Rockfax Description
Climb the square-fronted buttress direct with the crux passing the low bulge by a fingery stretch. Using either arete lowers the grade a bit, not a bad effort for an ancient Severe. © Rockfax

Ticklists: All trad climbs at Birchen Edge.

JonoDHawkins 12/Nov Lead O/S

Been eyeing it up for years but nice little route with a bite at the crux!

with Alice, Meganhwclark
tonto169 01/Jul Lead
DanChad 23/Apr Lead O/S
MusicalMountaineer 18/Dec/16 2nd

Great effort from Joe. Hard move. Used both aretes!

with Joe
fuzzysheep01 18/Dec/16 Lead O/S

Great wee route, good gear and one fab technical move. Didn't plan to but found myself not using the arêtes.

Remyveness 14/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/16 TR rpt
Hidden 21/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 26/May/16 Solo O/S
Budge 22/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Ade
Hidden 20/Apr/16 Lead O/S
matt.stevenson 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Amy Sears 17/Apr/16 2nd
Hidden 15/Apr/16 TR O/S
Alex Newton 10/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/16 Lead
ChrisVickers 10/Apr/16 Lead β
Naomi.P 10/Apr/16 2nd dog

Jake went up and down a lot. Then I fell off!

with Jake
Jake Young 10/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Happy to get this, genuinely only did it due to Naomi's encouraging words.... "Man Up" :P (no aretes)

with Nao
nick ferro 25/Mar/16 2nd
with Tim Bee, Oli Birkill
Longsufferingropeholder 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S
marconi 06/Mar/16 2nd
kermit_uk 25/Jun/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/15 Solo O/S
Tcampbell390 07/Jun/15 2nd dnf
cmars89 07/Jun/15 Lead dog
PaulHermes 25/May/15 2nd
with Paul VCCC
Felix Ottey 18/Apr/15 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Apr/15 2nd
George Killaspy 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
B4tgirl 20/Mar/15 Lead RP

Mr first E1. Fell off a couple of times at first as found it a bit pumpy placing gear in the first two breaks, then sorted the beta, got off it and did it smoothly ground up. Straight forward once you know how!

with Tony
Blueso 20/Mar/15 Lead β

Used the left arete...didn't really help! Still, happy to take 5b for my first E1 tick.

with Anna
Zolly Whitaker 07/Mar/15 2nd O/S
laurence_falconer 07/Mar/15 -
Robin Nichols 02/Dec/14 Solo O/S

No arete.

with Jemma
loco wilko ?/Oct/14 Solo
ralphio 23/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Quite pumpy placing gear so climbed down after placing the gear to protect the crux. Led clean without using the arête for the 5c tick. Crimps on the face are just big enough to haul yourself up. Definitely a good first E1 as very well protected around crux.

with Maumau
maumau 23/Sep/14 2nd dog
nick ferro 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Came down for some DEET before doing the crux. Crimps felt greasy so used right arete.

Hidden 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Radical-G 31/Aug/14 Lead RP
OllyT 27/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/14 Lead
Angus Taylor 26/Jul/14 Lead dnf

too bloody hot!

Mark Duncan 04/Jul/14 Lead O/S

No arete. Quite tough 1st part to be fair, using poor crimps and sloopers, gear good though and easier after that

scott mayled 29/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Well over graded more 5a! Than 5c.

Jonny Harrison 29/Apr/14 TR dnf
with Hugh smith and scotty maylead
Jonny M 21/Apr/14 TR O/S
fatbuoybazza 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S

With arete and some reach 5b is fair

Hidden 21/Apr/14 TR rpt
phildawson 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Magda Bo
James rogers86 ??/2014 Lead

Nice 5c flash.

adamashcroft 02/Jul/13 2nd
Andypeak 02/Jul/13 Lead
Dave Mason 11/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Trev Tatler
antdav 08/Jun/13 Lead rpt

First e1

froglette 08/Jun/13 2nd
with John Proudfoot
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
gazfellows 02/Jun/13 Lead
with Nic
cpoad 02/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Used left arete

with Steve G
daviesp2 31/May/13 2nd
with Tom
freemanTom 31/May/13 Lead

A lot of up and down placing the cams. Guidebook says left arête in, I used it, felt easy for 5c

with Paul Davies
Harry Thorpe 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Paul Hazell
deacondeacon 09/Oct/12 Lead O/S
adam carless 15/Sep/12 Solo RP

Tried this a few times on previous visits, finally got brave enough.

Wayne S 20/Jul/12 Lead
Vnockles 17/Jun/12 2nd
will_benfold 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Thony 08/May/12 Lead O/S

Without aretes. Slight wobble pulling over the crux. First E1.

with Charlotte
cammi 02/Apr/12 TR
Hidden 25/Feb/12 Lead rpt
Coops_13 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Nordie_matt 28/Dec/11 2nd
with craig morrison
belay bunny turned bad 14/Oct/11 Sent
with loundsy
spacey 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with jo macey
Hidden 08/Jun/11 Solo O/S
waynem1985 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
antdav 04/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Wayne
Hidden 28/May/11 Solo
lozowen 24/May/11 Solo
emmarowe 02/May/11 2nd
edmitchell 02/May/11 Lead β

Did the 5b arete

stpauliblade 26/Apr/11 TR
Sam..Oliver 26/Apr/11 TR
Jokysparrow 24/Apr/11 Lead
with shepman
shepman 24/Apr/11 2nd
Whealiebob 13/Apr/11 Lead O/S

No aretes - thought it was quite gentle for the grade

RHarding 05/Oct/10 2nd
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
peteJ23 20/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Fell off which still hurts!

Owen W-G 31/May/10 Lead O/S

Half a star.

with Max
Dhcol 20/Apr/10 TR O/S

1 nasty move but a bit of nerve would give you a good first E1 lead.

mic_b 27/Mar/10 Solo O/S
Daniel Wicks 21/Mar/10 Lead
r@bag 21/Mar/10 Lead RP
The Mountain Goat 21/Mar/10 2nd dnf
phil stubbs ??/2010 -
Dave Warburton 11/Oct/09 Solo O/S

Fluffable crux, slightly dirty top slab.

with LUUMC
maxkellock 08/Sep/09 TR O/S

great first E1 climb Stretchy middle section

Hidden 07/Aug/09 Lead O/S
rubygem 07/Aug/09 2nd
Milne 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S

good moves and solid gear for grade. no use of either arete.

with cooper
Hidden 16/Jun/09 Solo O/S
Ben_Bullbridge 16/Jun/09 2nd RP

Fell from the hard left crimp onto the slab. Descended to the floor and repeated clean on second attempt.

with Milne
paul76 18/Apr/09 2nd
boulderholder 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Got over the bulge with a struggle using the small crimp the blew the 5C by instinctively reaching for the arete! I'll take the 5B with the arete with a smile though. :-)

BicepAndrews 13/Apr/09 Lead dog
with Adam Self
Hidden 21/Mar/09 -
Sidekick ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
tom.ireson 19/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Jens Verhagh
elCapitano 04/Oct/08 Lead RP
with Mac
Andrew Barker ?/Sep/08 Solo O/S
with Rob Richards
donkster ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Used the arete.

Simon Davenport 11/May/08 Lead O/S
with Brian and Dave
Chris wilson 01/Apr/08 2nd
with Ryan, John F
mulletcocktail2000 01/Apr/08 2nd O/S
with john and chris
john lynch 09/Mar/08 TR
with rich armour, Bo Robertson
Hidden ?/Feb/08 TR O/S
Pythonist 13/Aug/07 Lead O/S

The arete is even harder to keep your toes off the your hands!

with Steve
Oceanic ?/Aug/07 2nd
Rampikino 22/Jul/07 Lead
with Cat
rachelwheatcroft 11/Jul/07 2nd

Had a couple of attempts at the crux.

with Marvino
Marvino 11/Jul/07 Lead

Hard to place solid gear then one good move over the bulge

with Rach
tallsop 11/Apr/07 TR RP
with andy
dicky79 14/Oct/06 Lead RP
with Pete
Iggy_B 01/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Shane
Rampikino 23/Apr/06 2nd
with MMC Various
Hidden 14/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Alex Mason ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with andy g
crag_monster ?/May/05 Lead
dannyboy83 ?/Oct/04 Solo O/S
with SUMC
Adam Potter 22/Aug/04 2nd
Stefan 13/Jun/04 TR O/S
m675bowsl ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
fellgazelle ??/2003 2nd
with Dave Fooks
phardman 08/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with Teresa
Hidden 16/Jun/02 2nd
cem 20/Apr/02 Lead dnf
with James Gregory
CrashMat Rob 04/Apr/99 Lead RP
with Nicky
ajoliver 29/May/98 TR
Hidden 22/May/90 TR
tapley 24/Jul/82 Solo
Mark Kemball 26/Nov/78 Solo
mikej 17/Apr/71 Solo
with E
11 users have this on their wishlist
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 25
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 23
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set