo
emmarowe 2 May, 2011 2nd
edmitchell 2 May, 2011 Lead β Did the 5b arete
Did the 5b arete
stpauliblade 26 Apr, 2011 TR
Sam..Oliver 26 Apr, 2011 TR
Jokysparrow 24 Apr, 2011 Lead
with shepman
with shepman
shepman 24 Apr, 2011 2nd
Whealiebob 13 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S No aretes - thought it was quite gentle for the grade
No aretes - thought it was quite gentle for the grade
RHarding 5 Oct, 2010 2nd
Hidden 25 Sep, 2010 Lead
Hidden 25 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
peteJ23 20 Jun, 2010 Lead dnf Fell off which still hurts!
Fell off which still hurts!
Owen W-G 31 May, 2010 Lead O/S Half a star.
with Max
Half a star.
with Max
Dhcol 20 Apr, 2010 TR O/S 1 nasty move but a bit of nerve would give you a good first E1 lead.
1 nasty move but a bit of nerve would give you a good first E1 lead.
mic_b 27 Mar, 2010 Solo O/S
Daniel Wicks 21 Mar, 2010 Lead
with r@bag
with r@bag
r@bag 21 Mar, 2010 Lead RP
The Mountain Goat 21 Mar, 2010 2nd dnf
willson ?Jan, 2010 -
willson ?Jan, 2010 -
phil stubbs ??, 2010 -
with willson
with willson
Dave Warburton 11 Oct, 2009 Solo O/S Fluffable crux, slightly dirty top slab.
with LUUMC
Fluffable crux, slightly dirty top slab.
with LUUMC
maxkellock 8 Sep, 2009 TR O/S great first E1 climb Stretchy middle section
great first E1 climb Stretchy middle section
Hidden 7 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
rubygem 7 Aug, 2009 2nd
Milne 16 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S good moves and solid gear for grade. no use of either arete.
good moves and solid gear for grade. no use of either arete.
Hidden 16 Jun, 2009 Solo O/S
Ben_Bullbridge 16 Jun, 2009 2nd RP Fell from the hard left crimp onto the slab. Descended to the floor and repeated clean on second attempt.
with Milne
Fell from the hard left crimp onto the slab. Descended to the floor and repeated clean on second attempt.
with Milne
paul76 18 Apr, 2009 2nd
boulderholder 18 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S Got over the bulge with a struggle using the small crimp the blew the 5C by instinctively reaching for the arete! I'll take the 5B with the arete with a smile though. :-)
with paul76
Got over the bulge with a struggle using the small crimp the blew the 5C by instinctively reaching for the arete! I'll take the 5B with the arete with a smile though. :-)
with paul76
BicepAndrews 13 Apr, 2009 Lead dog
with Adam Self
with Adam Self
Hidden 21 Mar, 2009 -
Sidekick ??, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2009 -
tom.ireson 19 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
with Jens Verhagh
with Jens Verhagh
elCapitano 4 Oct, 2008 Lead RP
with Mac
with Mac
Andrew Barker ?Sep, 2008 Solo O/S
with Rob Richards
with Rob Richards
donkster ?Jun, 2008 Lead O/S Used the arete.
Used the arete.
Simon Davenport 11 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with Brian and Dave
with Brian and Dave
Chris wilson 1 Apr, 2008 2nd
mulletcocktail2000 1 Apr, 2008 2nd O/S
with john and chris
with john and chris
john lynch 9 Mar, 2008 TR
with rich armour, Bo Robertson
with rich armour, Bo Robertson
Hidden ?Feb, 2008 TR O/S
Pythonist 13 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S The arete is even harder to keep your toes off the your hands!
with Oceanic
The arete is even harder to keep your toes off the your hands!
with Oceanic
Oceanic ?Aug, 2007 2nd
Rampikino 22 Jul, 2007 Lead
with Cat
with Cat
rachelwheatcroft 11 Jul, 2007 2nd Had a couple of attempts at the crux.
with Marvino
Had a couple of attempts at the crux.
with Marvino
Marvino 11 Jul, 2007 Lead Hard to place solid gear then one good move over the bulge
with Rach
Hard to place solid gear then one good move over the bulge
with Rach
tallsop 11 Apr, 2007 TR RP
with andy
with andy
dicky79 14 Oct, 2006 Lead RP
with Pete
with Pete
Iggy_B 1 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
with Shane
with Shane
Rampikino 23 Apr, 2006 2nd
with MMC Various
with MMC Various
Hidden 14 Aug, 2005 Lead O/S
Alex Mason ?Jul, 2005 Lead O/S
crag_monster ?May, 2005 Lead
dannyboy83 ?Oct, 2004 Solo O/S
with SUMC
with SUMC
Adam Potter 22 Aug, 2004 2nd
Stefan 13 Jun, 2004 TR O/S
m675bowsl ?Apr, 2003 Lead O/S
fellgazelle ??, 2003 2nd
with Dave Fooks
with Dave Fooks
phardman 8 Sep, 2002 Lead O/S
with Teresa
with Teresa
Hidden 16 Jun, 2002 2nd
cem 20 Apr, 2002 Lead dnf
with James Gregory
with James Gregory
CrashMat Rob 4 Apr, 1999 Lead RP
ajoliver 29 May, 1998 TR
Hidden 22 May, 1990 TR
tapley 24 Jul, 1982 Solo
Mark Kemball 26 Nov, 1978 Solo
mikej 17 Apr, 1971 Solo
with E C/W
with E C/W
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 25
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set