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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”
from 14/06/2023
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Rockfax Description
Begin just to the right of Meg's Got Leukaemia in a small corner. © Rockfax
FA. Mick Ward 2002.
Ticklists
Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon , Blacknor North Sport Climbs , Portland - 19/06/24 , Sportland 2025
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pottsy84 | 7 Jun, 2024 |
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βeta: Think it was on this rather than Meg - big loose hanging block creates a new crux to avoid it! Poor memory, but probably about half height, the crack behind provides an obvious layaway for the right hand, and the top of it is the obvious foothold to pass the section. Looked well used, and recently judging by the chalk, but a lot of movement - take care. Can be bypassed on the left, albeit with a slightly stronger move. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Think it was on this rather than Meg - big loose hanging block creates a new crux to avoid it! Poor memory, but probably about half height, the crack behind provides an obvious layaway for the right hand, and the top of it is the obvious foothold to pass the section. Looked well used, and recently judging by the chalk, but a lot of movement - take care. Can be bypassed on the left, albeit with a slightly stronger move. |
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| Hudders | 22 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: The first low roof at the low bolts appears to have come away at some point and there is a large loose rock which is a concern enough that I down climbed and walked away from it. It was very dirty to boot. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The first low roof at the low bolts appears to have come away at some point and there is a large loose rock which is a concern enough that I down climbed and walked away from it. It was very dirty to boot. |
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| FabioM | 15 Apr, 2019 |
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βeta: Not as nice as Meg's Got Leukeamia but worth a go. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not as nice as Meg's Got Leukeamia but worth a go. |
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| Barry Kerslake | 22 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: There is quite often a seagull nest in Aug/Sept just before the LO. Beware as you may come face to face with a gull chick as I did today at the last break which will end up with both you and the chick becoming rather scared. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There is quite often a seagull nest in Aug/Sept just before the LO. Beware as you may come face to face with a gull chick as I did today at the last break which will end up with both you and the chick becoming rather scared. |
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| John2 | 8 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: Pulled a solid looking hold off onto my face low down, plenty of obviously loose holds in the vicinity. Good climbing higher up though. Could do with a clean up with a crowbar. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pulled a solid looking hold off onto my face low down, plenty of obviously loose holds in the vicinity. Good climbing higher up though. Could do with a clean up with a crowbar. |
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| nick w | 3 Mar, 2006 |
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βeta: chossy and loose at bottom with clips from rocking blocks, lovely! | βeta? | |
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βeta: chossy and loose at bottom with clips from rocking blocks, lovely! |
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| Furzy Sleight | 11 Feb, 2006 |
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βeta: Have to disagree - thought this was an excellent, independent route, only a lttle bit grubby at start | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Have to disagree - thought this was an excellent, independent route, only a lttle bit grubby at start |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor North
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Underage
Grade: 6a ***
(Coastguard South)